Car-spotting thread

Dingo said:
That is correct. Also need to use a power valve based on idle vacuum reading. 6.5 is the most commonly used, but depending on the cam I've gone as low as 4.0. The best way to tune is with A/F ratio meter and a vacuum guage.
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6.5 seems about right given the vac. readings i was seeing, however, I dont know what power valve is in the carb. I have never changed it. So probably going to have to take it apart at some point and check.

You mentioned the a/f guage...at some point im going to fix the crappy exhaust on this car, I think I will add in some o2 sensor bungs
 
UtahJoe said:
6.5 seems about right given the vac. readings i was seeing, however, I dont know what power valve is in the carb. I have never changed it. So probably going to have to take it apart at some point and check.

You mentioned the a/f guage...at some point im going to fix the crappy exhaust on this car, I think I will add in some o2 sensor bungs
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Be sure to place the bung on the top of the pipe to prevent water entering the sensor
 
Dingo said:
Be sure to place the bung on the top of the pipe to prevent water entering the sensor
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So I went out for a test drive at lunch....until it fully warmed up it had a slight hesitation if I was say in 3rd gear at 2000-2500 rpm and stomped on it.....(mechanical secondaries) which I think (correct me if im wrong) is the carb going from the jets to the powervalve? Once the car warmed up, this totally went away and it ran the best it has in my memory. I could usually make it stumble a bit if I put it in 4th gear and floored it at about 2000rpm, but not now. Reved out really clean to 5500....Off idle was great...I can stand behind it without my eyes burning now and just lugging around at 1500-2000 rpm, its not loading up now

the only issue im still having is getting it to come back to where i set the idle.....I drove it around until it was fully warmed up....idle was settling in at about 1000 rpm, so i stopped and reset it to about 750-800. Drove it somemore...come back to a light and it wants to settle at 900...sometimes if i crack the throttle it will return to where i set it. Its probably not fully sorted out yet, but BY FAR the best the car has run.

the other thing I did last night was move the vacuum advance from the ported vac on the carb to the manifold vac on the base plate, so this could also be affecting the idle im sure.
 
UtahJoe said:
So I went out for a test drive at lunch....until it fully warmed up it had a slight hesitation if I was say in 3rd gear at 2000-2500 rpm and stomped on it.....(mechanical secondaries) which I think (correct me if im wrong) is the carb going from the jets to the powervalve? Once the car warmed up, this totally went away and it ran the best it has in my memory. I could usually make it stumble a bit if I put it in 4th gear and floored it at about 2000rpm, but not now. Reved out really clean to 5500....Off idle was great...I can stand behind it without my eyes burning now and just lugging around at 1500-2000 rpm, its not loading up now

the only issue im still having is getting it to come back to where i set the idle.....I drove it around until it was fully warmed up....idle was settling in at about 1000 rpm, so i stopped and reset it to about 750-800. Drove it somemore...come back to a light and it wants to settle at 900...sometimes if i crack the throttle it will return to where i set it. Its probably not fully sorted out yet, but BY FAR the best the car has run.

the other thing I did last night was move the vacuum advance from the ported vac on the carb to the manifold vac on the base plate, so this could also be affecting the idle im sure.
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Hard to say without actually driving it. A guess would be the secondary accelerator pump nozzle increase the size or fuss with the cam to make it shoot more fuel.
Vacuum advance will effect idle, most times engines run better using manifold vacuum. Thats something to try, but will have to reset the idle speed and maybe the needles.
 
Dingo said:
Hard to say without actually driving it. A guess would be the secondary accelerator pump nozzle increase the size or fuss with the cam to make it shoot more fuel.
Vacuum advance will effect idle, most times engines run better using manifold vacuum. Thats something to try, but will have to reset the idle speed and maybe the needles.
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Oh, be sure the vacuum advance can pull to full advance with the amount of vacuum it idles at. Or it will cycle/surge back and forth. There are advance units that you can adjust the spring tension on with an allen screw.
 
Also..WOW! I get that these are "wrapper" cars and basically new...I mean to invest in 67k in this....ok, so at that price, your also going to park it somewhere and not drive it, bc the low mileage is adding ~25K to the value....Just seems like such a hassle for an old fox body.

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UtahJoe said:
your too young to have seen that...but I was THERE MAN...I watched every minute of that chase live, it was intense...that bronco was def. white 🙂
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I was MTB'g through Watchung Reservation during the chase. We all figured he'd have killed himself by the end of the ride.
 
rick81721 said:
Especially when you can get a fully loaded new one for less. Tho bummer that the 2.7L ecoboost motor only comes with a 10 sp automatic
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ya that 7 speed man. looks neat, but this is like the way of the world now...you can have a manual, but im going to only attach it to engines you dont want.
 
UtahJoe said:
ya that 7 speed man. looks neat, but this is like the way of the world now...you can have a manual, but im going to only attach it to engines you dont want.
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All the cool cars with big engines are automatic. Cars must be made out of paper these days. Don't want the warranty issues I guess.
 
based on quick visit to the fords build and price tool, you cannot currently get the 2.7ecoboost OR a manual transmission, each trimline has one engine/trans option 1.5l ecoboost or 2.0lecoboost both with 8 speed auto

not sure when the manual or bigger engine will be available but would certainly suck if they were both just hype.
 
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