Tales of a Terrible Bike Mechanic
- Thread starter BigDB67
- Start date
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
that's why I've saved two sets of 27" aluminum hoops for my old Japanese frames
just realize you'll likely need to coldset the frame with some 2x4s and get some long reach brakes
The only reason IMO to go 700c is if you can't deal with a 5 or 6 speed freewheel. Also they are a bitch to remove even if you have the right key.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
BigDB67
Well-Known Member
I was going to try this technique to spread the frame:
As for brakes I was going to pick these up to accomadate the longer reach with 700c wheels: Tektro R559 Long Reach Road Calipers Silver 55-73mm (https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Reach...7-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop)
Would that combo work?
BigDB67
Well-Known Member
Can you see the pictures?!? I can see them on my phone and computer!
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
I was going to try this technique to spread the frame:
As for brakes I was going to pick these up to accomadate the longer reach with 700c wheels: Tektro R559 Long Reach Road Calipers Silver 55-73mm (https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Reach...7-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop)
Would that combo work?
They are a good match, I'd just caution from spending too much money though
There's zero ROI in refurbishing old bikes, I spent about 20 years doing this and you never come close to ahead. Since this is a lower end bike, I'd suggest getting cheaper parts. The R559 brakes are more worthy of the higher end Bridgestones, Miyatas, Lotus, etc
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
still no, same issue as Jmanic posted
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
@BigDB67 no need to buy the brakes until you settle on a wheel size; you have to measure from the brake mounting hole to the braking track on the wheel to get the value you need.
If you don't want to change wheel size (and why not? You can fit a larger diameter tire in with 700), Panaracer and Continental still make good 27" tires. The era of good 27" rims is long over, but you can still get basic aluminum extrusions from Weinemann and a few others, that will be vastly better than the rims you have. If you build your own wheels, the is no reason you can't use modern hubs and 27" rims, for maximum retrogrouch-ness.
Whatever you do, new calipers will be a vast improvement over the ones that are likely on there. I agree with @qclabrat , though. I would buy a basic set of 27" aluminum wheels, get some Panaracer Paselas, and a couple of new brakes of appropriate reach, in addition to whatever else (paint, polish, etc) you are going to do to the frame. Wheel building is a great skill to learn, but you will never come out ahead vs the same thing pre-built.
If you don't want to change wheel size (and why not? You can fit a larger diameter tire in with 700), Panaracer and Continental still make good 27" tires. The era of good 27" rims is long over, but you can still get basic aluminum extrusions from Weinemann and a few others, that will be vastly better than the rims you have. If you build your own wheels, the is no reason you can't use modern hubs and 27" rims, for maximum retrogrouch-ness.
Whatever you do, new calipers will be a vast improvement over the ones that are likely on there. I agree with @qclabrat , though. I would buy a basic set of 27" aluminum wheels, get some Panaracer Paselas, and a couple of new brakes of appropriate reach, in addition to whatever else (paint, polish, etc) you are going to do to the frame. Wheel building is a great skill to learn, but you will never come out ahead vs the same thing pre-built.
BigDB67
Well-Known Member
Project Kabuki Begins....
I began disassembling the Kabuki this week and everything went smoothly until the crankset. Here is where i earned the title of Terrible Bike Mechanic.
The i was able to remove the non drive side crankarm bolt after a wd40 overnight soak. The drive side would not budge. I boight some liquid penetrating oil and gave that side an overnight soak as well. To no avail, it was STUCK. I fired up the impact wrech and completely stripped the crank arm bolt. To add insult to injury, i sawed off the chainring.
Anyone have any ideas how to get this stubnorn crankset and bottom bracket out?
http://i.imgur.com/uEpiGC2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0Fizq1L.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dw34pz4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j1ImdMv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nXX53vW.jpg
I began disassembling the Kabuki this week and everything went smoothly until the crankset. Here is where i earned the title of Terrible Bike Mechanic.
The i was able to remove the non drive side crankarm bolt after a wd40 overnight soak. The drive side would not budge. I boight some liquid penetrating oil and gave that side an overnight soak as well. To no avail, it was STUCK. I fired up the impact wrech and completely stripped the crank arm bolt. To add insult to injury, i sawed off the chainring.
Anyone have any ideas how to get this stubnorn crankset and bottom bracket out?
http://i.imgur.com/uEpiGC2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/0Fizq1L.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dw34pz4.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/j1ImdMv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nXX53vW.jpg
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Use an emery cut off wheel (silicon carbide will pack up with aluminum) to make two cuts, 180° from each other around the crank eye. It will separate and fall off; you can use a cold chisel to finish the cut when you get close, if you've got one. Then you can just remove the cups. The right side should move with a drift punch if it's stuck, or a pin spanner if it isn't.
The other side is best removed via a bench vise, unless you have a fixed cup tool... Adjustable wrenches tend to slip.
Edit: alternatively, you can use a "bolt/nut extractor/ to grip the damaged hex head. Make sure you get the kind intended for hex-head bolts/nuts.
The other side is best removed via a bench vise, unless you have a fixed cup tool... Adjustable wrenches tend to slip.
Edit: alternatively, you can use a "bolt/nut extractor/ to grip the damaged hex head. Make sure you get the kind intended for hex-head bolts/nuts.
BigDB67
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the advice @Karate Monkey!
Would a Dremel Tool emery cut off wheel do the trick?
Any suggestion for a good Spanner Wrench?
Would a Dremel Tool emery cut off wheel do the trick?
Any suggestion for a good Spanner Wrench?
BigDB67
Well-Known Member
The End of Project Bukake... errr.. I Mean Project Kubaki
Well @Karate Monkey, your advice was sound! I used a Dremel and I was able to split the nut. I used a cold chisel to finish the job. While I was hammering the chisel i noticed a lot rust falling off the frame. When I turned the bike over I noticed a hole in the frame. When I touched it the hole "grew" to about the size of dime.
I think it is safe to say Project Kabuki is finished.
So I still do want to build a bike up from the frame. I was thinking of a gravel grinder/CX bike. What kind of frame should I look for on craigslist? Should I just buy a new cheapo frame?
Well @Karate Monkey, your advice was sound! I used a Dremel and I was able to split the nut. I used a cold chisel to finish the job. While I was hammering the chisel i noticed a lot rust falling off the frame. When I turned the bike over I noticed a hole in the frame. When I touched it the hole "grew" to about the size of dime.
I think it is safe to say Project Kabuki is finished.
So I still do want to build a bike up from the frame. I was thinking of a gravel grinder/CX bike. What kind of frame should I look for on craigslist? Should I just buy a new cheapo frame?
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I would buy an older frame (from someplace like Second Life Bikes/Bike Exchange). Something with clearance for 32s, or thereabouts... So, 70's or 80's. If you want more tire clearance (or same size with fenders), it's pretty easy to do a 650b conversion with the wheels and long reach brakes.
PS, I'll throw you a couple of bucks for the Kabuki headbadge, if you don't want it.
PS, I'll throw you a couple of bucks for the Kabuki headbadge, if you don't want it.
