What have you done to your bike today?

My bike is shifting like shit; riding in shit is not helping. I disassembled the bits, cleaned, adjusted, all seems to help for 0.247 rides then it's back to shift down 3 to get 1. Sucks. My right thumb is noticeably more ripped than my left just from manhandling the rapidfire.

Eff it all, I went as far as I could with the crap I got. Yay Amazon Prime 1 day; I will be down in the shop tonight after the kids are snoozin....

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Opinions on using one continuous piece of housing from shifter to derailleur? My DH bike is setup this way and I don't recall ever having shifting problems with it. The Enduro has 3 short pieces of housing, with sections of exposed cable between . It all seems like extra friction, no?
 
w_b said:
Opinions on using one continuous piece of housing from shifter to derailleur? My DH bike is setup this way and I don't recall ever having shifting problems with it. The Enduro has 3 short pieces of housing, with sections of exposed cable between . It all seems like extra friction, no?
Click to expand...

I prefer one piece if you've got the guides to handle. Not like a lot gets into the cuts but the exposed cable does have potential to get dirt/grime back into the housing and slow the responsiveness. One man's opinion, though.
 
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w_b said:
Opinions on using one continuous piece of housing from shifter to derailleur? My DH bike is setup this way and I don't recall ever having shifting problems with it. The Enduro has 3 short pieces of housing, with sections of exposed cable between . It all seems like extra friction, no?
Click to expand...

Full run housing protects the cable from contaminates and is preferred in either dry/sandy/dusty conditions or wet (mud/snow). A little lube on the cable when you install it and as long as you don’t have any extreme bends shifting will be solid. Now with that being said, bikes have had exposed cables for...well, for ever.
 
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w_b said:
My bike is shifting like shit; riding in shit is not helping. I disassembled the bits, cleaned, adjusted, all seems to help for 0.247 rides then it's back to shift down 3 to get 1. Sucks. My right thumb is noticeably more ripped than my left just from manhandling the rapidfire.

Eff it all, I went as far as I could with the crap I got. Yay Amazon Prime 1 day; I will be down in the shop tonight after the kids are snoozin....

View attachment 62120
Click to expand...

I'm curious what drive train you have? Eagle?
 
Dat bird flies WAY too high for me.

Kore 32 NW/PC951/SR11-36, actuated by Shimano XT9 thru Deore SGS

and I don't suspect any of it, surprisingly.
 
w_b said:
Dat bird flies WAY too high for me.

Kore 32 NW/PC951/SR11-36, actuated by Shimano XT9 thru Deore SGS

and I don't suspect any of it, surprisingly.
Click to expand...

Interesting. The reason I asked is that lately I've been reading about shifting issues with the bird. Basically, it seems that with Eagle everything needs to be adjust absolutely precisely or it shifts like garbage. I don't have eagle myself so I have no idea if the issues are real or if it's just poor setup/adjustment. Another interesting thing is there are a few bikes coming out with e*thirteen 9-46 cassettes and Shimano shifters/derailleurs. For example the entire 2018 YT line has moved to the Shimano/e*thirteen mixed drivetrain. Makes me wonder if Sram has some work to do to refine the eagle setup.
 
I think realistically a "standard" size/geometry RD can handle up to about 34T cog repeatably, and without too much continued fussin'. My 36T "just " clears the top jockey wheel, but runs well (usually. )

I picked up another 11-36 9sp cassette for the shelf ($19) and it came with a free generic "goatlink" mounting extension link, which are becoming so popular these days (and I would assume, are absolutely necessary for anything larger than 36T, just to move the RD away from the axle.) I may try it to see if it makes any difference. At least I should be able to back off the B-Screw somewhat when using it.

I'd like to consider a larger cog in back, but keep telling myself to HTFU.
 
w_b said:
I think realistically a "standard" size/geometry RD can handle up to about 34T cog repeatably, and without too much continued fussin'. My 36T "just " clears the top jockey wheel, but runs well (usually. )

I picked up another 11-36 9sp cassette for the shelf ($19) and it came with a free generic "goatlink" mounting extension link, which are becoming so popular these days (and I would assume, are absolutely necessary for anything larger than 36T, just to move the RD away from the axle.) I may try it to see if it makes any difference. At least I should be able to back off the B-Screw somewhat when using it.

I'd like to consider a larger cog in back, but keep telling myself to HTFU.
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how are you determining chain length? I usually use the add two links method, but found some combo to work better with an extra. Also much B screw is showing?
I believe the 9 speed shimano were designed around 34T max, but should have no trouble with 36
btw: where did you get the cassette with generic goat tooth combo?
 
qclabrat said:
how are you determining chain length? I usually use the add two links method, but found some combo to work better with an extra. Also much B screw is showing?
I believe the 9 speed shimano were designed around 34T max, but should have no trouble with 36
btw: where did you get the cassette with generic goat tooth combo?
Click to expand...

I also do the add 2 but if it’s a FS I let the air out of the shock to account for the swing arm movement first.
 
qclabrat said:
how are you determining chain length? I usually use the add two links method, but found some combo to work better with an extra. Also much B screw is showing?
I believe the 9 speed shimano were designed around 34T max, but should have no trouble with 36
btw: where did you get the cassette with generic goat tooth combo?
Click to expand...

I usually add 1 full link (1". ) Two full links is too much slack IMO. My B Screw is almost all the way in.

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I found the SR cassette on line:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KD8ZG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
built myself a new rack setup for the bed of my truck, now i can carry multiple bikes without them banging together or laying on top of each other.
 

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