Gas powered bikes?

clarkenstein said:
I’ve found it’s best to have a solid modern bike so you can tinker with the other.
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And once you're going, why stop at 2? Which reminds me, my friend on the left in the pic is buying a Bimota db2 from the same guy who sold me the db4!

The Bimota seller has access to non-ethanol gas right by his place in Albany. I can't find anything like it in NJ. My plan for the carb'd bikes is for them to spend the winter completely dry and pull the carbs to be sure. Which is ridiculous but I don't wax my bike chains so I have plenty of spare time. :)
 
michvin said:
Stabil (or similar) supposed to help to negate effects of Ethanol in fuel, no?
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It sorta works, but not really. It helps but not enough. Fortnine has a great video explaining how all stabilizers actually work. They all work a little differently.

My current vintage carb’d bike (1983 Suzuki SP100) starts on the first or second kick season to season. For prep - I run the carb dry, keep the tank full with stabilized gas, and change the oil and check the valves. Plug the muffler so no critters get in there and make sure mice don’t start chewing wires.

BTW - It’s actually not good to just idle the bike in the winter unless you get the engine to full operating heat for a bit. You can get all types of water condensation in the pipes and even in the valves. The H20 left after combustion needs to be in an engine hot enough to boil it off and keep it off, so just a few minutes of idling can be worse than letting it sit. If you choose to start it, go for a ride to get the bike nice and hot.

The winters are definitely the worst. I keep the engine together and just set expectations low for the first start in the spring. If it starts and runs well, it’s a major win. If it doesn’t, tinker time, but it’s not a bad way to spend the first warm days of spring in the garage.
 
michvin said:
Stabil (or similar) supposed to help to negate effects of Ethanol in fuel, no?
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STABIL has a specific product that contains additives to help with the ethanol, it seems to work IME with small engines, not sure how the bigger multi-stage carbs used in cars (and i assume motorcycles) would do with it.

that said, carbed engines have more problems with fuel than fuel injected engines because the fuel is able to evaporate out and leave residue behind(modern engines also use seals that resist alcohol alot better) A fuel injected engine any fuel evaporation is taking place in the tank, the fuel pump pressurizes the line and pushes all the air out, no air no evaporation (unless the fuel is leaking out somewhere).
 
clarkenstein said:
It sorta works, but not really. It helps but not enough. Fortnine has a great video explaining how all stabilizers actually work. They all work a little differently.

My current vintage carb’d bike (1983 Suzuki SP100) starts on the first or second kick season to season. For prep - I run the carb dry, keep the tank full with stabilized gas, and change the oil and check the valves. Plug the muffler so no critters get in there and make sure mice don’t start chewing wires.

BTW - It’s actually not good to just idle the bike in the winter unless you get the engine to full operating heat for a bit. You can get all types of water condensation in the pipes and even in the valves. The H20 left after combustion needs to be in an engine hot enough to boil it off and keep it off, so just a few minutes of idling can be worse than letting it sit. If you choose to start it, go for a ride to get the bike nice and hot.

The winters are definitely the worst. I keep the engine together and just set expectations low for the first start in the spring. If it starts and runs well, it’s a major win. If it doesn’t, tinker time, but it’s not a bad way to spend the first warm days of spring in the garage.
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100% agreed on the idling. Must be run up to temperature which brings its own set of problems when the roads are crusty with brine and it becomes impractical. I used to drain the carbs or run them dry, but noticed an incremental decay in idle quality and throttle response over years. Maybe not as much of a problem on singles or twins, but removing carbs wedged into 80's (or older) inline 4's started to get dicey as carb and air box boots got harder, more brittle, and more difficult to replace if cracked or damaged. Maybe that's why so many older bikes have the airbox removed and replaced with air filter pods "upgrade". PSA - It's also important to check the carb drains periodically as it's not unheard of for fuel valves to leak slowly and refill the bowls over time.
 
Effjay said:
100% agreed on the idling. Must be run up to temperature which brings its own set of problems when the roads are crusty with brine and it becomes impractical. I used to drain the carbs or run them dry, but noticed an incremental decay in idle quality and throttle response over years. Maybe not as much of a problem on singles or twins, but removing carbs wedged into 80's (or older) inline 4's started to get dicey as carb and air box boots got harder, more brittle, and more difficult to replace if cracked or damaged. Maybe that's why so many older bikes have the airbox removed and replaced with air filter pods "upgrade". PSA - It's also important to check the carb drains periodically as it's not unheard of for fuel valves to leak slowly and refill the bowls over time.
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I stay to the thumpers and twins. Hard enough to find parts for two cylinders, nevermind four!

I had that carb issue you mentioned. Major PITA. And I got the bike started, didn’t notice it, went for a short spin (on one cylinder) and the bike lost power a few miles from home. Lesson learned the hard way.
 
Patrick said:
Small airports have 100LL - got to withstand some lead tho.
just walk up to a self-serve with a red can and have at it.
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Unfortunately, my local airport doesn't have self-serve and won't put in in cans, even if you own a plane hangared there. In the end, it feels like less effort to just drain tanks and carbs completely and spray carb cleaner through them because my carb'd bikes are reasonably easy to work on and I'll be doing some projects anyway.
 
I hit 10 hours on this thing since I did a full ground up nut / bolt resto..

I am super close to having the carb dialed and I plan on advancing the timing to move the powerband hit more mid…

I am falling in love with this thing as it has to be the fastest most well rounded dirtbikes I ever rode.

2ED3EAA0-4EFD-41C4-A704-DBD846EB0314.jpeg
 
mfennell said:
Unfortunately, my local airport doesn't have self-serve and won't put in in cans, even if you own a plane hangared there. In the end, it feels like less effort to just drain tanks and carbs completely and spray carb cleaner through them because my carb'd bikes are reasonably easy to work on and I'll be doing some projects anyway.
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there are not many E0 stations in NJ, but there are some
 
grilledcheeseking said:
@michvin Fun stuff. You probably know, but my clif notes are: Slide back in the saddle to lighten front wheel, twist the throttle lots, and let the bike go where it wants. Gentle steering inputs only.

I was riding dirt bikes in sugar sand before I ever started riding MTB or driving, FWIW. I miss it!
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Thanks!! It is a very valid advice and that is what I am trying to do (started riding dirt this spring, really). Hardest part is to actually follow these guidelines because it is scary at first :) I feel I am getting better, though
 
slingblade_uhhuh said:
Don't know if its best to drop this link here or in the "e-bikes are a thing" thread.
The videos of Ken Roczen on this bike are worth watching. That e-motorcycle sound!

racerxonline.com

Ken Roczen Tests Stark Varg Electric Dirt Bike - Racer X

The German native won the Paris Supercross then tested the all-new electric dirt bike in Spain the following day.
racerxonline.com racerxonline.com
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Roczen's riding is so perfect. I've never ridden a motorcycle offroad but I watch a ton of the races and a lot of the Moto Academy Youtube stuff...wish we had some (legal) riding locally!
 
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