one piece crank
Well-Known Member
Hence the silicone fluid. In theory, once and done.You need to warranty sram levers every 2 years anyways, so....
Hence the silicone fluid. In theory, once and done.You need to warranty sram levers every 2 years anyways, so....
Glazed? Here's a picture of the resin pads I removed yesterday...Yes, bedding in the brakes will have a major impact on how they perform. You may have done it accidentally with your Shimano brakes...there's a pretty good chance you glazed your pads. Did they look like this when you removed them?
I think you are buying pads for the wrong reason if color is part of the reasons (laughing with you, not at you)By the way, I like that red color of sram semi-metalic pads..got that racy Ferrari look.
View attachment 174434
Just to get the whole bed-in process clear, I understand a failure to bed-in brakes results in temporary substandard performance until they are bed-in through some riding with front end pointed down and liberal use of brakes, correct? Or is there a permanent effect?
Would think that would be easy to diagnose for the front wheelWhy does this picture look like you're riding an XC bike? 99% chance the brake is locking up immediately and that tire is just sliding.
1. I also pick my sealant based on color.I think you are buying pads for the wrong reason if color is part of the reasons (laughing with you, not at you)
You will see a few different instructions on how to bed-in pads to rotors, however you can do the "ride at a moderate pace" and apply brakes until you are almost stopped but release before you completely stop. Do this like 10 times. This is to avoid pad material being unevenly distributed on the rotors. Even with that, I find that pads really don't feel good until sometimes during your first ride. If by the end of your first they aren't grabbing, you can start over by cleaning your rotors with alcohol and starting the process again.
Also, did we already discuss if the calipers are adjusted properly? If not, that can lead to poor performance. This included checking that all 4 pistons are protruding at the same times when depressing the lever.
Indeed. I self-diagnose this hypothesis as false. Also these are trail tires on the photo...Would think that would be easy to diagnose for the front wheel
Indeed. I self-diagnose this hypothesis as false. Also these are trail tires on the photo...
Yes, you are undoing the bedding process by doing that. The only time I clean my rotors is when I put on new pads or in the odd event that they were contaminated by oil somehow (which has never happened). If for some reason you want to clean your rotors, you should sand the pad at the same time. Maybe there is a different process for organic pads but I can’t speak to that as I always use semi metallic.1. I also pick my sealant based on color.
2. I wipe the rotors with isopropyl alcohol as part of every bike clean. Is that a bad thing? E.g. do I want even distribution of pad material which I "reset" with each clean?
Pardon ignorant questions. I am always amazed how deep the rabbit hole goes with some of these simple-in-appearance MTB topics...
Pirelli Scorpion Trail M - not much amusement there, methinks.Define "Trail Tire" for our amusement please.
I wasn't entirely serious with that comment. I thought to be consistent with the idea of picking pads based on color.Just curious, what color options are available for sealant? Aren't they all a shade of white. My head is already spinning from all the previous comments in this thread.
I guess we might have stumbled upon a potential reason for poor braking performance. Yay, maybe I don't need to replace the brakes.Yes, you are undoing the bedding process by doing that. The only time I clean my rotors is when I put on new pads or in the odd event that they were contaminated by oil somehow (which has never happened). If for some reason you want to clean your rotors, you should sand the pad at the same time. Maybe there is a different process for organic pads but I can’t speak to that as I always use semi metallic.
Sealant based on color? That’s a new one…
I wouldn’t say that. I have shimano brakes on previous bikes but my last 2 builds Ive used Magura. They are as solid and well engineered as any other I have ever used and bleeding them is simple and quick. Reading this thread, I’ve got to agree with previous posters, I dont think it’s a model or brand issue. I think it’s a setup issue.But either of these two seem better than alternatives like Hope or Magura.
Can you bleed mine, I really like them but can't get a bleed to hold. I have tried I have had shops try just won't hold. I should probably replace the piston seals to make sure.I wouldn’t say that. I have shimano brakes on previous bikes but my last 2 builds Ive used Magura. They are as solid and well engineered as any other I have ever used and bleeding them is simple and quick. Reading this thread, I’ve got to agree with previous posters, I dont think it’s a model or brand issue. I think it’s a setup issue.
After shipping one of my bikes across country with some rough handling I noticed that I had a leak at the brake line- lever interface. I was loosing my bite every few weeks even with rebleeding. I cut off the last inch and resealed the connection and it hasn’t been a problem since. If you have the room to do so, I would start with resealing the ends of the brake lines and re-bleeding. I would do that before the piston seals. Not saying they’re bulletproof, just think they’re as good as the others. To me all else seems like preference.Can you bleed mine, I really like them but can't get a bleed to hold. I have tried I have had shops try just won't hold. I should probably replace the piston seals to make sure.