Just dealing with TPMS issues with my wife’s civic, if I have it correctly, they used wheel sensors until 2012-13
Ask an automobile mechanic.
- Thread starter Patrick
- Start date
Some cars have a separate DRL bulb, others send less power to the regular bulbs. LED's and HID's will have a tough time with the lower power and usually just won't ignite. I've seen some kits you can buy, not sure if car specific but likely, that probably trick them into sending full power. Or just always have your headlights on, though not sure that would be an issue with inspection if DRL are required by law. Not sure on that one.
w_b
Well-Known Member
can confirm; at least on inherited '09 CRV, TPMS will illuminate for both under- and over-pressure. Never saw that before; I was like, WTF, plenty of pressure all 4.....
DRL in a shared bulb is a low voltage signal, not enough to trigger the LED to illuminate. AFAIK they are not required in NJ (my 22 doesnt have them) so if it were me i would just run without them, no harm/no foul
EDIT: @Magic beat me to it . . ..
Kaleidopete
Well-Known Member
oil drain plug replacement for my Mustang, 2019 Coyote.
Car comes with a plastic plug with an O ring on it , I see I can get an aluminum one for 5 times the price.
the plastic ones should be replaced at every oil change so says Ford, but not all oil change places do that.
The Ford dealer I bought the car at offers cheap oil changes at their quick lube center next to the dealership.
so I pay $58 for an oil change with filter, but they don't adhere to Fords rule of changing the plug, they reuse the old one.
The dealer themselves charge $220 for their oil change and filter that includes a new plug.
My last oil change was 700 miles ago and today the old plug was leaking. went back to the lube place and they replaced the plug with a new one.
only charging me $10 for the new plug. Think I should get the aluminum one which lasts, or keep getting cheap plastic replacements?
Car comes with a plastic plug with an O ring on it , I see I can get an aluminum one for 5 times the price.
the plastic ones should be replaced at every oil change so says Ford, but not all oil change places do that.
The Ford dealer I bought the car at offers cheap oil changes at their quick lube center next to the dealership.
so I pay $58 for an oil change with filter, but they don't adhere to Fords rule of changing the plug, they reuse the old one.
The dealer themselves charge $220 for their oil change and filter that includes a new plug.
My last oil change was 700 miles ago and today the old plug was leaking. went back to the lube place and they replaced the plug with a new one.
only charging me $10 for the new plug. Think I should get the aluminum one which lasts, or keep getting cheap plastic replacements?
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is the oil pan plastic? the nut may be made to fail before the pan, cause the tech doesn't make that much either........
Kaleidopete
Well-Known Member
yes, a plastic pan
Plastic. Buy a dozen and bring one to the shitty dealer each oil change.
THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
@Johnny Utah hey you Jeepers what do you think about the underside condition of this 130k mile JKUR? All other aspects look pretty good except for the very hard to open passenger rear door. I probably should pass unless I negotiate hard based on this underside but opinions are appreciated.
skully
Active Member
It doesn't look tooooo bad ....but I really depends on the asking price
THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
Johnny Utah
Well-Known Member
So that has had a couple of trips out on the rocks, I can tell by the bent brackets. In addition, the surface rust tells me it has visited the Pine Barrens/Stag Hill or something similar multiple times then was not washed. It will probably be fine for years, but we are starting to see Jeeps that had that kind of use have frame rot from the inside out. Sand/mud gets trapped in the frame and then holds moisture - this causes frame rot. I have several buddies that fix this issue on multiple Jeeps a month, but they are just starting to see JK’s vs the usual lineup of TJ’s & LJ’s.
Depending on what you are looking to do you should be able to get a better deal on that vs a clean JKUR given the underside. Also, if you can look for one with a 3.6 instead of a 3.8 - much more power. If you buy a 2012 check to see the head has already been warrantied as the 2012s had head issues.
Rear door could be internal linkage, or a touch of a tweak from lots of flexing or a tough hit. No biggie once you are used to it.
Rubicon is a nice place to start for a 35-37” tire build. They are very capable off the lot - a new one is now in the $70-$80k range last time I was on the lot. I think my next build will be a JKU on Dana 60’s and 40’s set up to cruise/camp the US. They are a great platform, especially for family wheeling.
Let us know what you do!
THATmanMANNY
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Over the last few years I’ve looked at 5 or so wranglers so apparently I want one but they aren’t in the shape I would like. Again, I’ll hold off on this one but I’ll offer something low to fish the seller along. If they bite then we will have problems at this house haha
-so can a wrangler in this shape be cleaned up and get a rust treatment on the surface and inside rails?
-I’m looking at 2012 and newer because of the interior refresh but interesting you say about the 3.8 and it would be mostly for road use.
-thanks about the head issue! My research says if it was bad it would have happened already and that later 2012s had the problem fixed? I’ll look the the door sticker from now on for production date
I’m also interested in the Rubicons because of the higher tow rating. I would get a Gladiator to replace my pickup but it (wrangler or gladiator) would mostly sit so not worth the money.
-so can a wrangler in this shape be cleaned up and get a rust treatment on the surface and inside rails?
-I’m looking at 2012 and newer because of the interior refresh but interesting you say about the 3.8 and it would be mostly for road use.
-thanks about the head issue! My research says if it was bad it would have happened already and that later 2012s had the problem fixed? I’ll look the the door sticker from now on for production date
I’m also interested in the Rubicons because of the higher tow rating. I would get a Gladiator to replace my pickup but it (wrangler or gladiator) would mostly sit so not worth the money.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
My kid's 2015 Tiguan seemed to have died at the school lot. Figured it was the battery so went to give it a jump. No luck as it wouldn't hold charge and being the battery was over 5 years old, replaced. Afterwards still no luck, hear the starter ignition but won't kick over. Saw a low oil pressure indicator after a few tries and upon checking the oil, see it was very low. Luckily had a quart in my car but after adding the quart, still no success and dip stick still shows low. Going home to get more Mobile1 and hope the engine is not seized. The kid got to school fine, just wouldn't start when ready to leave. Anyone aware if VWs prevent starting if oil levels are very low?
JonFern
Formerly: send jon ferns
So it cranks but no start? How many miles? Turn the key to the “on” position, do you hear the in-tank lift pump priming (underneath the back seat)? Do you have a generic code reader? Won’t be as helpful as VCDS but could be a start
If the pump checks out, I recommend scanning it. Happy to stop by if you’re local-ish. My bet is crank sensor - had a similar intermittent issue on my GF’s Tiguan.
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qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Yes, cranks but no start. Just under 100k. No reader but seems like an investment soon. I do hear a lifting sound in the back. Thanks for the offer but too far out west for you. Recently had the engine harness replaced so this will be another dent in the bills...
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
Bad news for the kid, mechanic checked the compression and found it low. Thinks the engine needing replacing. Anyone know a good VW shop near the North Plainfield area for a second opinion? A few I called are quoting $4k-5k for a used motor with 100k miles and another $1500-2k for labor.
onetracker
Well-Known Member
Wow. That seems like a big leap. Compression is how low and in how many cyl? Any cracks: head or block? Why not rebuild the current motor? I would buy a code scanner, scan the codes before spending $6K+; code scanners are handy even if this motor is toast. Depending on where you are located, you can borrow my code reader (north jersey). You may also be better off buying him some cheap transportation and write this off if the motor is terminal. Good luck!
One last thought, check the coolant overflow tank. Does it look like chocolate milk (like oil is mixing with the coolant)? If the car has a blown head gasket, that could account for low oil at the dipstick and low compression. Many theories.
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this is bs - the car doesn't go from running ok to not being able to start w/dx it is the motor unless something catastrophic -
which usually doesn't happen after it is turned off unless it seized - which it didn't.
even a cracked block will backfire or make some sort of explosion in a good cylinder.
you had a dead battery as the initial symptom ???
unhook the battery cable for a night, then reconnect the next day on a full charge.
(i'm stabbing blind - but something is up)
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