What have you done to your bike today?

I crash often (averaging a crash every ~4th ride or so). I bent my brake lever during the latest crash. I looked around for an OEM replacement but decided to give Flo levers a try.

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Install was simple. The only thing that took time is figuring out where the spring goes.

52770905418_cebb569461_b.jpg


It seems to be a solid piece. If I were to do it again, I'd order the levers in black instead of orange.
 
I crash often (averaging a crash every ~4th ride or so). I bent my brake lever during the latest crash. I looked around for an OEM replacement but decided to give Flo levers a try.

52770905423_e39b023cdf_b.jpg


Install was simple. The only thing that took time is figuring out where the spring goes.

52770905418_cebb569461_b.jpg


It seems to be a solid piece. If I were to do it again, I'd order the levers in black instead of orange.
I've been eyeing those for a while, they look nice. Are they slippery due to the lack of dimples? I would install a set of rubber lever covers, same as I did on my bikes, sticky fingers.
 
I've been eyeing those for a while, they look nice. Are they slippery due to the lack of dimples? I would install a set of rubber lever covers, same as I did on my bikes, sticky fingers.
I haven't gotten a chance to use them on a ride. Initial impressions say they have the same grip/slipperiness as the OEM levers with dimples. I will let you know when I get a chance to try them out.

Curious, have you tried grip tape on the levers?
 
So you only have concern for slippery brake levers? No concern that this guy crashes every four times he rides his bike? 😉
I am getting better. It was every other ride not too long ago. 🤣

I like to push my limits as I find that is the only way I learn. And at the moment, those said limits are very low. lol
 
So you only have concern for slippery brake levers? No concern that this guy crashes every four times he rides his bike? 😉
Nothing I can do about that.

Also, the only lever I broke was exactly like the one in his picture, bent upward. I don't really see what problem these levers are supposed to fix, other than prevent them from gettin caught while backing up the bike on a trail, which happens like...never? They do look nice though, so cover them up doesn't really make much sense.
 
I crash often (averaging a crash every ~4th ride or so). I bent my brake lever during the latest crash. I looked around for an OEM replacement but decided to give Flo levers a try.

52770905423_e39b023cdf_b.jpg


Install was simple. The only thing that took time is figuring out where the spring goes.

52770905418_cebb569461_b.jpg


It seems to be a solid piece. If I were to do it again, I'd order the levers in black instead of orange.
I looked at those when I replaced my bent brake lever but decide for the OEM. Aside from choice of colors, the advantage appears to be they are not supposed to bend/break as easily in a crash as the Shimano but still have give so they don't destroy the entire brake assembly. Post how they work out for you. We may have to wait for some multiple of ~every 4 rides for that.
 
I looked at those when I replaced my bent brake lever but decide for the OEM. Aside from choice of colors, the advantage appears to be they are not supposed to bend/break as easily in a crash as the Shimano but still have give so they don't destroy the entire brake assembly. Post how they work out for you. We may have to wait for some multiple of ~every 4 rides for that.
If there is a way to break them, I will find out soon enough. Especially since the trails will be greasy in the next couple of days. I often low side crash.

I bought them since I can get delivery the fastest. The bending forward really does nothing for me.
 
If there is a way to break them, I will find out soon enough. Especially since the trails will be greasy in the next couple of days. I often low side crash.

I bought them since I can get delivery the fastest. The bending forward really does nothing for me.
Yeah, it took something like three weeks for the Shimano lever to arrive, which was annoying. The bent lever was still functional while I was waiting. It had a hairline crack but didn't break. No front brake if it did.
 
Some things done last week. Flipped the Enve fork axle to go from 52mm to 44mm offset while I had the caliper off to do a gravity bleed. Brake adapter spacer changed to compensate for the new offset. New XT pads installed as well.
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Yesterday, new KMC X-series 9sp and Race Face N/W 32t chainring installed. Sealant refreshed in both wheels. All this in preparation for next weekend at Rattling MTB. Now if I could just decide which cog to run, 19t or 20t. The 1st climb will suck with either. After that is a question. Paging @1speed
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Some things done last week. Flipped the Enve fork axle to go from 52mm to 44mm offset while I had the caliper off to do a gravity bleed. Adapter spacer changed to compensate for the new offset. New XT pads installed as well.
View attachment 210214

Yesterday, new KMC X-series 9sp and Race Face N/W 32t chainring installed. Sealant refreshed in both wheels. All this in preparation for next weekend at Rattling MTB. Now if I could just decide which cog to run, 19t or 20t. The 1st climb will suck with either. After that is a question. Paging @1speed View attachment 210215
Personally, I'd go with the 20t. Even beyond that first (monstrous) climb, there is a lot more climbing to do and even when you're not climbing, the tech is enough to take away any advantage to a bigger gear. The torque you'd need to navigate the Rock Ridge and Wolf Pond trails on a bigger gear isn't going to do you any favors for the last few big climbs on the dirt road. You'll find it's easier to stay upright and moving on those trails with a spinny gear (unless, of course, you find yourself stuck behind someone who is forced to dismount, in which case no amount of gearing is going to help you anyway!)
 
Personally, I'd go with the 20t. Even beyond that first (monstrous) climb, there is a lot more climbing to do and even when you're not climbing, the tech is enough to take away any advantage to a bigger gear. The torque you'd need to navigate the Rock Ridge and Wolf Pond trails on a bigger gear isn't going to do you any favors for the last few big climbs on the dirt road. You'll find it's easier to stay upright and moving on those trails with a spinny gear (unless, of course, you find yourself stuck behind someone who is forced to dismount, in which case no amount of gearing is going to help you anyway!)
Thank you for confirming what I was already thinking. Link of the course. It may be a bit different from the last time you participated.

 
Thank you for confirming what I was already thinking. Link of the course. It may be a bit different from the last time you participated.

Wow - that is VERY different. Overall less climbing and they have you doing RC Trail both ways. They cut out the real beast climb, moving it to the end where you go down it. Not sure how I'd feel about that - on the one hand, "Yay!" but on the other hand, it's kind of an iconic part of that race - quite possibly among the toughest first 5 miles of any race on the calendar: starting off with a thousand foot climb in the first two miles followed by immediately putting you on Rock Ridge's baby heads and then right into Wolf Pond with the big boulder table tops. Doing all that before you are technically even warmed up was always a kick in the teeth, but it made for a memorable day. Hitting Rock Ridge while you're still tasting blood in your mouth from the climb was nuts - there were some really skilled riders who were putting their feet down just because they were too anaerobic to make good decisions. The upside is that you get to do RC Trail for like a third of the total miles, and either way on that trail is just a lot of fun.
 
Wow - that is VERY different. Overall less climbing and they have you doing RC Trail both ways. They cut out the real beast climb, moving it to the end where you go down it. Not sure how I'd feel about that - on the one hand, "Yay!" but on the other hand, it's kind of an iconic part of that race - quite possibly among the toughest first 5 miles of any race on the calendar: starting off with a thousand foot climb in the first two miles followed by immediately putting you on Rock Ridge's baby heads and then right into Wolf Pond with the big boulder table tops. Doing all that before you are technically even warmed up was always a kick in the teeth, but it made for a memorable day. Hitting Rock Ridge while you're still tasting blood in your mouth from the climb was nuts - there were some really skilled riders who were putting their feet down just because they were too anaerobic to make good decisions. The upside is that you get to do RC Trail for like a third of the total miles, and either way on that trail is just a lot of fun.
So you see why I'm conflicted on gearing. After that 1st climb, it's not too bad the rest of the way. I still remember Rock Ridge at the beginning from a few years ago after the climb.
 
So you see why I'm conflicted on gearing. After that 1st climb, it's not too bad the rest of the way. I still remember Rock Ridge at the beginning from a few years ago after the climb.
Yeah, I'd still go with the 20t, though - don't forget that you are going up the gradual Rattling Creek Trail and then (seemingly) into a reverse direction Rock Ridge, which is no less technical no matter how you go. Just don't plan on pedaling at all on the final descent (if you enjoy having functioning knees! 🤣 )
 
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