What have you done to your car today?

And on the impacts, I've had my Dewalt 1/2 for a few years now and I love it. It's used mainly for tire rotations but has a ton of power for automotive work. Sure beats dragging out the compressor, and it's easy to toss in the car for road trips.
 
Alternator went on the ‘08 Mustang. Went ahead and replaced the belt (which was worn, bottom of grooves shiny), tensioner and idler also. You know, to prevent them from being next to fail. Whelp, new idler is squealing already after a week. No good deed goes unpunished or something.

Wife’s hot rod Lincoln needs front brakes and a hub bearing. Next week’s project, sporty carbon fiber ceramic brake pads and slotted drilled coated rotors on the way. Used the same brakes on the Mustang last year, good stuff. Already put them on the back of the Lincoln and you can feel how much better they work.
 
OddTrickStar said:
Alternator went on the ‘08 Mustang. Went ahead and replaced the belt (which was worn, bottom of grooves shiny), tensioner and idler also. You know, to prevent them from being next to fail. Whelp, new idler is squealing already after a week. No good deed goes unpunished or something.

Wife’s hot rod Lincoln needs front brakes and a hub bearing. Next week’s project, sporty carbon fiber ceramic brake pads and slotted drilled coated rotors on the way. Used the same brakes on the Mustang last year, good stuff. Already put them on the back of the Lincoln and you can feel how much better they work.
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keep an eye on those rotors, the drilled rotors have a habit of cracking around the drill holes.

the pad material is way more important for a strictly street-driven car than the rotor itself, unless you are towing heavy in the hills or have a problem you really dont generate enough heat to notice the improvement from the slotted/drilled rotors.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
keep an eye on those rotors, the drilled rotors have a habit of cracking around the drill holes.

the pad material is way more important for a strictly street-driven car than the rotor itself, unless you are towing heavy in the hills or have a problem you really dont generate enough heat to notice the improvement from the slotted/drilled rotors.
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Or not using 1960's pads that have high gassing issues under heat necessitating holes or slots.

Holes and slots are now just for show and are stress risers. What's important is a good straight casting and a good balance/facing.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
keep an eye on those rotors, the drilled rotors have a habit of cracking around the drill holes.

the pad material is way more important for a strictly street-driven car than the rotor itself, unless you are towing heavy in the hills or have a problem you really dont generate enough heat to notice the improvement from the slotted/drilled rotors.
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Familiar with the possibilities of rotor failure/ warping. This car sees some spirited driving but not at a consistent track level. Same with my other car which already has similar brakes. Very happy with the performance of them and have noticed an improvement. They work just as good as the day I first installed them. No fade in the mountains either.
 
Brakes done, hub was fine. Got whacked with the flu or it would have been done already. The pads on there previously, had plenty of material left but were disintegrating, scoring itself and mimicking a bad bearing. Pretty sure one or both of the old rotors on there were out of balance. Vibration that was there is gone. I had the wheels balanced a couple months ago suspecting them but it wasn’t. Now I have some bike wheels to build.
 
Guess who has a car that locks you out of the battery compartment when the battery is dead?

Guess it could have been charged through the lighter - but i found a vid with the cable routing for the bonnet.
Think i'll add a battery conditioner/trickle charger. Nice day for a drive too.
 
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Remembered I was still OEM the other day, so coolant drain and refill with new hot pink on the Sienna. 70k mi in 12 yrs, never once thought about it, still looked hot AF. Prolly go another 12.
Maybe do another one in a few years ‘cause only just under 1 gal came out. Great for running to the supply house, F the full flush. Easy/cheap, thanks Toyota.

Checked tire pressures, every one 32/33. Gonna go check my gage….

What’s that bright thing in the sky?
 
Patrick said:
Guess who has a car that locks you out of the battery compartment when the battery is dead?

Guess it could have been charged through the lighter - but i found a vid with the cable routing for the bonnet.
Think i'll add a battery conditioner/trickle charger. Nice day for a drive too.
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911s have this little pull out post on the bottom of the fuse panel in the driver kick panel that you put 12 volt to that will allow you to pop the frunk. I've heard that if the battery is dead enough it won't work though, so it's always nice to know where that hidden frunk release cable is before you need to use it
 
Not today but I put a 2 inch hitch on my GTi, then I swapped out the 1 1/4 for a 2 inch hitch on my 1up.

I think a 1up with a 1 1/4 inch hitch is fine for a single bike carrier. But as soon as I put 2 on, it was clear that smaller hitch was swaying a hair. It’s probably just the connection of hitch and rack that got loose. But this is sooooo much more secure.

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