So I figured I should add to my own thread on lubes. I have been using ProGold ProLink for several years. Prior to that I used DuMonde. This past winter I started to use DuMonde again, but feel it picks up everything on the trail. So I have been cleaning all the chains in the house and switching back to ProGold. But was curious as to what others are having good success with on their chains.
Chain lube????
- Thread starter Ron
- Start date
Tim
aka sptimmy43
Melting parafin wax onto the chain as @AndyJ mentioned attracts no dirt whatsoever...as long as you are riding in dry conditions. It's amazing how clean the chain, chainring, cassette, and jockey wheels are after a ride, and another, and another.
I tried wax on my road bike on the advice of @CrankAddictRich and I was impressed. Then I waxed the chain on my trail bike, which until a week ago I primarily rode at Hartshorne and Huber after work. Those parks are sandy and almost always dry. Again, I was impressed. Then I waxed the chain on a beater hardtail I keep around primarily for road use when it's shitty out. I did 1 ride in drizzle and wet roads in BIYF and was starting to get surface rust on the chain within a few hours. I recommend waxing but keep in mind if you ride wet trails or through water crossings it will become a burden to continually wax chains which leads to the downside of waxing. It takes a good bit of time, especially for the initial cleaning.
TimBay
Well-Known Member
Shit. I've noticed the buildup and have been getting annoyed with it. I'm getting low and might go with what you posted next. Thanks!
The Kalmyk
Well-Known Member
No really! Stop playing around!
Fantastic. Do you use the Cold weather bar oil in winter?
CrankAddictRich
Well-Known Member
As Tim mentioned earlier... I use molten speed wax. I've been using it on my road bikes for the last 4 years. It is cleaner, faster and my drivetrain has lasted incredibly long. At the end of last summer, I started waxing my MTB and gravel bike chains as well. It is definitely more work on the 'dirty' bikes because of the possibility of riding in wet or muddy conditions, but overall, I prefer it to using a traditional lube.
I switched from prolink to the finish line stuff. If been happy so far, cleaner chain and longer lube intervals
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
It doesn't repel water, but then again, neither does regular lubrication. "Wet" lube emulsifies. We've just been taught to wipe down a wet chain and reapply lubricant.
I know (and you do, too, probably) that those companies thrive on selling an "experience". The cleaning is unnecessary on a new chain. Plop it into the crock pot with the wax mixture, and the high(er) petroleum fraction lubricants float to the top.
Depending on your comfort level, you can skip the "cleaning" too. Knock off anything on the outside, and throw it in. When the wax hardens in the pot, turn it back on, just long enough to break the chunk free, then scrape the dirt off the bottom.
Powdered PTFE and molybdenum disulfide are readily available, by the way. You could have a lifetime supply for the equivalent cost-by-weight from MSW.
Tim
aka sptimmy43
All good points and I don't disagree.
JonF
Well-Known Member
One thing i've learned throughout all the snake oil evolutions in automotive, motorcycle, firearm, etc lubricants is that while some are clearly better than others and different environs and uses call for different types of lubes, the most important factor of all is ROUTINE MAINTENANCE. It doesn't so much matter whether you're using spent canola oil harvested from the local China Kitchen or the latest triple fractionated, fully semi-synthetic, ceramic filtered, distilled unicorn horn oil, *regular* applications are the real key there.
Unless it smells like fresh mint, then just go with that. #easybutton
Unless it smells like fresh mint, then just go with that. #easybutton
Not sure if someone has shared this yet, but cycling tips did a big story on lube testing. Not only to make you faster, but to reduce drivetrain wear. I personally use Squirt on my cross/mtb and it's worked really well in most conditions. https://cyclingtips.com/2018/03/fast-chain-lube-that-saves-you-money/
68nova200
Well-Known Member
My other hobbies occupy my time in winter. So no riding for me then. haha
JDurk
Well-Known Member
I used Squirt and liked it, however, found that I threw most of it away when left in detached garage over the winter. Liquids would separate and no amount of shaking would mix it.
Really... I got an industrial size bottle, which came with no cap, used a thumb tack. It's been in the garage all winter. The bottle is not clear, so I have no idea if it separated. Thanks for this heads up.
and this right here is what you are trying to postpone as long as possible by lubing your chain, front chain is a brand new sram x01 eagle (12 speed), back is a used (~1350 miles) x01 eagle chain (like for like) just to demonstrate how this goes.
FTR both are hanging off a finish nail in the ceiling joists of my basement, the dead chain measured .05 on my parktool wear gauge (both the go/no-go style and the one that actually measures)
FTR both are hanging off a finish nail in the ceiling joists of my basement, the dead chain measured .05 on my parktool wear gauge (both the go/no-go style and the one that actually measures)
Dingo
Well-Known Member
What does the new chain measure with the Park Measurement tool? I've had brand new chains measure anywhere from 0.0 to .50.
Dingo
Well-Known Member
Ordered 2 bottles from Amazon. Label says do not allow to freeze store between 41- 95 degrees. I'll keep mine in the house during the winter.