Ask an automobile mechanic.

Dingo said:
Yeah, but then you have to buy an overpriced replacment, or ride your bike to work.
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Well, I only drive the Suburban so I can transport bikes from my warehouse. Haven't really done that in a year and don't foresee the need until at least next season based on bike availability. I could really drive anything right now.
 
I had a 3/4 ton GMC pickup years ago that had a weird vibration. The guy I sold it to found missing/loose transmission mount bolts.
 
Bike N Gear said:
Well the last work performed by a dealer (twice) was rebuilding the transmission.
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80k is possible that motor mounts and trans mount might be worn, you can probably feel a slight vibration on the steering wheel when on idle, but at 80k even a drive shaft or transfer case can cause a vibration at highway speeds or under acceleration... Might want to check if the U-joints of your driveshaft are OK or if they have a fitting to be serviced with a grease gun. Even serviceable ball joints and tie rod ends may transfer road vibrations if you don't grease them... I do not have the car in front of me so I cannot really diagnose your issue... PS: run your hand around the tread of your tires to feel for any possible shifted steel belts, but that usually gives a slight wobble
 
The new Air Body Control Plus suspension system gets filled with nitrogen to keep optimum performance and help prevent premature wear of the air compressor, it is now a sealed system from which the compressor is only used to move nitrogen around from the central reservoir and to raise and lower the height of the vehicle and not like the previous system from which the air compressor had an intake to get air from the atmosphere and most of the time it used to suck down moisture and even water which ruins the compressor and the valve block. Story here is... body shop used compressed shop air with probably moisture to filled a sealed system and ruin the pressure valves of both front struts
IMG_20210513_134017768.jpg
 
GTCHAMPION1 said:
The new Air Body Control Plus suspension system gets filled with nitrogen to keep optimum performance and help prevent premature wear of the air compressor, it is now a sealed system from which the compressor is only used to move nitrogen around from the central reservoir and to raise and lower the height of the vehicle and not like the previous system from which the air compressor had an intake to get air from the atmosphere and most of the time it used to suck down moisture and even water which ruins the compressor and the valve block.
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Have to admit, that's pretty slick. I'm more than happy to have plain-old-steel springs/struts & shocks tho.

My 360 has some kind of adaptive shocks that don't seem to do sh*t except throw a warning message when something is wrong. Fortunately, there are enough DIY guys now that when I got the warning, it was worth the calculated risk of throwing a $200 part at it (vertical accelerometer in the engine bay) while I was doing valve cover gaskets.
 
GTCHAMPION1 said:
The new Air Body Control Plus suspension system gets filled with nitrogen to keep optimum performance and help prevent premature wear of the air compressor, it is now a sealed system from which the compressor is only used to move nitrogen around from the central reservoir and to raise and lower the height of the vehicle and not like the previous system from which the air compressor had an intake to get air from the atmosphere and most of the time it used to suck down moisture and even water which ruins the compressor and the valve block. Story here is... body shop used compressed shop air with probably moisture to filled a sealed system and ruin the pressure valves of both front struts
View attachment 157632
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We still have customers come in to have nitrogen put in their tires. We tell 'em we use 78% nitrogen. "OH OK"
 
Dingo said:
Uhmmm, plain ol air is 78% nitrogen. Tthat's what we have and it's free.
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Yes, being tongue-in-cheek.

Track w/high intensity braking is pretty much the only reason to put pure nitrogen in tires.

Moisture plays merry hell in suspension, so that's why it gets put in there.
 
Karate Monkey said:
Yes, being tongue-in-cheek.

Track w/high intensity braking is pretty much the only reason to put pure nitrogen in tires.

Moisture plays merry hell in suspension, so that's why it gets put in there.
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Yeah
pretty sure the soccer mom suv's are not getting tracked, but they still want nitrogen only in their tires
 
My daughter has a 2014 honda accord she inherited from my wife when she turned 17 this past September. Sunday while on line at the drive thru at Starbs it started smoking and knocking. I drove there, parked my car and drove it about 2 miles right to the spot that does all of our work. Originally diagnosed as bad alternator/belt, as the spinning side was almost falling off and belt was dry rotted. After new alternator install, they start the car and engine is still knocking. Initial second diagnosis is broken timing belt guides? Is this even a thing? Car has only 65000 miles and well maintained.
 
walter said:
My daughter has a 2014 honda accord she inherited from my wife when she turned 17 this past September. Sunday while on line at the drive thru at Starbs it started smoking and knocking. I drove there, parked my car and drove it about 2 miles right to the spot that does all of our work. Originally diagnosed as bad alternator/belt, as the spinning side was almost falling off and belt was dry rotted. After new alternator install, they start the car and engine is still knocking. Initial second diagnosis is broken timing belt guides? Is this even a thing? Car has only 65000 miles and well maintained.
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Don't they replaced those every 90K miles? I assume it is the 6 cyl as the 4 is a chain, correct?
 
walter said:
My daughter has a 2014 honda accord she inherited from my wife when she turned 17 this past September. Sunday while on line at the drive thru at Starbs it started smoking and knocking. I drove there, parked my car and drove it about 2 miles right to the spot that does all of our work. Originally diagnosed as bad alternator/belt, as the spinning side was almost falling off and belt was dry rotted. After new alternator install, they start the car and engine is still knocking. Initial second diagnosis is broken timing belt guides? Is this even a thing? Car has only 65000 miles and well maintain
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walter said:
My daughter has a 2014 honda accord she inherited from my wife when she turned 17 this past September. Sunday while on line at the drive thru at Starbs it started smoking and knocking. I drove there, parked my car and drove it about 2 miles right to the spot that does all of our work. Originally diagnosed as bad alternator/belt, as the spinning side was almost falling off and belt was dry rotted. After new alternator install, they start the car and engine is still knocking. Initial second diagnosis is broken timing belt guides? Is this even a thing? Car has only 65000 miles and well maintained.
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2014 Honda Accord 4 cylinder has NO timing belt, it's probably the 2.4 littler K24 motor, the V6 does have a timing belt which is due every 105k miles and I seen those belts coming out like new at 130k, there are no belt guides on Hondas it's all pulleys. Knocking could be bad gas/water, but smoking? Make sure to check the oil level and it's NOT overfilled. There is so much to see with the car but start with the simple stuff. What's the color of the smoke? White? Blue? Does the tailpipe smell like fuel? Hard to see a Honda with low miles has that kind of problem
 
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walter said:
Car has only 65000 miles and well maintained.
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7k rpm neutral drops might be the problem.
check for melted rubber in the wheel wells.

bad knock sensor? bad crank sensor? partially clogged injector?
why isn't the computer telling them what is wrong?

new bike.
:D
 
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