omg what is with you and wheelz
What have you done to your bike today?
- Thread starter Chris(NJ)
- Start date
omg what is with you and wheelz
did you take the valve core out (i'm kinda sure you did)
seat it with a tube, break 1 side, remove tube, then just seat the other lying flat, using gravity to help?
leave wheel with me for a year or two.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Juggernaut
Master of the Metaphor
Soapy water the crap out of the inside of the tire and the whole rim first. Remove core and set the compressor to 100 psi (obviously I don't inflate to 100 psi) for volume force. Then use a "tie down" strap wrapped around the tread putting some uniform downward pressure forcing more of the energy outward on inflation. An exercise band can also be used successfully too. That's what I do on stubborn fatbike tubeless tires.
Kaleidopete
Well-Known Member
It must be tire fail day. I'm changing over studded tires to non studded.
I blow up the Big Fat Larry to 20 psi to seat it and POW, it pops off the wheel!
I lower air and push tire back on and only go to 16 PSI. Looks OK.
Put on bike and lower pressure to 8 PSI. We'll see how it goes.
at 20 PSI
I blow up the Big Fat Larry to 20 psi to seat it and POW, it pops off the wheel!
I lower air and push tire back on and only go to 16 PSI. Looks OK.
Put on bike and lower pressure to 8 PSI. We'll see how it goes.
at 20 PSI
Pampa
Well-Known Member
Finally finished it up! At least for now 🙂
I only road it around the block and a bit on a gravel rode but the ride it turned out pretty much how I expected/wanted. Once I ride it more and put bags, aerobars and other stuff on it I'll cut the steerer and maybe shorten the brake hoses a bit more. The rear brake hose runs internal to the frame; first time I see this.
The crank arms run VERY tight with the chainstays (about 1mm). I think with a loaded bike and standing on the pedals, there will be some flex and they will rub. When it comes to that I'll play with spacers or even a longer spindle. That way I might be able to use the Garmin cadence sensor on the crank arm.
The one thing I noticed is that at high cadence I couldn't keep up with smooth, "round", pedal strokes (I was bouncing off the seat). I don't have this problem on my FS (Niner RKT). The oval ring doesn't help but both bikes have it and I can do close to 100 rpm on the RKT without problems.
As it is, it weighs 21 lb 6 oz, but that will change once I start adding stuff to it.
I only road it around the block and a bit on a gravel rode but the ride it turned out pretty much how I expected/wanted. Once I ride it more and put bags, aerobars and other stuff on it I'll cut the steerer and maybe shorten the brake hoses a bit more. The rear brake hose runs internal to the frame; first time I see this.
The crank arms run VERY tight with the chainstays (about 1mm). I think with a loaded bike and standing on the pedals, there will be some flex and they will rub. When it comes to that I'll play with spacers or even a longer spindle. That way I might be able to use the Garmin cadence sensor on the crank arm.
The one thing I noticed is that at high cadence I couldn't keep up with smooth, "round", pedal strokes (I was bouncing off the seat). I don't have this problem on my FS (Niner RKT). The oval ring doesn't help but both bikes have it and I can do close to 100 rpm on the RKT without problems.
As it is, it weighs 21 lb 6 oz, but that will change once I start adding stuff to it.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
What size is the fender? I think I have a few of the SKS crimp on style ones, if it's the right size...
Fire Lord Jim
Well-Known Member
What have I done to my bike today? Sold it! @ Second Life's swap meet.
huffster
Well-Known Member
Nice build. That is one unusual front fork set-up you have going on there. Can you post a close up and also possibly explain what is going on? It appears to have some form of suspension.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Search Lauf forks
Pampa
Well-Known Member
Yep, as @qlabrat said, it's a Lauf fork. 60mm of travel, no moving parts, no maintenance, relatively light (1 kg/2.2 lb). It's not a replacement for regular forks but very good for the right application. This will be a touring bike and the fork works well to smooth out washboarded gravel roads and other minor trail chatter. I used the original/old version and did well even with a loaded bike.
Magic
Formerly 1sh0t1b33r
Bouncing off the seat could be tire pressure, no? You had a fatbike, so I’m sure you experienced similar until you found the perfect pressure? And maybe you need a Boost crank?
Pampa
Well-Known Member
I didn't have the "bobbing" problem on the fat bike. Maybe because the tire pressure is lower and the air volume higher, so it acts a bit as rear suspension. Not sure what pressure I had on the rear but I know I can't go lower as I bottomed out when I didn't lift my butt in a couple of obstacles. Also, I think the problem is more noticeable riding flat, smooth gravel roads than when riding bumpy ST. Anyway, All my bikes have been HT until my last one, and with skinny tires, so I'm sure I can find my rhythm again.
The RF recommended spindle length for a boost 148 bike is the shorter one, (the one I have) with the front ring flipped (I didn't need to do this b/c the chain clears the chainstay well). Their reco's are for getting the smaller q-factor. I might switch to the next length version (+9mm) with some spacers. A $70 mistake...
knobbyhead
Next off the Island.
I hate when you put the chain on , turn the pedals and realize you put the chain on wrongSuccessfully replaced the pulley wheels on the spearfish. The lower one was falling apart - had to use the Evo as a guide as the first time I got the chain backwards
Back in business
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
please do show your rack without the shoes, interested
its wedged into the lower shelf of my harborfreight cart between the milk crate and the close edge
