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Get a second option…J&L in south Plainfield is a family friend. If you want a “German specialist” check out shade tree in Morristown. Never been but only hear good things

For VW Repairs or Volkswagen Maintenance in Morristown, NJ

If you need VW repairs in New Jersey, normal periodic VW maintenance or any other Volkswagen service, Shade Tree Garage in Morristown, NJ is the place to go.
www.shadetreegarage.com
 
Patrick said:
this is bs - the car doesn't go from running ok to not being able to start w/dx it is the motor unless something catastrophic -
which usually doesn't happen after it is turned off unless it seized - which it didn't.

even a cracked block will backfire or make some sort of explosion in a good cylinder.

you had a dead battery as the initial symptom ???
unhook the battery cable for a night, then reconnect the next day on a full charge.
(i'm stabbing blind - but something is up)
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I totally agree with this POV. No start does not usually mean new motor.
 
Thanks all for the feedback, have to be in Florida unexpectedly for a week but will get it towed home by AAA when I get back
 
You had low oil level, over 2 qts…..not good. No start could be due to the pcm cutting the spark due to low oil pressure. Driving around like that means oil starvation at times and could have caused beg and ring wear. Low compression would make me get rid of it, rebuilding these days is not the same as 20-30 years ago.
 
I have a really obscure question that I can’t answer with my Google research. I’m replacing the rear springs in my wife’s Q7, and would like to know what kind of steel they used for the springs. Typically older springs are 5160 or 1095, but I have no idea these are. I’m going to make knives out of the old ones, and need to know the technical details for the quench and tempering. If anyone happens to know, it would be great, otherwise I’ll need to go down the rabbit hole of calling Audi to try to find someone that knows. Thanks!
 
Captain Brainstorm said:
I have a really obscure question that I can’t answer with my Google research. I’m replacing the rear springs in my wife’s Q7, and would like to know what kind of steel they used for the springs. Typically older springs are 5160 or 1095, but I have no idea these are. I’m going to make knives out of the old ones, and need to know the technical details for the quench and tempering. If anyone happens to know, it would be great, otherwise I’ll need to go down the rabbit hole of calling Audi to try to find someone that knows. Thanks!
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Probably an impossible metric to find.
 
Captain Brainstorm said:
I have a really obscure question that I can’t answer with my Google research. I’m replacing the rear springs in my wife’s Q7, and would like to know what kind of steel they used for the springs. Typically older springs are 5160 or 1095, but I have no idea these are. I’m going to make knives out of the old ones, and need to know the technical details for the quench and tempering. If anyone happens to know, it would be great, otherwise I’ll need to go down the rabbit hole of calling Audi to try to find someone that knows. Thanks!
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Did this help? Maybe @Dave Taylor can help?

www.weldinghandbook.com

Metal Identification Tests: Methods & Tips On How to Identify Metals

How to identify metals. Metal identification tests that can be performed in any metal shop. Surface, color, spark, chip, magnetic, hardness and other tests.
www.weldinghandbook.com www.weldinghandbook.com
 
Patrick said:
Did this help? Maybe @Dave Taylor can help?

www.weldinghandbook.com

Metal Identification Tests: Methods & Tips On How to Identify Metals

How to identify metals. Metal identification tests that can be performed in any metal shop. Surface, color, spark, chip, magnetic, hardness and other tests.
www.weldinghandbook.com www.weldinghandbook.com
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No clue besides "spring steel" that is not really weldable. Maybe search some knife makers on IG like @radknives. I will tell you that in general steel today sucks to steel off 20 years ago. Probably due to recycling and china holding the quality control aspect almost exclusively as they bought almost all of the iron ore over the last 2 decades.
 
Dave Taylor said:
No clue besides "spring steel" that is not really weldable. Maybe search some knife makers on IG like @radknives. I will tell you that in general steel today sucks to steel off 20 years ago. Probably due to recycling and china holding the quality control aspect almost exclusively as they bought almost all of the iron ore over the last 2 decades.
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You can still find some decent billet, but it will cost you, check out the NJ Steel Baron. I’m always on the lookout for old saw blades, so hard to find now. They were made out of L6 which is a great steel for making knives.
 
Captain Brainstorm said:
You can still find some decent billet, but it will cost you, check out the NJ Steel Baron. I’m always on the lookout for old saw blades, so hard to find now. They were made out of L6 which is a great steel for making knives.
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If you ask me about steel grades I am limited..hardox, a36 a52 ar400 ar 500t1 blah blah
 
Question that I know there's no good answer to. Any recommendations for dealing with rust on wheel studs? When I did the brakes on my car I wire wheeled the studs, but, as expected, it didn't take long for the rust to return. I don't really want to use anything that's going to significantly interfere with torque values. There are various rust converters, but most seem to require painting over them to prevent the return of the corrosion, which isn't really going to work on wheel studs.
 
ebarker9 said:
Question that I know there's no good answer to. Any recommendations for dealing with rust on wheel studs? When I did the brakes on my car I wire wheeled the studs, but, as expected, it didn't take long for the rust to return. I don't really want to use anything that's going to significantly interfere with torque values. There are various rust converters, but most seem to require painting over them to prevent the return of the corrosion, which isn't really going to work on wheel studs.
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could always hit them with a little bit of NeverSeize and proceed to look like the tinman when you're done.

tinman-wizard-of-oz.gif
 
if its not interfering with wheel removal i wouldnt even worry about it.

but i do put anti-sieze on all of mine and dont bother de-rating the torque value, the difference is not significant enough to matter on the large wheel studs as long as you are just using a torque wrench to tighten them up (if you just go full send nascar style your experience may be different)
 
Only time I consider anti sieze is with open end lug nuts other wise it's 3 ugga duggas and out the door... Unless you have wheel locks in that case I use a torque wrench but I strongly advise tossing those in the trash anyway.

Anti sieze is not designed to aid in torque values. A specific grease like arp sells is what you would want for that but on lug nuts the torque value is not super critical so the difference would be minor.
 
PXL_20230403_181214237.jpg

No functional issue but cosmetically looks pretty awful (new center caps wouldn't be a bad idea either). I have new lug nuts as well.
 
ebarker9 said:
View attachment 210765

No functional issue but cosmetically looks pretty awful (new center caps wouldn't be a bad idea either). I have new lug nuts as well.
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I don't think any type of rust removal process would be a long term solution without a further coating it would just come back. I'm surprised they don't have covers, I'm also surprised they arent lug studs with a chrome or satin finish.

What are other porch guys doing? I'm sure this has irked someone enough for them to come up with a good solution even though it probably complicated and over engineered.
 
02camaro said:
I don't think any type of rust removal process would be a long term solution without a further coating it would just come back. I'm surprised they don't have covers, I'm also surprised they arent lug studs with a chrome or satin finish.

What are other porch guys doing? I'm sure this has irked someone enough for them to come up with a good solution even though it probably complicated and over engineered.
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There are a bunch of Rennlist threads on this topic, which seem to have similar conclusions to what's been discussed here. There are aftermarket caps, but they seem to get pretty mixed reviews.

Most of the newer cars have lug bolts (this one included), so it's generally not too bad to keep them looking ok or replace occasionally. The person that I bought this car from installed wheel spacers, hence the studs/nuts. When the time comes for new tires, I'd probably get a new set of wheels and ditch the spacers. Currently the tire options are very, very limited in the OEM sizes (205/55-R17, 235/50-R17) so it would be a chance to address that as well. I like some of the options from Apex but $$$ :

51719179125_de64543e5c_b.jpg
 
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