What have you done to your bike today?
- Thread starter Chris(NJ)
- Start date
Gorilla is great for non-tubeless ready wheel conversions or if you really need more build up, but it's heavier and it soaks up sealant at the edges getting heavier and leaving boogers. Try Stan's first.
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
If you need a lot of thickness, and Stan's is too expensive, get a couple of rolls of 3M 8898.
huffster
Well-Known Member
@hotsauce
Keep at it. Once you get it set, you've gonna love being tubeless. My tubeless failures have been bead or valve related more than anything.
I'm wondering if your bead is really fully set. A couple tips on that:
1) Soap the tire when you are trying to set the bead. I like to just use some Windex. It lubricates and then dries up pretty well after.
2) When you "think" you have set the bead, make sure. Just because you hear a couple pops it may not be set all around. Most tires have a little seam on the tire and you can closely inspect that it is outside the rim line all the way around on both sides.
Valve related tips:
1) After you tape with Stans, make a small X with a razor above the hole. Small as possible. Just enough that you can poke the valve through since you don't want to effect the integrity of your tape job. Then make that valve real tight on the rim.
2) Some videos will show you to set the bead and then break it to add the Stans. If you have the injector, add it through the valve so you don't have to brake the bead you just fought to set.
Good luck!
Keep at it. Once you get it set, you've gonna love being tubeless. My tubeless failures have been bead or valve related more than anything.
I'm wondering if your bead is really fully set. A couple tips on that:
1) Soap the tire when you are trying to set the bead. I like to just use some Windex. It lubricates and then dries up pretty well after.
2) When you "think" you have set the bead, make sure. Just because you hear a couple pops it may not be set all around. Most tires have a little seam on the tire and you can closely inspect that it is outside the rim line all the way around on both sides.
Valve related tips:
1) After you tape with Stans, make a small X with a razor above the hole. Small as possible. Just enough that you can poke the valve through since you don't want to effect the integrity of your tape job. Then make that valve real tight on the rim.
2) Some videos will show you to set the bead and then break it to add the Stans. If you have the injector, add it through the valve so you don't have to brake the bead you just fought to set.
Good luck!
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Valve core remover here is key...
Race ready....
Looks like a first place bike.
not today, but i replaced the outer bearing races on my front road bike hub on saturday . . . no more gravelly feeling as i ride around!
A little upgrade on the Dragonslayer.
Preowned 120mm fox 34 and carbon bars.
Preowned 120mm fox 34 and carbon bars.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
very nice, which shock did you use?
Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
Xfusion vector air hlr with needle bearing conversion on top mount
hotsauce
Well-Known Member
pedals are WELLGO RC-713 - inexpensive, one sided, spd mtb style road. I haven't picked a road pedal style yet. I may move the ultegra spd off the other bike - a bit more platform, and lighter.
Let me get some miles on etap, and get it dialed in a bit more. Needs some micro adjustments, which i read-up on last night.
First impression of e-shifting: fantastic. the short throw to shift, the alternate paradigm, no micro adjustment. Need to get a handle on battery life. Apparently the derailleurs have a vibration sensor,
so the radio will not sleep if riding around in the car with the bike. Remove batteries for longer trips?
I'd love to get ETap on next road bike... the Di2 on my CX bike is amazing.... I like the swapability of the batteries on ETap if one goes dead. Taking batteries off for car trips makes sense if that is the case with the vibration sensor, since it's so easy to do.