What have you done to your bike today?
- Thread starter Chris(NJ)
- Start date
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I've a pair of 29x2.5 Hookworms if you want to borrow them.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Thanks, all good, the Marathon Supremes are faster than the Conti Top Contact 47mm. Planning to get the Schwalbe Marathon Almotions later in the year. Any experience with them? Supposed to be fast rolling and good puncture prevention
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I put a pair on someone's e-bike (tubeless), and they wore them down to nothing with no flats, so...success? The larger size--at any rate--is much lighter than traditional Marathons.
If I wasn't touring, I'd probably still just use Big Ones (G-One now?). They're way lighter, faster, and tubeless sealant for tires that size works well for anything but running over patches of broken glass (or over-achieving seagull litter at Sandy Hook, but I digress).
If I wasn't touring, I'd probably still just use Big Ones (G-One now?). They're way lighter, faster, and tubeless sealant for tires that size works well for anything but running over patches of broken glass (or over-achieving seagull litter at Sandy Hook, but I digress).
KF2M
Well-Known Member
Upgraded the Dt Swiss 370 rear hub from 3-pawl to 36T RachetLN System. The videos were not kidding about getting the old drive ring out of the hub. Got to the point I was afraid I was going to break something so I took the wheel over to Aistriu over in Marlton during my lunch. Fifteen minutes later they got it out. Got it all home, and back together. Had to disassemble once because the shield between the drive ring/spring and bearing slipped. Got the bike all back together. Sounds great (well barely any sound now), and engages really quick. No more slop, and I can feel the difference the elliptical chainring.
I need some advice. I’ve got a tick/click that I can’t clean up on an older bike (2013 Trek superfly 100 al elite). I’ve replaced the bottom bracket and the pivot bushing on the frame, lubed the seat post and installed a new seat and chain due to normal maintenance. But the click still remains. Swapping the pedals is next. Any suggestions or should I just retire my favorite bike?
Bikeworks
Well-Known Member
You've cleared every possibility of the drivetrain (B screw, cable stretch, derailleur hanger, crank bolts, etc)? When does the click seem to happen? Is it front or back of the bike?
JDurk
Well-Known Member
Check the drivetrain: chain rings, cassette and RD pulleys. You mentioned you already replaced the chain.
It seems to click on the down stroke of the drive side pedal area and only while under pressure, never during light pedaling.
Maybe it’s my knees?
Bikeworks
Well-Known Member
My experience with this has always been the the crank bolts, but I suppose the pedal or BB could be in play, too.
John the Plumber
Well-Known Member
Two things I could think of that you didn't mention one check for any loose spokes and the other is rear hub. Maybe if you had another rear wheel throw it on........
I’ll check the spokes but I don’t have another wheel, other bike is 27.5.
Everyone has given me interesting ideas. I’ll check each and see what happens next.
Thanks to everyone.
Juggernaut
Master of the Metaphor
The only things I didn’t notice on a cursory read are…. I don’t remember any mention of loose rotor and or loose caliper…missing bolts. Could it be a cleat issue? Lastly, a possible loose axle. After that, I’ve got nothing.
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
What cranks are you using? I had a similar sounding problem with a set of carbon cranks when the aliminium spindle interface span creating a barely visible crack around it.