What have you done to your bike today?

[qclabrat]

Goatlink 10spd vs 11spd
Wolftooth website says 10spd is only for clutch derailleurs
11 spd is clearly longer, is that the only difference and can they be used for non-clutch 10 spd setups?

 

[qclabrat]

I have a similar chain ring 30T 64BCD on my 5Spot. It helped me to fix backpedaling issue with 42T casette. Actually it makes a better chain line for short chainstays than any option for clinch

Which cranks are you using with the offset 64 bcd chainring? a pink bike article mentioned for M8000 cranks only but the the product website doesn't specify

 

[alex_k]

Which cranks are you using with the offset 64 bcd chainring? a pink bike article mentioned for M8000 cranks only but the the product website doesn't specify

Shimano SLX M670 with normal 104/64 bcd , newest shimano cranks have very specific bolt parttern

http://www.treefortbikes.com/produc...ainring.html?gclid=CKDf59ux3dACFQ5LDQodyngHOw

 

[Ian F]

I finally cleared out enough room in the work area to start putting together the new Primer I bought a couple of months ago. Step one - remove headset race from the kit-supplied fork (RS Pike) to install on a new Manitou fork. Realizing the old tried and true screwdriver method was probably going to scratch the crap out of a brand new fork (that I hope to sell), I finally broke down and ordered a Park CRP-2. Fortunately, my Discover cash-back bonus mitigated the cost (the tool ain't cheap). Should arrive next week.

 

[qclabrat]

Shimano SLX M670 with normal 104/64 bcd , newest shimano cranks have very specific bolt parttern

http://www.treefortbikes.com/produc...ainring.html?gclid=CKDf59ux3dACFQ5LDQodyngHOw

this one isn't offset

 

[Karate Monkey]

Shimano SLX M670 with normal 104/64 bcd , newest shimano cranks have very specific bolt parttern

http://www.treefortbikes.com/produc...ainring.html?gclid=CKDf59ux3dACFQ5LDQodyngHOw

this one isn't offset

ie, the bolt pattern on new Shimano cranks is rectangular, not square.

 

[Karate Monkey]

Winter project. Proper crimping pliers make attaching the connectors way the hell easier.

 

[choop]

Earlier this fall I stripped the Crave frame down to aluminum, added new Stans Crest MK3's and rebuilt the drive train.

Last week I added a Thomson dropper.

 

[huffster]

That's purdy!

 

[Karate Monkey]

Got a good deal on an old Karrimor bag, but it didn't have provisions for more "modern" (aka, no decaleur) mounting:

So, I fixed that:

If you are an outdoors-y person, and you don't own a speedy stitcher, I can't describe how much of a disservice you are doing yourself.

Next step, waxing...

 

[rottin']

Got a good deal on an old Karrimor bag, but it didn't have provisions for more "modern" (aka, no decaleur) mounting:

So, I fixed that:

If you are an outdoors-y person, and you don't own a speedy stitcher, I can't describe how much of a disservice you are doing yourself.

Next step, waxing...

What's a speedy stitcher? Is it like a Sew-Genie type thing?

 

[Kaleidopete]

What's a speedy stitcher? Is it like a Sew-Genie type thing?

I've had one for a long time, it works great, but @wschruba looks like a pro at using it! I was never that good.

https://www.google.com/search?sourc..._enUS398US400&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.3935j0j7

 

[Karate Monkey]

I've had one for a long time, it works great, but @wschruba looks like a pro at using it! I was never that good.

That's because you can't see the inside of the bag

(use a piece of chalk to make a straight line, then you can follow it)

Beeswax (and some tea tree oil--good enough to keep stuff from eating woodwinds, good enough for a bag):

Before:

During:

Heated the bag gently with a heat gun on low, section by section.

After:

[see pic two, turn down your brightness a little bit]

Will test it after it has had a chance to set. In all likelihood, will need a few touch ups, but that's normal. It's now much stiffer, and has no trouble maintaining its shape by itself. Next step: attach closures for the main flap+top bungee.

 

[Karate Monkey]

Finished with the waxing:

The bag is, more or less, completely waterproof now. Of course, it doesn't stop water getting past a flap/a corner, but it has way more class than an Ortlieb.

 

[Karate Monkey]

Didn't expect a tear in the bag so soon, so it must have been pre-existing. Such is the life of vintage parts. Saw it while putting a concho on the bag for the lid closure.

Used a seam ripper to remove the pocket over it:

Closed the tear:

Reinforce the area on the inside (sewed in place after sticking it in):

The only step that needs some special explanation--this is one real handy use for t-pins when sewing something: either lining up new parts, or realigning them with old holes (especially for thick fabrics/leather):

Done:

 

[Dusty the Whale]

Just picked up brakes from Glenn. Making my Salsa a SS later today

 

[Ryan.P]

Going to ride flat pedals occasionally this off season to see if I'm any faster when it's slick and slimy

 

[Dusty the Whale]

Aaaaannnnddd it's back

 

[Karate Monkey]

Made a 'rocket' tool for a special case. Good use for old steel seatposts (thanks SLB!):

I went way farther than I had too (stress reliefs, filed edges), but I can't resist doing it "right".

If you've ever used a cup remover and had it not work that well/keep slipping out, you're [probably] not nuts. When Park/some of the other manufacturers 'updated' the tool for 34mm+ headsets, they bent the legs out and called it a job well done, but that left you trying to remove smaller headsets with the equivalent of a knife edge--so, grab your homemade tool, set the tines to the right diameter, and shove a ball down the middle that will hold them there (bouncy balls are great, since they kind of stick into the tines), then run the bottom on a belt sander until it's flat. That way, you'll always have the most remover bearing down on the cup/cone you're trying to remove. I've got one tool for each size headset (30, 34, 44).

 

[huffster]

@wschruba Picture no workie??! And now I'm even more curious