Anyone know VW's?

Scalpeler

Scalpeler

New Member
Long story short, i have been back and forth with the dealership about an issue they always seem to "fix" temporarily after it costs us $800+ each time it reoccurs (this is 3rd time its happening after being fixed twice).

Basically, the issue is there is a baulk or borderline stall when initially accelerating and sometimes in mid travel between 1500 and 2000 rpm. Its not O2 sensors, just replaced. Cant find cpu issue. Last time they disconnected the battery, and reset the cpu and it resolved itself for about 2 months.

To remedy this, while driving, you have to back off the gas and reaccelerate. Our family VW specialist (actual vw specific mechanic) cant figure it out and dealership is literally wrapping their proverbial fingers on the desk as every $105 hour ticks by as they try and figure out whats going on.

Oh, its a 2005 Toureg v6.

I have tried every avenue i can think of and am ready to set the car on fire as a last resort. My lady is 8 months prego and little Buddy is literally knocking on the door and i am desperate to get this resolved.

Any insights, recommendations, or anything are welcomed warmly and if they work ill glady buy you a six pack or a gallon of your favorite ice cream.

Thanks in advance.

Buddy

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I'm assuming you have asked on the vw forums like vwvortex already?
Have the plugs been replaced recently? You may also want to try a different vw dealer. The variations in the know how and troubleshooting skills can vary widely from one dealership to another.
I don't have direct experience with that engine but a friend of mine had a lot of issues with intermittent coil packs on his 3L v6 jetta.
 
+1 I would scour the forums if you havent already.

Checking the coils sounds like a good guess to me. Just had the same problem on my BMW, was simple to check which one was bad (disconnect one then see if you detect any difference in idle). Replaced the coil myself for around $35.

Tim
 
Scalpeler said:
Long story short, i have been back and forth with the dealership about an issue they always seem to "fix" temporarily after it costs us $800+ each time it reoccurs (this is 3rd time its happening after being fixed twice).

Basically, the issue is there is a baulk or borderline stall when initially accelerating and sometimes in mid travel between 1500 and 2000 rpm. Its not O2 sensors, just replaced. Cant find cpu issue. Last time they disconnected the battery, and reset the cpu and it resolved itself for about 2 months.

To remedy this, while driving, you have to back off the gas and reaccelerate. Our family VW specialist (actual vw specific mechanic) cant figure it out and dealership is literally wrapping their proverbial fingers on the desk as every $105 hour ticks by as they try and figure out whats going on.

Oh, its a 2005 Toureg v6.

I have tried every avenue i can think of and am ready to set the car on fire as a last resort. My lady is 8 months prego and little Buddy is literally knocking on the door and i am desperate to get this resolved.

Any insights, recommendations, or anything are welcomed warmly and if they work ill glady buy you a six pack or a gallon of your favorite ice cream.

Thanks in advance.

Buddy

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

I've seen a ton of trouble with the throttle bodies on the vw's for one reason or another. Any fault codes (check engine light) set? Possibly a trans issue?
I'll see if there are any tsb's tomorrow when I get to work.

Which dealer...I've heard varying results depending.
 
Had something similar happening years ago with a jetta. I think it may have been the computer which operated the fuel injection. Because of safety concerns I told the dealer I did not want the car back until they found the problem. The car was shutting off at 60 mph!

They never found the problem. I took the car to the Subaru dealer and traded it in for a Subaru. Have not had a problem since.

VW's are known for electrical issues. Same thing happened to a co-worker and she ended up trading it in for a Subaru as well.

You might not be in a situation to buy a new car, but you have to prioritize your safety. Dealers are giving some great deals on used cars and trad-ins.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all of the great feedback. There was a tsb on the cpu. Which is why it ended up at the dealership in the first place. Our family mech did not have the device/tool to address the tsb for the computer.

So i took it to the dealer specifically asking him to address on the tsb to remedy the baulk but the dealer was insisting it wasnt the issue. So they never addressed it. I had words with the service manager about not addressing this but he insisted the issue was resolved and the truck ran fine for the last two months. In the end they said disconnecting and reconnecting the battery solved the issue.

Throttle body was one of the first things that popped in my head the last time this happened and family mech eliminated that as a possible. He came across the tsb and said that has to be the issue.

I am the proud satisfied owner of a subaru and my fiance loves my car. I disconnected the battery last night and reset the cpu and took her car w me this morning to work and it drove fine.

I will be visiting my good friend down at Miller Subaru to discuss a few options.

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TSB "0105-15 DEC 05 Campaign - PROM Update for Misfire DTC's/Runs Rough"

Seems to me you need to take it to a different dealer. I always liked VWs, will never buy one.
 
Lots of misfire related bulletins (however we don't always get all the european stuff), did you ever have any fault codes stored or check engine light on?

Strangely, lots of stuff regarding fuel issues...either the thing is very sensitive to which fuel you use or it's a cover for deeper issues. Throw some Techron in the tank, run some premium Sunoco or Amoco through it and see what happens for a cheap attempt. VW actually comes out and says to look almost anywhere BUT the coils for misfire issues. Hmm.
 
extremedave said:
Lots of misfire related bulletins (however we don't always get all the european stuff), did you ever have any fault codes stored or check engine light on?

Strangely, lots of stuff regarding fuel issues...either the thing is very sensitive to which fuel you use or it's a cover for deeper issues. Throw some Techron in the tank, run some premium Sunoco or Amoco through it and see what happens for a cheap attempt. VW actually comes out and says to look almost anywhere BUT the coils for misfire issues. Hmm.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave. The only codes that came up previously were fir 02 sensors. Had it replaced. No engine light on this time.

So after disconnecting the battery last night, ive driven it to work, took a spin up rt 1 for a ways and back and did loops around my building (American Standard building has an oval asphault track that surrounds the building) and it hasnt baulked or "stalled" once. Basically im getting the same positive results from when the dealership disconnected the battery and resolved the problem.

:banghead::confused::banghead::confused:

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BShow said:
Any cheap attempts that will work for a spun bearing on a Mazda with ~65k miles? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

trade it in on something more reliable?


o sorry, you wanted cheap, nope no cheap fixes for that(at least not that i know of)
 
BShow said:
Any cheap attempts that will work for a spun bearing on a Mazda with ~65k miles? :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Grandpa's secret blend of Marvel Mystery Oil, some 20w50, a little bit of trans fluid and...a tow truck. Kidding, btw.

Honestly, you're best bet is to find a junkyard engine, swap it, and deal the vehicle. Tearing down the engine isn't cost effective unless you're pretty good at it. All this said, I dunno how much value you have left in the car, scrap is up and the boneyard will give you a couple hundred....
Sorry to hear.
 
you probably have it fix by now, but.....

fuel pump?check your fuel preasure when it is happening.i had a toureg v8 come thru my shop as a trade in, same thing was happening.turned out to be the fuel pump i also replaced the fuel filtter at the same time because you have to remove it to get the pump out.
best regards Glenn master audi tech
 
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