What nuance of red should have @Pearl paint his 2014 EM SS to get $1500 for it? Let’s debate.

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I opened the package...sorry @Pearl , no video. Front triangle is in perfect condition with the exception of some very light cable rub on the headtube, I'm quite confident it will buff out. Some very light scratches on the top of the seat stays, looks more like handling scratching than actual riding damage. No rust. Very happy with it given the circumstances. The wife likers the color. All if fine.

Is there a specific product to prevent the frame from rusting from the inside? I'd like to treat both frames to prevent any damage.

@jimvreeland can you get me the color code for the 2015 light blue Salsa El Mariachi? Pleeaaase!

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I opened the package...sorry @Pearl , no video. Front triangle is in perfect condition with the exception of some very light cable rub on the headtube, I'm quite confident it will buff out. Some very light scratches on the top of the seat stays, looks more like handling scratching than actual riding damage. No rust. Very happy with it given the circumstances. The wife likers the color. All if fine.

Is there a specific product to prevent the frame from rusting from the inside? I'd like to treat both frames to prevent any damage.

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I opened the package...sorry @Pearl , no video. Front triangle is in perfect condition with the exception of some very light cable rub on the headtube, I'm quite confident it will buff out. Some very light scratches on the top of the seat stays, looks more like handling scratching than actual riding damage. No rust. Very happy with it given the circumstances. The wife likers the color. All if fine.

Is there a specific product to prevent the frame from rusting from the inside? I'd like to treat both frames to prevent any damage.

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My size, how much, I need it more then you. Thanks!
 
It went like this...the phone rings at work, it’s my wife: “honey, there’s a very large box for you. It says fragile...what is it?” I said “it’s a bike frame” she started laughing “another one?”.
A Christmas Story has been playing on Christmas day non-stop.
And no one posted this:
 
I have used it. Seems to work fine. No rust issues, but I had the frame for less than 10 years. You can use the can I have if you want it.
I would appreciate that. Do you think we can arrange for an exchange with your pedals before the end of the year?
 
Thank you. Any direct or by proxy experience?
Have used that and seems to work fine. However it is a freaking mess to deal with.

T9 works really well too and has many other uses. This stuff is basically magic and actually penetrates the metal. It should be used on anything steel on your bike. @jimvreeland will back this up.
 
- I'm looking for the RAL codes for mu Mukluk frame because it had to be repaired and as a result there's a spot that needs matching paint (I was going to leave it just primed but it started bothering me now).

Go to a local hobby shop and get some acrylic paint. I prefer Humbrol. Matter of fact, make friends with the guys there, bring in a sample of the paint in question, and they'll probably go out of their way to set you up with what you need. Want to make it even easier (but not cheaper)? Mix your color, find the appropriate match, then paint a 3x5 card, and bring it to a Maaco/whatever you have near you. They'll make a spray can of paint that is an exact match.

Thank you. Any direct or by proxy experience?

If you ever plan on refinishing a frame (and it sounds kind of like you might?) don't use framesaver. It's a bitch to remove, and it will fuck up powder coating. Paint is okay, but the heat from the powder coat process makes it flow out of the vent holes and ruins the coating.

Have used that and seems to work fine. However it is a freaking mess to deal with.

T9 works really well too and has many other uses. This stuff is basically magic and actually penetrates the metal. It should be used on anything steel on your bike. @jimvreeland will back this up.

I use T9 on saw tables and taps that I don't use for an extended amount of time. True story. Gotta buff it on the saw table, or it sticks...but once you buff it, it's like greased lightning.
 
I am familiar with T9, I wouldn't use it on this specific application because I think it's supposed to protect form rust for a year when kept outdoor, it's been a while since last time I used it on my car parts. I'm looking for something more along the lines of use and forget.

Actually I just got a message from the original owner and he did in fact apply Weigles to the frame, he even mentioned areas where he did not apply it so I think I will use that one as it is in already. No powder coating this frame I guess. That stuff is nasty, I removed the spills from the dropouts yesterday and it took some elbow grease. The paint on this thing is like new (minus the few chips).

I did purchase a color card a few months back, maybe it's time to find where I stashed it!
 
@serviceguy the frame is almost certainly powder coated--framesaver/engine flogging spray isn't a problem for cured powder, it's a problem if you go to apply new stuff (it weeps out and fucks up adherence).
 
@serviceguy the frame is almost certainly powder coated--framesaver/engine flogging spray isn't a problem for cured powder, it's a problem if you go to apply new stuff (it weeps out and fucks up adherence).
That is what I meant, since the frame already the stuff inside it wouldn't be a good idea to have powder coated. I wasn't referring to the existing paint coat, the paint under the excess of framesaver that I removed from the dropout actually still looks like new.

After sandblasting a metal part being powder coated, the big difference in the final quality of the process is the de-gassing stage (or whatever it's called) which is supposed to burn off and get rid of any contaminant on the surface that will be exposed to the powder (or so I was told by the guys that have been doing my powder coating in the past, and yes, I' ve asked how they processed the parts, I am that annoying customer and they've been always gracious enough to entertain my inquiries).

Not everybody executes this stage of the process, I have a few crappy jobs to show as proof of it.

Depending on the amount of framesaver that was used this could be challenging in the specific case of a steel frame, as that stuff may keep oozing out of the frame for a long time. I once tried to burn off the oil residue from a cast iron part that I was going to paint and eventually gave up as oil kept seeping out and contaminate the surface with no end...

If you skip the degassing the seepage would end up on the actual powder once it has been already applied to the part, which I believe is what you were suggesting. I didn't think about that, good tip.
 
Yes, it's miserable. Places that make their living working on bike frames charge you out the behind for that (Spectrum Cycles, for instance).
 
don't agree - i like to hear how tech is applied -
but have to be careful, cause it comes across as a test.
willing to pay for the knowledge too.
 
@serviceguy as a customer:
Asks question
Questions the answer
Repeat ‘x’ times
Does whatever he was thinking before he asked the question
Whatev Kev...

I’m actually really not like that. In case I need something specific I say up front and make it clear that I will pay extra if necessary to have the little additional job. My experience so far is that professional that know what they’re doing and that are charging you for a few or several hours don’t mind using 5 minutes of their time to explain what they’re doing. On the other hand those who haven’t got a clue about what they’re doing tend to have a hard time explaining it away...let’s not talk about those that don’t have a clue but think they do.

Also remember, progress is made questioning conventional wisdom as much as not ignoring it.

Happy New Year!
 
@serviceguy as a customer:
Asks question
Questions the answer
Repeat ‘x’ times
Does whatever he was thinking before he asked the question
Whatev Kev...

I’m actually really not like that. In case I need something specific I say up front and make it clear that I will pay extra if necessary to have the little additional job. My experience so far is that professional that know what they’re doing and that are charging you for a few or several hours don’t mind using 5 minutes of their time to explain what they’re doing. On the other hand those who haven’t got a clue about what they’re doing tend to have a hard time explaining it away...let’s not talk about those that don’t have a clue but think they do.

Also remember, progress is made questioning conventional wisdom as much as not ignoring it.

Happy New Year!

You know within ~60 seconds whether or not someone is wasting your time within your own field of expertise. I've never encountered Leo in person, so I can't speak to that. I'm entirely on his side re: frame painting/powder. I ask to see examples of work--specifically intricate parts--when laying out real money ($500+). Painting/laying powder on a tube junction like a bottom bracket/seat tube cluster is a bitch and a half, and you get exactly what you pay for.

But yeah, if someone is wasting my time, I get a call I need to take (courtesy of one of the coworkers). If it's a phone call, I don't care, since I can still do SOMETHING with a phone on my shoulder.
 
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