Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
You sir are a genius! I'm going to mount a leaf blower on the trance.If you’re building a resistance trainer great! If you going uphill maybe mount it the other way round.
You sir are a genius! I'm going to mount a leaf blower on the trance.If you’re building a resistance trainer great! If you going uphill maybe mount it the other way round.
leaves are everywhere, is this a bad idea?
This is in the bagYep, thanks again for the gift. Also have a blue Endless cog, but black single ring. The bright blue does look good with the matte black. I'd like to add one more blue piece like a saddle.
The Trans Am will have a green, red theme. Will be looking for red bars after dialing in the cockpit
I don't know about now, but in the late 80s we always shot wd40 in the steel tubes since we only had one bike and was ridden in all conditions.
found this on the Seven Cycles website:
Protecting the Inside of Your Frame
A rust inhibitor such as Frame Saver™ or Boeshield T-9™ is the very best defense against rust. We strongly recommend applying a rust inhibitor to the inside of your frame at least once a season; however, the more you ride in wet conditions, the more applications we suggest. It is not possible to apply rust inhibitor too often or too liberally.
Surly:
Apply Rust Inhibitor To The Insides Of The Tubes
The outside of your frame is covered with a tough coat of paint. Even when you get dings in the paint, rust never gets too far because the surface has a chance to dry, so you don’t really even need to touch up scratches (of course, if you leave it outside under a tarp, it’s going to rust more than if you get it out and ride it). The inside of the frame tubes, however, are a rust breeding environment. Water gets inside your frame. It does. It can seep into the smallest places, like down your seat tube as water sprays up from your wheel.
See the little holes the inside of your chainstays? They’re there to allow gasses to release when the frame is being welded, but they also serve to allow some airflow in the tubing. That’s great, but it isn’t enough. It’s a really good idea to coat the insides of the tubes with some kind of protectant. This is best done, obviously, when the frame is still naked, without any components installed. After the initial frame prep, get yourself some JP Weigle Frame Saver or motor fogging oil or boiled linseed oil. Any of these are a kind of sticky oil that coat the insides of the tubes and prevent rust from starting. Frame Saver is a bit toxic, as it comes in an aerosol can, but it has a spray nozzle that lets you easily get into the nooks and crannies on your frame and comes with complete instructions. One can should let you do 3 or 4 frames on average. But whatever you use, go one tube at a time. Spray some in according to the instructions (or a little more than you think you need) and roll the frame around so it coats the entire inside surface. Make sure you remember every tube , including the head tube and fork legs. Let it air out and gel up for a day or so, then clean up any extra on the outside of the frame. Add a light coat of grease to the BB threads, the ends and inside of the head tube, and the seat tube, then install your parts and go ride.
Finally got a can of Framesaver for the steel bikes. In the distant past I've used linseed oil and WD40 on the inside of tubes, but never JPWeigle.
It seems to be in between the linseed and WD40 in terms of viscosity but needs a drying period (24 hrs) unlike the other products. You're also suppose to avoid getting it in the BB threads. So how do you treat the BB area which is one of areas of the bike most susceptible to rust? what about the seat tube area, droppers are sensitive to over tightening, wonder if the coat of Framesaver will cause an issue?
a can is good for 3-4 frames so some other frames will get a treatment after the TransAm
That's what I did for the threads before applyinggrease
That's what I did for the threads before applying
Maybe it's time to get your fork serviced?I hunted down an annoying drive train noise that would only surface after about 40 minutes of riding. It Sounded like fluid being sucked up through a tiny vacuum. It would happen when I was mainly going uphill. Anyone want to guess at what it was?
I hunted down an annoying drive train noise that would only surface after about 40 minutes of riding. It Sounded like fluid being sucked up through a tiny vacuum. It would happen when I was mainly going uphill. Anyone want to guess at what it was?
I hunted down an annoying drive train noise that would only surface after about 40 minutes of riding. It Sounded like fluid being sucked up through a tiny vacuum. It would happen when I was mainly going uphill. Anyone want to guess at what it was?
^^^^This is the correct answer.water bottle making noise from the change in temp?
Nope..wasn't the suspension in anyway, but it sure made me think it was...Maybe it's time to get your fork serviced?
If it's a suspension fork...
A slurppy stuck in the cassette?
Nope, sounded like fluid and air being sucked up by a syringe.^^^^This is the correct answer.
Were you at chimney Rock last Saturday, the turquoise yeti looks familiarDad commented, I've never seen your bikes so dirty for so long. So I took some time and cleaned the new and the old yeti, both View attachment 59257 overdue.
i havent been to CR since the beginning of the summer. i want to get back, i would have gone today but i base my CR report on 6MR reports. so i just ran allaire since you could ride that in a downpour and be ok.Were you at chimney Rock last Saturday, the turquoise yeti looks familiar