The DIY thread - DIYourself

THATmanMANNY said:
POPCORN TESTED

I have some popcorn I want to get rid of. I need it tested for toxins (i.e. asbestos). Anyone have any info?
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THATmanMANNY said:
NEED PAINT / POPCORN WALLS TESTED

I have some popcorn walls I want to get rid of. I need it tested for toxins (i.e. asbestos). Anyone have any info?

I know home improvement sells kits and send it in somewhere but anywhere local I can just drop off a sample and have it tested thoroughly?
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How old is your house? They banned asbestos inside in the late 70s.

Lot's of places to do this - here's one:

http://www.ets-enviro.com/
 
@serviceguy yea I know about the kits but I need to ship to store. They aren't in stock. Have you done it? You pay for the kit and then you pay for shipping and then you pay for the test iteself? Is that how it works? How much?

@rick81721 60s? better safe than sorry

Also, washed my daily this weekend in the rain! Been like a year since last wash. Using rainwater for the rinse off! It's also silver so it like made nearly no difference.
 
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THATmanMANNY said:
@serviceguy yea I know about the kits but I need to ship to store. They aren't in stock. Have you done it? You pay for the kit and then you pay for shipping and then you pay for the test iteself? Is that how it works? How much?

@rick81721 60s? better safe than sorry

Also, washed my daily this weekend in the rain! Been like a year since last wash. Using rainwater for the rinse off! It's also silver so it like made nearly no difference.
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I did use it but I can't remember how it worked to be honest, it was more than a year ago. I'll check when I get home, I should have the paperwork...somewhere.
 
serviceguy said:
You can just pick up a test kit at Home Depot and send it in to be tested, they also give you instructions on how to get the sample if that is what worries you. It only take a few days to get the results. For removal, if necessary, I have some contact info for a company that was also used with satisfactory results by @rlb (I think) .
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Yup GR Tech. They did 2 jobs for me, I would recommend them to anyone.
 
I need to assess a small water leak on the ceiling of the extension on the front of the house. Ceiling is nutty pine tongue and groove boards in bad shape, unknown insulation on top of it (if any) and not accessible attic over it, boards need to come down in order to access the attic and check under the roof. Due to the overwhelming amount of wood paneling inside the house (all of it, It seemed cozy when we bought it, now not so much) we decided to replace with drywall (or is it called dry ceiling if installed horizontally?).

What type of insulation would be better/most practical to install on top of the drywall (I don't want to deal with loose insulation and I've used rockwhool somewhere else in the house before so there's that) and should I install a vapor barrier under the batts ? Given the unconventional techniques used to build this house that I uncovered and had to fix before, I wouldn't be surprised if I had to actually install joists as well!

Fire! Now that I've got that out of the way I would appreciate any input. Thanks in advance.
 
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serviceguy said:
I need to assess a small water leak on the ceiling of the extension on the front of the house. Ceiling is nutty pine tongue and groove boards in bad shape, unknown insulation on top of it (if any) and not accessible attic over it, boards need to come down in order to access the attic and check under the roof. Due to the overwhelming amount of wood paneling inside the house (all of it, It seemed cozy when we bought it, now not so much) we decided to replace with drywall (or is it called dry ceiling if installed horizontally?).

What type of insulation would be better/most practical to install on top of the drywall (I don't want to deal with loose insulation and I've used rockwhool somewhere else in the house before so there's that) and should I install a vapor barrier under the batts ? Given the unconventional techniques used to build this house that I uncovered and had to fix before, I wouldn't be surprised if I had to actually install joists as well!

Fire! Now that I've got that out of the way I would appreciate any input. Thanks in advance.
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fiberglass batt insulation - R30, faced. the facing is the moisture barrier. make sure that air can come up through the eves, there are inserts to make sure the insulation doesn't block it. i'll assume there are vents to let air circulate in the unconditioned space?
 
Patrick said:
fiberglass batt insulation - R30, faced. the facing is the moisture barrier. make sure that air can come up through the eves, there are inserts to make sure the insulation doesn't block it. i'll assume there are vents to let air circulate in the unconditioned space?
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Vents are in and functional. That was my previous project, replacing the soffit and outdoor light fixture (previously consisting of a plywood sheet and exposed indoor electrical metal box with a waterproof lampholder). What is the argument in favor of fiberglass vs rockwool ? I personally like the latter because the fireproofing and find it easier to work, but it doesn't come with the vapor reducing barrier, hence the question.
 
serviceguy said:
Vents are in and functional. That was my previous project, replacing the soffit and outdoor light fixture (previously consisting of a plywood sheet and exposed indoor electrical metal box with a waterproof lampholder). What is the argument in favor of fiberglass vs rockwool ? I personally like the latter because the fireproofing and find it easier to work, but it doesn't come with the vapor reducing barrier, hence the question.
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how much do you need for r30? it is more expensive.

fiberglass is easy to work with - get an insulation saw sold in the insulation isle. makes all the difference in the world.

just remember the soffit baffle! there are some cool new ones that close the end of the joist bay
 
Patrick said:
how much do you need for r30? it is more expensive.

fiberglass is easy to work with - get an insulation saw sold in the insulation isle. makes all the difference in the world.

just remember the soffit baffle! there are some cool new ones that close the end of the joist bay
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Actually I’ve worked with both and rockwhool is way more manageable and easier to cut IMHO. It’s a small surface so quality trumps price in this case. I did some research and found a vapor reducer that will work. Can’t use the baffles, only 3 extraction vents up top so the space between the other rafters would not be vented, and it will mold).
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Still related to my still-not-happening-yet ceiling replacement / roof leak remediation...is there a paint that can be applied to the rafters and under roof to prevent mold for good? I’ve seen a commercial building under construction and they had all the rafters painted in black, which made me think that was some type of mold treatment of some sort, since rafters aren’t usually painted, not that I know of.
Project had been delayed to spring but yesterday there was another small leak so I may have a go at it sooner. At least I managed to slide my phone through one of the recessed lighting opening ( yet another thing that will need addressing) and verify that what little insulation is there is fiberglass, but off course installed upside down...
 
That fun feeling when you realize that your planned recessed light spacing ends up on a seam on the ceiling drywall you just hung.
 
Jmann said:
That fun feeling when you realize that your planned recessed light spacing ends up on a seam on the ceiling drywall you just hung.
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Definitely go with dimmable LED modules too - the best lighting improvement we've ever made! The ones we got were self-contained and slide right into the can. You can choose the color temperature, they don't make any noise (audible or RF), and they give off zero heat.
 
one piece crank said:
Definitely go with dimmable LED modules too - the best lighting improvement we've ever made! The ones we got were self-contained and slide right into the can. You can choose the color temperature, they don't make any noise (audible or RF), and they give off zero heat.
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I am about to start a similar project, I am a little concerned about the issued with retina damage related to the use of LED generated as exclusive light source in a room? Any thought on the specific issue?

https://medicalxpress.com/news/2019-05-eyes-health-authority.html

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/...ally-friendly-LED-lights-cause-BLINDNESS.html

"A study carried out by the University of Antwerp earlier this year found that LED lights were bleaching the paint on works by Van Gogh and Cézanne."
 
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