Ask an automobile mechanic.

Dingo said:
Not really a hack. The air chisle has bailed out a lot of mechanics when backed into a corner.
Desperate times call for desperate measures
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Specifically the not-a-breaker bar. And that socket would split If the hinge didn't break first. Wonder if it was a 12 point socket?
 
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Wow - my brake idiot light came on in the Metro.
I believe it means, hey idiot, can you please take care of your car?

1619716366516.png

In parasitic drain news, it seems to have resolved when i removed the SXM add-on to the radio.
Now between .01-02 amps.

1619716435829.png

Incredibly, I had a 194 in my toolbox. hopefully that was the right bulb. I can't find the spec in the guide, or read it off the blown bulb.

1619716529459.png

Now to the question - i'm not sure the gearbox has been topped-off in the last 15 years.
around 9 second in, i press on the clutch, then let it out, repeat. Probably lack of maintenance?

Neutral noise!.m4a

drive.google.com drive.google.com
 
Patrick said:
Wow - my brake idiot light came on in the Metro.
I believe it means, hey idiot, can you please take care of your car?

View attachment 156683

In parasitic drain news, it seems to have resolved when i removed the SXM add-on to the radio.
Now between .01-02 amps.

View attachment 156685

Incredibly, I had a 194 in my toolbox. hopefully that was the right bulb. I can't find the spec in the guide, or read it off the blown bulb.

View attachment 156686

Now to the question - i'm not sure the gearbox has been topped-off in the last 15 years.
around 9 second in, i press on the clutch, then let it out, repeat. Probably lack of maintenance?

Neutral noise!.m4a

drive.google.com drive.google.com
Click to expand...
200mA is still too much , but I wouldn't trust that meter....
 
Patrick said:
Wow - my brake idiot light came on in the Metro.
I believe it means, hey idiot, can you please take care of your car?

View attachment 156683

In parasitic drain news, it seems to have resolved when i removed the SXM add-on to the radio.
Now between .01-02 amps.

View attachment 156685

Incredibly, I had a 194 in my toolbox. hopefully that was the right bulb. I can't find the spec in the guide, or read it off the blown bulb.

View attachment 156686

Now to the question - i'm not sure the gearbox has been topped-off in the last 15 years.
around 9 second in, i press on the clutch, then let it out, repeat. Probably lack of maintenance?

Neutral noise!.m4a

drive.google.com drive.google.com
Click to expand...
Oww, my ear. Do not listen on work headset.

Drain and fill with Lucas, lol.
 
Peeling off cheap tar deadener and cleaning with degreaser and spirits is not exciting. But I hope to get the new stuff on this weekend. Also top cylinder rams are a pita to remove if you don't want to disassemble the whole top mech. Got good instructions from firstgenfirebird on a rebuild. If I can find those green Teflon o-rings, hope to get them done next week. I hear it's tricky bleeding the system as well so wish me luck. @UtahJoe was right about this being a journey even though I'm not tearing down engines or rebuilding a trans.
PXL_20210505_214446688.jpgPXL_20210505_215213431.jpg
 
JerseyPete said:
Is it possible that the springs are shifting position when under sudden load? There is no way to verify that without having to jack the car and suddenly let it down to see if it replicates it.
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Spoke to a tech at Speedtech earlier this week and these are his suggestions. He confirmed the clunk is not normal. One positive was that the whine from the differential is normal with aftermarket Fords.
1) check that the shock is not bottoming out (need to install a temp o-ring to mark the position)
2) play with the rebound and compression (should be easy like mtb forks right)
3) make sure there is no contact with the exhaust (will re examine for obvious marks)
4) get the trailing arms close to level with the ground (this will require lengthening the arm adjustments, I can try adjusting from the coil overs but doesn't seem like I have more than an inch to play with)
PXL_20210426_212233609.jpg
 
qclabrat said:
Spoke to a tech at Speedtech earlier this week and these are his suggestions. He confirmed the clunk is not normal. One positive was that the whine from the differential is normal with aftermarket Fords.
1) check that the shock is not bottoming out (need to install a temp o-ring to mark the position)
2) play with the rebound and compression (should be easy like mtb forks right)
3) make sure there is no contact with the exhaust (will re examine for obvious marks)
4) get the trailing arms close to level with the ground (this will require lengthening the arm adjustments, I can try adjusting from the coil overs but doesn't seem like I have more than an inch to play with)
View attachment 157162
Click to expand...
How many miles has the car been driven with the mods? I wonder if it is something that needs to be bedded in and will go away.
Otherwise, I don't know what to do. In the past, I would do a tear down of the suspension looking for anything and hoping that it goes away with reassembly.
 
JerseyPete said:
How many miles has the car been driven with the mods? I wonder if it is something that needs to be bedded in and will go away.
Otherwise, I don't know what to do. In the past, I would do a tear down of the suspension looking for anything and hoping that it goes away with reassembly.
Click to expand...
About 6k, should be bedded but if I can't get it figured out by summer will go to a pro. Wife wants me the send the car in for the remainder of the restore but what fun is that. Would have just got a Porsche if I wanted to go that route.
 
Working on the 'too' high pedal height and I'm having trouble with the adjustment. Note the pedal is about 8 inches from the floor, which is at least 3 inches too high.
PXL_20210511_003950558.jpg

Removed the clevis mounted to the brake pedal arm to back in the pushrod but looks to be too long. Seems like I'll need to replace the rod or cut it shorter. Are these the only options?
PXL_20210511_010534364.jpg
 
qclabrat said:
Working on the 'too' high pedal height and I'm having trouble with the adjustment. Note the pedal is about 8 inches from the floor, which is at least 3 inches too high.
View attachment 157483

Removed the clevis mounted to the brake pedal arm to back in the pushrod but looks to be too long. Seems like I'll need to replace the rod or cut it shorter. Are these the only options?
View attachment 157484
Click to expand...
Yeah, looks like you need to cut it. There is no adjustment on the other side of the rod, correct?
 
Drill another hole in the arm of the pedal?

how far off is it if you spin it all the way on? maybe even remove the jam nut,
cause it isn't doing anything.?

5" of pedal movement isn't 5" of adjustment up there.

qclabrat said:
Are these the only options?
Click to expand...

different brake pedal with more options?

please order new pad for pedal.


also - how much travel is there before it starts to bite? wouldn't want to lower it too far ;)
 
GSTim said:
Yeah, looks like you need to cut it. There is no adjustment on the other side of the rod, correct?
Click to expand...
Can't get the rod out as the arm is blocking the clevis. Do I remove the arm hinge bolt or take off from the booster and master cylinder?
 
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