the surf SUCKS

frickster

frickster

New Member
I often find interesting, the contrasts between the comraderie on non-surfing boards like this one, and the typical attitude of surfers about naming 'secret spots' (I know you are just kidding about the crap NJ spots that I mentioned). Here we are all trying to get each other to try out our favorite trails and there is no apparent localism -- hell!! everyone on here offers 'tours' of their 'home rides' to total strangers! Most of the time I go out surfing, I have to deal with getting snaked repeatedly by the locals who have no friggin tolerance for anyone else -- and G_d forbid you 'waste' their waves because you're not as good as them...
I'm not very good at surfing but I love being out there trying and it's great father-son time. I am totally stoked and envious of the better surfers and want to get better in the worst way. My dream is to paddle out at Sunset on the North Shore. I have been out in overhead conditions and almost drowned, so I am trying to be realistic about my surfing aspirations. Too bad I grew up in Brooklyn and didn't start surfing until ~5yrs ago...
 
stb222

stb222

Love Drunk
Jerk Squad
frickster said:
Here we are all trying to get each other to try out our favorite trails and there is no apparent localism -- hell!! everyone on here offers 'tours' of their 'home rides' to total strangers!
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Most of the trails we ride are on park land, hence "secret" trails usually don't stay that way for long but they do exist. I would say there is fairly stong localism also, just not like surfing. Try getting direction to bmx trails and I think you will find a similar vibe to the surfers.
 
jdog

jdog

Shop: Halter's Cycles
Shop Keep
stb222 said:
Most of the trails we ride are on park land, hence "secret" trails usually don't stay that way for long but they do exist. I would say there is fairly stong localism also, just not like surfing. Try getting direction to bmx trails and I think you will find a similar vibe to the surfers.
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Surfing is funny sometime.

Silly really.

Arguing over a missed wave or a secret spot while you live in crowded NJ?

Get over it.


I first paddled out in 1992. I went to manisquan since my friends went there.

I somehow got my leash caught around some dudes neck. It wasn't a great start.

Things are better but I still have my moments.

Nothing I have ever done has cleared my head the way a day the water does.
 
A

al415

Banned
I was in the Canary Islands in 1983 so I bought a boogie board. First day out I got "bumped" by something that was as big and grey as the camper we were staying in on the beach. That's my first and last surfing story.
 
MMuller

MMuller

Well-Known Member
Checked it around noon yesterday and was big and closing out too low tide. Got out of a gig last night after midnight at pier village in Long Branch and some guy was just getting out of the water! Full moon and flood lights on top of place lit it up. Amazing. I'm amazed at riding a bike in the woods at night, but surfing?
Today will be fun on a longboard, waist + as long as the wind doesn't kill it. I'll try incoming tide around 3.
 
dualfisted

dualfisted

Member
no sucking today

Caught Bay Head today @ its best. 3-4 ft, super glassy and tubing. The peaks were shifting around a bit, and had to avoid some closeouts, but it was really fun. Hope the wind doesn't kill it for the am.
 
dualfisted

dualfisted

Member
again today...

Went to Squan today (my home break), knowing the swell was decreasing and that the peak would amplify the swell. Scored!!! Surfed 2-4 ft bowls completely solo. Who ever gets the peak to themselves in good surf? Two awesome friggin days to be sure!!!
 
frickster

frickster

New Member
dualfisted said:
Went to Squan today (my home break), knowing the swell was decreasing and that the peak would amplify the swell. Scored!!! Surfed 2-4 ft bowls completely solo. Who ever gets the peak to themselves in good surf? Two awesome friggin days to be sure!!!
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Geez -- you are pretty hardcore to still be out there! My fullsuit is a 3/2 (not 4/3 as I mistakenly wrote earlier). I'll be lucky if I can get back out in May.
 
dualfisted

dualfisted

Member
not so core

frickster said:
Geez -- you are pretty hardcore to still be out there! My fullsuit is a 3/2 (not 4/3 as I mistakenly wrote earlier). I'll be lucky if I can get back out in May.
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I got an Xcel Xzip 3/2 this summer which is definitely as warm as most 4/3's. Also liked the Xcel so much, bought the 5/4/3 hooded and it's friggin awesome. Warm for four hours so far, definitely gonna be a good winter suit. This will be my first full winter of surfing in years, had been snowboarding insted, can't depend on good snow. Lookin forward to the fun!!!
There's more surf working right now.
 
clarkenstein

clarkenstein

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
JORBA.ORG
yo -

i'm totally confused by the forecast for 1/1/09. it looks like there is swell, but no period to push it (maybe???)?

wavewatch is showing significant swell heights, magic is showing swell, surfline says flat... anyone have any ideas? i'm trying to decide if i ride chimney rock tomorrow in the morning or hit a dawn patrol to bring in the new year.
 
dualfisted

dualfisted

Member
flatness

There was very little swell to begin with. Small yesterday, today is gonna be dead flat. Two days of blustery NW wind makes for zero surf, get out on the bike, or go snowboarding.
 
clarkenstein

clarkenstein

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
JORBA.ORG
dualfisted said:
There was very little swell to begin with. Small yesterday, today is gonna be dead flat. Two days of blustery NW wind makes for zero surf, get out on the bike, or go snowboarding.
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thanks - i just checked the webcam. total flatness. looks like wheels and dirt will bring in the new year.
 
MMuller

MMuller

Well-Known Member
Totally scored Avon today as sun was going down. Caught a right that went jetty to jetty, pumping down the line the whole time. Awesome. Gonna show some love to Harshorne/Huber tomorrow though.
 
clarkenstein

clarkenstein

JORBA Board Member/Chapter Leader
JORBA.ORG
MMuller said:
Totally scored Avon today as sun was going down. Caught a right that went jetty to jetty, pumping down the line the whole time. Awesome. Gonna show some love to Harshorne/Huber tomorrow though.
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right on! sounds awesome. sounds like some good stuff. when i checked the cam (i don't know why i did, other than to bring myself to a state of jealousy???) it look clean and super fun.
 
dualfisted

dualfisted

Member
SCORE!!!! again

I've been the big winner this month with solo sessions @ Bayhead, Mantaloking, JENKS and this morning @ Squan... Solo!!! I'm wayyyy back into the winter surf thing, hooked.
Squan today was four foot solid on the peak with overhead drops and real good power to it, as well as being super-uber glassy. I'm sad it's supposed to be flat again until tues, wed of next week with a weather system moving thru. However, I can pro'ly get back on the bike now though, cuz she's been overlooked lately in favor of surf and good snow.
 
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