SURF does not SUCK

I was just taking a look, wind is def gonna be an issue in NJ. NY is prob a great idea.
 
Out in OG yesterday. Man, the sand bars have been totally rearranged. Was sitting out past the pier at mid tide and was able to stand up way out there. Lets see how this all works itself out. Water and air still warm though.
 
FFT said:
I was just taking a look, wind is def gonna be an issue in NJ. NY is prob a great idea.
Click to expand...

I didn't go but my buddy Tim (who you know) took the drive to Rockaway beach.

He said that there were head high lefts that were amazingly powerful.

Bummed that I didn't make the drive.:(
 
I would hope that some of you got down to my neck of the woods for these waves today. I know one who did. I rode past this morning on a pre-work road ride and the combination of sunrise and big waves was spectacular!
 
tough conditions. Big waves, big wind, big drift! Maybe OK for the 23 yr old man of steel. Maybe just before dark on incoming will be more managable. Could actually be flat by tomorrow!
 
suited up and went down to check. Freight train, big, low tide conditions. 10 guys out in Bradley and saw only 1 caught. Elected to wait until tomorrow. Imagine Loch Arbor was the place to be. Waves tomorrow for sure. Come on down.
 
4 awesome hours in the water today.

Saw some things go down that made me really think.. "this can't be jersey!"

Wave selection was key. You could get murdered out there.

Quite a few double overhead waves coming in made for an interesting paddle out.

Saw one broken board.

Sleepy time!
 
Allstar Jdog! Right on. Were you further south near Manasquan? I only saw it at low tide. High tide must have been spectacular.
 
I thought it was me thinking it has been epic this year since I live by the beach now I thought it was just because I check it out every day. I need to get a suit and get out there. I rode down and saw it today and was dumbfounded on how great it was. Need to lean and get the skills up to hit the big stuff. Anybody offering some advice or lessons? - I should have a suit and some booties, gloves soon.
 
I also should be joining the club soon. I picked up a suit and ordered gloves and booties! But it's sure to be a while before I show my face in any sort of group setting :rofl:
 
Sounds outta my league today. This swell is coming and going pretty quick right? is everything gone by the weekend?
 
Big surf is about watching what the waves are doing and trying to predict which ones will have a solid shoulder to not close out.

Yesterday getting out to the lineup was the hardest part.

It is scary as hell out there when you paddle over a wave and you are paddling for the sky on a 12 foot wall.

Once you commit and find the right slot on the wave it really is awesome.
 
Thursday Surf

Evening session 2p-5p was insane. 4-7ft, offshores, clean with lined-up freight trains. First surf in the new oneill mutant, what a nice suit! Yeah, that one hit the spot.:D
 
The Eddie Invitational

Will it run?? First time since '04. Coordinators say 40% chance it will run today, 80% chance it will run tomorrow. Biggest swell for Hawaii in recent memory???????
 
Wow again. I looked at it at high tide just after the wind went hard offshore. Couldn't believe how far outside it was breaking, even at high tide. But you needed a helicopter to get there. Temp supposed to drop big time from today's 65. Will try my new 5 mil tomorrow. Trails too wet to ride anyway.
 
super-duper. Surf if you can today. Still size, plenty of juice, fast rights. Toughest part was paddeling into the 30mph offshore wind. Once you were in though, the wind kept you locked into the face. Felt like you were in a wind tunnel. High is at 2:30. Will def break through high. Only factor is the wind is supposed to pick up! Maybe drying out Allaire before dark. Hmmmmm
 
This doesn't suck..

My buddy sent me this from cali yesterday.

77 degrees and super waves.

This shot was taken at campgrounds in Carlsbad. This is about 5 minutes from his house. This is where I usually go when I visit.

It is hard to judge the scale but I am sure this is bigger than head high.:cry:
 

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