Saturday and Sunday were absolutely awesome! Current on Sunday did suck. I just stood on a sandbar and paddled when a set was lining up. Saturday was great! Glad you
@pkovo scored too!
My arms are noodles.
I didn't go Sunday. Wanted to, but I basically spent the whole day down there Sat so had to make up with family time Sunday. I went Saturday without really looking at it. I had gotten a text from a friend saying it was big, but I don't know I didn't really believe it. It was an 8 sec swell so I still had visions of something smaller and weak, like maybe waist to belly or something. I did not expect the head + sets I saw when I rolled up.
The spot I picked had a long paddle, and was annoying to get out to and over the sandbar. No channel, rip, or jetty to assist. I got out OK but a lot of people were getting stuffed and turning around. Once I got out, I ate shit a lot for a while. I was riding a 6'5" round tail which seemed like the perfect choice for the day, but I was missing a lot of waves, and finding myself late on takeoff on many of the ones I was getting.
Eventually out of frustration I switched to a 5'11" fishy type board with a pulled in round tail. Not a board I would expect to work in these conditions, but man it went great. Turned my session around completely.
I was kind of perplexed at how my boards weren't working as expected, then I remembered the nearly 15 freaking lbs I've put on this year and it kind of made sense. The fish has the volume I need in my current state. In the past on bigger waves, I couldn't sink the tail and would spin out, now that I'm heavier, I can sink the tail just fine.
Anyway, it sure was an unexpected fun swell. Glad you scored as well. I went down expecting to make the most of a small swell, and ended up getting some really solid rides. That is always a welcome surprise!