Went out tues, a lil bumpy but easy 6 ft with bigger bombs rollin thru and only one other guy out.....YES!!!
Went out wed, 6 ft and glassy with more bombs and sneaky cleanup bombs comin in, pretty crowded but plenty of waves coming thru.....yes!!!
Went out today, 4 foot in the am and really glassy until the NW's picked up, lots of fun waves to be had and only three other guys in the water, YES x 3!!
So, in three days I've logged over 13.5 hrs of water time most in big surf, and with generally uncrowded conditions. I did more duck-diving in three days than pro'ly all winter long, lots of cleanups in this swell. I'm exhausted and feelin really lucky!!!! Hope some of u cats got on it.