New here... saying' hello

just checked out pactimo,they got soe good looking kit! hows the fit? race or more of a club fit?

I would definitely say that the fit is race fit, at least in terms of the road stuff. The MTB stuff is a little bit looser, more like a standard MTB fit. If you're looking at any products specifically, let me know. I own almost all of them, or have tried them at some point so I can probably advise. For reference, I'm 5'8", 165 pounds and I wear a medium in everything that I have form them, except for the MTB shorts, which I wear a Large because my quads were too tight.

I'll pm you with my friends and family coupon code for 30% off.
 
Got out for a lap of 6Mile yesterday afternoon with some buddies and had so much fun.

On the suggestion from a few members here, I tried lowering my seat post a little bit. It definitely did help a little when trying to get back on the bike, but I still feel like I might prefer to just go the dropper route. I'll have to ride a little bit more as-is. I also swapped to some good flat pedals for this ride and I'm really happy with that decision. I felt way more confident, knowing that I could hop off in an instant. On some of the more technical spots, I stayed on the pedals longer, continuing to try... compared to last week when I hopped off because I was too worried about being able to get unclipped.

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Last week, on December 30th, I gathered up some Fatbike friends for a little adventure ride. We met at Johnson Park in New Brunswick/Piscataway at 8 am and headed south on the D&R Canal to Princeton. In the morning, the dirt section from New Brunswick to South Bound Brook was frozen, by 1 in the afternoon, as we returned, it was thawed out and was thoroughly muddy. I'm pretty certain in saying that at the end of the ride, I was muddier than ever been in my life. All in all, it was a 54 mile round, trip. We had fun and smiled for most of the day.

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OK.. so this is not MTB at all, but I thought maybe some here would enjoy. I recently did some custom work on my Allez. I stripped it all down with some aircraft stripper, to the bare aluminum, brushed the finish with some steel wool and then applied the decals before having it clear-coated. I swapped the fork from a standard Tarmac 10r carbon fork to the S-Works Tarmac 11r carbon fork. I also swapped the components, which were a mix of 105/ultegra to Dura-ace 9000. I am super stoked with how it came out.

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OK.. so this is not MTB at all, but I thought maybe some here would enjoy. I recently did some custom work on my Allez. I stripped it all down with some aircraft stripper, to the bare aluminum, brushed the finish with some steel wool and then applied the decals before having it clear-coated. I swapped the fork from a standard Tarmac 10r carbon fork to the S-Works Tarmac 11r carbon fork. I also swapped the components, which were a mix of 105/ultegra to Dura-ace 9000. I am super stoked with how it came out.
Nice job! and welcome aboard.
 
OK... again, not an MTB post, but something cool. This past season, I won the season cup for the cat 4/5 Non-TT class in the NJBA TT Cup. Next year, its on to bigger and better things, so i put together a true TT rig, an S-Works Shiv TT. Its got a ton of custom work and I'm so pumped to race it next year.
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OK... here's some MTB news. Picked up a Specialized RipRock 20" for my son... he's turning 7 this week and the 16" HotRock he had was getting too small. There's lots of new stuff for him to get used to on this bike... 7 speed 1x drivetrain, disc brakes w/ hand levers (his previous bike was a coaster brake) and now he's got a front suspension fork with 2.8" wide mid-fat 20" wheels and tires. This bike is so awesome and he was so stoked to get it. We're going out to PA for a 10 mile trail ride with my Dad next weekend and I'm hoping to get him out to 6MR and Rutgers Eco-Preserve at some point this fall to explore some trails.

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This weekend was New (to me) Bike Day... picked up this 2015 Fuse Comp 6Fattie late last week and hit Harts & Huber on Sunday morning. It was definitely a much different feel from the Fatty. The weight difference in the wheels was noticeable. The front fork was also pretty rad. there was a little bit of a learning curve there, because it felt much different at first, but I was starting to get used to it toward the end and really liked how it just ate up some of the chattery roots and stuff on downhill sections that would normally have the fatty bouncing around underneath me.

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OK... again, not an MTB post, but something cool. This past season, I won the season cup for the cat 4/5 Non-TT class in the NJBA TT Cup. Next year, its on to bigger and better things, so i put together a true TT rig, an S-Works Shiv TT. Its got a ton of custom work and I'm so pumped to race it next year.
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Really cool Shiv! Is that a TT-specific derailleur? Looks like it has huge pulley cogs on it.
 
Really cool Shiv! Is that a TT-specific derailleur? Looks like it has huge pulley cogs on it.

Not necessarily TT specific... some people do run them on regular road bikes. It is a Ceramicspeed OSPS (over-size pulley system). The pulley wheels themselves spin on ceramic speed bearings, so there's very, very little drag. The reason they are oversize is because forcing the chain to bend more tightly around smaller pulleys is not as efficient. TT's are all bout being as efficient and fast as you can, with the power you have.

If you watch the professional racers that specialize in TT's, you'll see that many of them will often run a 55 or 56 tooth chainring... most people, incorrectly, assume that that they do this to get more top end speed (a 55x11 combo will be faster than a 53x11 combo, assuming they've got the power to turn that gear) but actually, this isn't why they do it. They're choosing the bigger chainrings because they've researched the course and know that the 55 tooth chainring will keep them in the 15 or 16 tooth cog on the cassette for as much of the course as possible. This actually is more efficient in 2 ways. 1. It means they have a straighter chain line... that angled bend in the chain is eating up precious watts. 2. The 55x16 combo means that the chain isn't bending as tightly as it would if the rider was riding a 53x13, saving more watts.

This is all pretty nit-picky stuff for sure, but that's the name of the game for TT's... its about being aware of all of the little things that save speed and make you go as fast as possible.
 
Not necessarily TT specific... some people do run them on regular road bikes. It is a Ceramicspeed OSPS (over-size pulley system). The pulley wheels themselves spin on ceramic speed bearings, so there's very, very little drag. The reason they are oversize is because forcing the chain to bend more tightly around smaller pulleys is not as efficient. TT's are all bout being as efficient and fast as you can, with the power you have.

If you watch the professional racers that specialize in TT's, you'll see that many of them will often run a 55 or 56 tooth chainring... most people, incorrectly, assume that that they do this to get more top end speed (a 55x11 combo will be faster than a 53x11 combo, assuming they've got the power to turn that gear) but actually, this isn't why they do it. They're choosing the bigger chainrings because they've researched the course and know that the 55 tooth chainring will keep them in the 15 or 16 tooth cog on the cassette for as much of the course as possible. This actually is more efficient in 2 ways. 1. It means they have a straighter chain line... that angled bend in the chain is eating up precious watts. 2. The 55x16 combo means that the chain isn't bending as tightly as it would if the rider was riding a 53x13, saving more watts.

This is all pretty nit-picky stuff for sure, but that's the name of the game for TT's... its about being aware of all of the little things that save speed and make you go as fast as possible.

and i though it was all about who spent the most $$$ :D

the details are all very cool - thanks for the insight.
are you going to do any wind tunnel work for optimal positioning?
 
and i though it was all about who spent the most $$$ :D

the details are all very cool - thanks for the insight.
are you going to do any wind tunnel work for optimal positioning?

Unfortunately, I don't have the time or money for wind tunnel work. I'll probably be tinkering a little bit more with positioning in the spring, but I think I'm pretty close right now. The biggest thing I've found so far is staying relaxed enough to remember to keep my head down and tucked low. As the stress and effort levels get higher, I realize that I'm moving out of position, but practice on the new bike and getting into some better physical shape should help.
 
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