Ask an automobile mechanic.

i dont have any experience with the jeep air bag setup specifically, but my truck (ram, so its probalby a pretty similar system) had an option for the air suspension (i didnt get it) and when im shopping monroe makes shocks that specifically say 'for air suspension' or 'for coil spring' so i would expect that something is out there.

you could also check the p/n with the same vehicle with standard coil springs and see if its the same as yours, if so you have an answer.
 
Radiator fan is on when I start it up and stays on for some time, even in the cold weather. My mechanic says its most likely the water pump which I figured was the problem. He suggested to the change the thermostat and something else I don't remember. It's an older E60, does it need to be fixed or will it lead to much worse if ignored. I don't want to sink much more money on the car as we'll get a replacement next year if the car supply chain improves.
 
start it up implies engine running . . . (i assume its coming on at a cold start i.e. first thing in the morning)

is the fan electric or clutch driven? when you drive it what does the temp gauge do? does it stay where it belongs or does it overheat?

if clutch driven it is likely just the clutch (which is the piece that attaches it to the water pump) and can usually be replaced seperately.

If it is electric i would say there is a problem with the temp sensor or relay that control it.

if you do end up replacing the water pump i concur with the suggestion to replace the t-stat with it since you will have already drained the coolant.
 
Should be able to disconnect the temperature sensor (I assume it's all electronic, no clutch ) and the fan should shutoff. If it does it's most likely just the temperature sensor.

Which if the car is running OK I'd probably not screw with anything. Could start trying to replace the thermostat and all the old brittle plastic other parts could snap/break which seems to be the common issue with older BMWs..
 
qclabrat said:
Radiator fan is on when I start it up and stays on for some time, even in the cold weather. My mechanic says its most likely the water pump which I figured was the problem. He suggested to the change the thermostat and something else I don't remember. It's an older E60, does it need to be fixed or will it lead to much worse if ignored. I don't want to sink much more money on the car as we'll get a replacement next year if the car supply chain improves.
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Is there any other evidence that its the water pump? This doesn't really sound like a water pump issue to me.

Leaks? Steam?
Overheating?
Noises?
Rust/corrosion in the coolant loop?

From my 2m research the E60 has an electric water pump. Have any codes been generated for this? As its electric there should be circuit codes available, if there was a circuit fault. I know other makes have a coolant system blockage code that can happen with a failed water pump. Should be pretty simple to diagnose the water pump both electrically and physically.

If you start the engine cold, and open the coolant tank, do you see it flowing (after it heats up, thermostat needs time to open)? Check the circuit integrity, both signaling and power? Is it pulling amperage? It also looks like some BMW models with a electric coolant system have a "bleed procedure" that can be used to test it. Probably need a BMW scan tool, but I haven't looked that far into it.

If you can get a BMW compatible scan tool on this you can look into other modules and see if any codes are present. I don't think a normal OBD scanner would be enough for this. The scan tool will also show temp inputs of the coolant temp sensor and any additional temp sensors.
 
Bisquick said:
Is there any other evidence that its the water pump? This doesn't really sound like a water pump issue to me.

Leaks? Steam?
Overheating?
Noises?
Rust/corrosion in the coolant loop?

From my 2m research the E60 has an electric water pump. Have any codes been generated for this? As its electric there should be circuit codes available, if there was a circuit fault. I know other makes have a coolant system blockage code that can happen with a failed water pump. Should be pretty simple to diagnose the water pump both electrically and physically.

If you start the engine cold, and open the coolant tank, do you see it flowing (after it heats up, thermostat needs time to open)? Check the circuit integrity, both signaling and power? Is it pulling amperage? It also looks like some BMW models with a electric coolant system have a "bleed procedure" that can be used to test it. Probably need a BMW scan tool, but I haven't looked that far into it.

If you can get a BMW compatible scan tool on this you can look into other modules and see if any codes are present. I don't think a normal OBD scanner would be enough for this. The scan tool will also show temp inputs of the coolant temp sensor and any additional temp sensors.
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good point, I was low on coolant a few weeks back per the car computer. Topped off with Zerex G05 and didn't think anything of it till now. Found a bleed procedure on the interwebz and will give it a try tomorrow as my mechanic didn't have time to work on my car till Friday. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Vent-Bleed+Coolant+System+on+BMW+E60-E90/119268
 
so my truck has been making some noise the last couple weeks (clanging/banging sound, intermittently and only audible at idle (vehicle stationary)
would quiet down some when the engine was warmed up.


my diagnostics lead me to try running it without the serpentine belt on it (dead silence) ok time to pull the stethescope. fortunately it was making noises for me at the time. pulleys all sounded acceptable, but the same nose came through the a/c as i was hearing. ok, must be the a/c. Then noticed it was only making nosie when the a/c was off . . . hmmmmm. Also was noticable that the clutch would catch and step its way around when the clutch was released and the pulley was running out of true (but barely noticable and not consistent). Ok well pulley bearings seem like the most likely culprit.

A day of googling later and almost giving up and sending it to a shop for a new a/c compressor i find the clutch repair kit (new clutch, pulley, bearing ect). Also ordered a new belt and a tensioner since it sounded a little off with the stethescope and i aint pulling the fan shroud out again in the winter if this thing decides to go mid winter.

1669925992806.png
got around to putting it on the truck today and this is what i found, basically in order.

1669926036893.png
1669926068380.png

then needed the bearing puller to get the pulley off the compressor stub

1669926083204.png
1669926110226.png

compressor stub looked good tho (thankfully)
1669926124148.png

closeup of blowed up bearing for those following along
1669926138353.png



also used this excuse to buy a set of snap ring pliers, but noise is gonzo
 
shrpshtr325 said:
so my truck has been making some noise the last couple weeks (clanging/banging sound, intermittently and only audible at idle (vehicle stationary)
would quiet down some when the engine was warmed up.


my diagnostics lead me to try running it without the serpentine belt on it (dead silence) ok time to pull the stethescope. fortunately it was making noises for me at the time. pulleys all sounded acceptable, but the same nose came through the a/c as i was hearing. ok, must be the a/c. Then noticed it was only making nosie when the a/c was off . . . hmmmmm. Also was noticable that the clutch would catch and step its way around when the clutch was released and the pulley was running out of true (but barely noticable and not consistent). Ok well pulley bearings seem like the most likely culprit.

A day of googling later and almost giving up and sending it to a shop for a new a/c compressor i find the clutch repair kit (new clutch, pulley, bearing ect). Also ordered a new belt and a tensioner since it sounded a little off with the stethescope and i aint pulling the fan shroud out again in the winter if this thing decides to go mid winter.

View attachment 201394
got around to putting it on the truck today and this is what i found, basically in order.

View attachment 201395
View attachment 201396

then needed the bearing puller to get the pulley off the compressor stub

View attachment 201397
View attachment 201398

compressor stub looked good tho (thankfully)
View attachment 201399

closeup of blowed up bearing for those following along
View attachment 201400



also used this excuse to buy a set of snap ring pliers, but noise is gonzo
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I think you could have re-greased it and put it back in. But hey, it's your money.
 
I have a slow leak in one of my tires, about 4psi/week. Tires have 2yo/20k miles and about 30% even wear. I took it to a reputable shop to have them check it - submerged in tank, dismount/remount, clean wheel rim, new valve, etc - they couldn't find anything and admitted this. So, can I dump some MTB tire sealant in there and see if it plugs up the leak path?
 
one piece crank said:
I have a slow leak in one of my tires, about 4psi/week. Tires have 2yo/20k miles and about 30% even wear. I took it to a reputable shop to have them check it - submerged in tank, dismount/remount, clean wheel rim, new valve, etc - they couldn't find anything and admitted this. So, can I dump some MTB tire sealant in there and see if it plugs up the leak path?
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i honestly dont see it hurting anything. the only one who might tell you not to do it is the guy who has to take it off and get splashed with it later on.
 
one piece crank said:
I have a slow leak in one of my tires, about 4psi/week. Tires have 2yo/20k miles and about 30% even wear. I took it to a reputable shop to have them check it - submerged in tank, dismount/remount, clean wheel rim, new valve, etc - they couldn't find anything and admitted this. So, can I dump some MTB tire sealant in there and see if it plugs up the leak path?
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I have put some stans in a tire once....but fix a flat is probably easier since its pressurized.
 
one piece crank said:
I have a slow leak in one of my tires, about 4psi/week. Tires have 2yo/20k miles and about 30% even wear. I took it to a reputable shop to have them check it - submerged in tank, dismount/remount, clean wheel rim, new valve, etc - they couldn't find anything and admitted this. So, can I dump some MTB tire sealant in there and see if it plugs up the leak path?
Click to expand...
I've added it to my tubed wheel barrow tire and it sealed a leak temporarily. Sealant was present in some of the dry rot cracks. Eventually I just replaced the wheel barrow and was still holding air. I would think you'd be ok if you don't have TPMS valves.
 
JDurk said:
I've added it to my tubed wheel barrow tire and it sealed a leak temporarily. Sealant was present in some of the dry rot cracks. Eventually I just replaced the wheel barrow and was still holding air. I would think you'd be ok if you don't have TPMS valves.
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Didn't think about TPMS. Is sealant a no-no with TPMS?
 
one piece crank said:
I have a slow leak in one of my tires, about 4psi/week. Tires have 2yo/20k miles and about 30% even wear. I took it to a reputable shop to have them check it - submerged in tank, dismount/remount, clean wheel rim, new valve, etc - they couldn't find anything and admitted this. So, can I dump some MTB tire sealant in there and see if it plugs up the leak path?
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Much easier to top off with air weekly than to possibly throw tire out of balance and have to deal with that .
 
automotive based tire sealants are "supposed" to be tpms safe and don't clog valve stems like mtb sealant does. I don't trust them, I feel the wreck sensors anyway but they say they don't.

You vehicle may not even have a pressure monitor in the wheel/tire, it may use a wheel speed/abs sensor in the hub to calculate pressure (most European models us this). In that case throw whatever you want it.
 
02camaro said:
You vehicle may not even have a pressure monitor in the wheel/tire, it may use a wheel speed/abs sensor in the hub to calculate pressure (most European models us this). In that case throw whatever you want it.
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Any guess what Honda uses? I did notice that transporting the dismounted wheel for service, the TPMS initially sensed the wheel, but minutes into driving it errored-out.
 
one piece crank said:
Any guess what Honda uses? I did notice that transporting the dismounted wheel for service, the TPMS initially sensed the wheel, but minutes into driving it errored-out.
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Probably sensor but without exact vehicle info that's just a guess.

I'd still use a automotive sealant, it's optimized for the application. There's a reason we use stans not car stuff in our bikes.
 
one piece crank said:
Any guess what Honda uses? I did notice that transporting the dismounted wheel for service, the TPMS initially sensed the wheel, but minutes into driving it errored-out.
Click to expand...

if you have the actual pressure readout in the dash you have a sensor. I dont think the euro style that use the speed sensor can tell HOW low the tire is(or even how much air is actually in the tire), just that it is lower than its peers. and its done by comparing the differences in rotational speed while driving.
 
I just replaced the DRL/Hi-beams bulbs on my daily driver with LEDs (9005). Now the DRL won't come on but the hi-beams work. The original bulbs were halogens. Do I need to go back to halogens to get the DRLs to work or is there a special kind of LED bulbs I need to get to perform both functions? Or maybe go to HIDs? I have another vehicle that has the same DRL/Hi-beams combo using halogens I want to upgrade but need to sort this out first.
 
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