The DIY thread - DIYourself

Yes- I hope you have proper construction under yours (ours are nailed to the studs- no plywood, no vapor barrier- lol).
Haven’t had difficulty finding them though. Northeast building supply in Andover I think?
I guess that’s how you did it back in the ‘30s...thanks, I’ll check that out.
 
Shitter update: this is no longer a DIY, insurance is replacing the floor upstairs and whatever is wet downstairs (exents still TBD, but looking like most of the shower and probably the floor too).

I'm on the hook for the plumbing repair, but I'm ok with that. I'm going to have someone pull the lead and replace it with PVC
 
Shitter update: this is no longer a DIY, insurance is replacing the floor upstairs and whatever is wet downstairs (exents still TBD, but looking like most of the shower and probably the floor too).

I'm on the hook for the plumbing repair, but I'm ok with that. I'm going to have someone pull the lead and replace it with PVC

the lead is a transition from cast iron to flange.
Should be easy enough to cut the cast iron and use an armored coupling for the transition.
Glad they are taking care of the $$$
 
the lead is a transition from cast iron to flange.
Should be easy enough to cut the cast iron and use an armored coupling for the transition.
Glad they are taking care of the $$$

The lead goes into a brass spool piece which is leaded into the CI hub. Apparently a major PITA to get them out. Definitely leaving this one to the pros, I don't want to lose any sleep over this one!

 
Need some advice on my deck plans. Looking to build a 12x16 grade level deck using 2x6s with 12" OC. Concrete pier blocks on every other 16' joist. Blocks will be 5" below grade with 2" of gravel underneath it. Bridging added at 2', 6', 10' and 14' along the 16' joist.

Should I be concerned about joists without blocks, especially the outer joist? Maybe I should do 2x8?

Anything else I should be concerned about?

8oxsSfc.jpg
 
Need some advice on my deck plans. Looking to build a 12x16 grade level deck using 2x6s with 12" OC. Concrete pier blocks on every other 16' joist. Blocks will be 5" below grade with 2" of gravel underneath it. Bridging added at 2', 6', 10' and 14' along the 16' joist.

Should I be concerned about joists without blocks, especially the outer joist? Maybe I should do 2x8?

Anything else I should be concerned about?

View attachment 130526

in that configuration you'd have to support every joist.
you'd be killing yourself putting in piers.

sets of double 2x8 cantilevered over piers every 6 feet (please check - might have to go tighter (4 piers per girder) - 2' cantilever is probably too much for 8" lumber)
separate by 6 feet
fill in using 2x8 and joist hangars.
no blocking ?
Didn't draw it correctly - double rim inside girders.

Rent a hanger nail gun.

@mattybfat

1591111114471.png
 
I want to lay the deck flooring parallel to the 12' side. Is there a frame configuration that makes that possible?
 
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I want lay the deck flooring parallel to the 12' side. Is that possible?

run the girders the other way 4 - 12' girders, with 3 piers each - then fill in
check the decking for spacing requirements - 12" or 16"
make sure when you double that the tops are absolutely flat - use clamps, and lots of ACQ 3.25" nails/screws

if you use regular deck screws - pre-drill with a recessing bit. something like this. you can find less expensive
non-adjustable ones. Blind attachments are nice - they are decking dependent.

PS - it will shift without more stout footings - but collapsing really isn't a problem at ground level.

wait on Matt to confirm. (i gave you how the architect drew mine.)
 
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Are there vertical limitations to the height of the deck? With @Patrick 's design you just went from 6" to 16". If vertical space is a challenge I guess you could sister 2x6 or reduce spacing between joists?

Interested in how this pans out.
 
Are there vertical limitations to the height of the deck? With @Patrick 's design you just went from 6" to 16". If vertical space is a challenge I guess you could sister 2x6 or reduce spacing between joists?

Interested in how this pans out.

6" to 8" - they aren't above the girders, they would use joist hangers between them.
too much bounce in a 6" board at 5'
 
6" to 8" - they aren't above the girders, they would use joist hangers between them.
too much bounce in a 6" board at 5'
Ah, I thought that joist hangar was a specific configuration...for some reason I never liked those hangers, they don't give me that feeling of overbuilding that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy...
 
My original plan uses these types of concrete blocks. I'm guessing that's a no-go with double 2x8s, right? What would be recommended?
block.png
 
My original plan uses these types of concrete blocks. I'm guessing that's a no-go with double 2x8s, right? What would be recommended?
View attachment 130544

I'd really recommend doing poured concrete piers - using tubes - depending where you live, rent a post hole digger,
buy tubes, and rent a mixer.

otherwise.

 
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What about single 2x8 spaced at 3' instead of 6' and those blocks each 3 feet under a girder/joist intersection?

too many cuts. I'd mix concrete first, with 1' tubes all set level and use one of the brackets to attach - if you are really good, the anchor
gets set in the concrete. I'm not that good - i just drill and epoxy them in.

problem is most brackets are made for 4x4 posts, which are a different width than double 2x pt - by about 1/4".
there is a bracket to run the double 2x over the top of the post. can use it and just add a shim.
 
Those form blocks alone would be a code violation, peers need to be below frost line to pass inspection.
2 x 6 joist would fail every town code in NJ
Oh you say I want to skip a permit, why? This always intrigues me. I guess you feel taxed enough but isn't it comforting to know that your work is/was done right? Well you will when you go to sell that said house and pay the fine. Then find the contractors who will write it off as their own, which you will have to do. Decks, pay me $350 to tell you it's wrong and I will not sign it off but I will fix it for a price. I love those illegal basements, $500 for me to walk in the door. Wait to see if you can get a electrician or plumber to show up. I try to get clients to permit up always otherwise they need to sign a disclosure that they refused a permit. I also will not do any structural work without a permit like a deck. Sorry for the long winded rant but maybe I informed one person.
 
Those form blocks alone would be a code violation, peers need to be below frost line to pass inspection.
2 x 6 joist would fail every town code in NJ
Oh you say I want to skip a permit, why? This always intrigues me. I guess you feel taxed enough but isn't it comforting to know that your work is/was done right? Well you will when you go to sell that said house and pay the fine. Then find the contractors who will write it off as their own, which you will have to do. Decks, pay me $350 to tell you it's wrong and I will not sign it off but I will fix it for a price. I love those illegal basements, $500 for me to walk in the door. Wait to see if you can get a electrician or plumber to show up. I try to get clients to permit up always otherwise they need to sign a disclosure that they refused a permit. I also will not do any structural work without a permit like a deck. Sorry for the long winded rant but maybe I informed one person.

so will the drawing i submitted work with a permit and poured, correctly inspected, footings?
8" lumber, double girders, hangars, 1' cantilever, 5' spacing for footings, 5.5' spacing for joists?

PS - my building department has a homeowners guide to decks to follow - it is a popular project.

PPS - homeowners can get their own permits, request inspections, do the work.
on a second failure, the inspector will probably insist on a pro to come in and do the work.
 
Blocks will be 5" below grade with 2" of gravel underneath it.

Anything else I should be concerned about?

this should be your first concern. It sounds like you’re trying to build a patio, but 1. Do it on the cheap and 2. Save yourself some labor.

I’d give it a year and it will be 6 inches below grade. Especially if we get a lot of rain.

Spend the time and money to do it right and you will only have to do it once
 
Those form blocks alone would be a code violation, peers need to be below frost line to pass inspection.
2 x 6 joist would fail every town code in NJ
Oh you say I want to skip a permit, why? This always intrigues me. I guess you feel taxed enough but isn't it comforting to know that your work is/was done right? Well you will when you go to sell that said house and pay the fine. Then find the contractors who will write it off as their own, which you will have to do. Decks, pay me $350 to tell you it's wrong and I will not sign it off but I will fix it for a price. I love those illegal basements, $500 for me to walk in the door. Wait to see if you can get a electrician or plumber to show up. I try to get clients to permit up always otherwise they need to sign a disclosure that they refused a permit. I also will not do any structural work without a permit like a deck. Sorry for the long winded rant but maybe I informed one person.
More than a rant it sounds like good information that will help the OP to avoid making a big mistake with delayed effects.
 
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