jklett
Well-Known Member
It was gifted, I guess it's considered part of my severance.
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter Red Mosquito
- Start date
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
Odd question, but where can I buy a toilet someplace other than depot or Lowe's? They only stock "comfort height" but I want a standard one. Would prefer to see it before ordering
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
That's a small part of it, I actually prefer the lower seat myself. I have it in one bathroom, would like to keep the other the same. Unfortunately Kohler no longer makes the one I already have
one piece crank
1pc Cranky
Yes, try plumbing supply. When I struck out at Lowe’s, I had good luck and service with Aaron’s in Flemington. We did t see what we wanted on the floor, but they could order it and in the color we wanted (that big box doesn’t even carry).
thats a nice tool to have, and here i was thinking a small benchtop model would have gotten me what i needed, now i want the real deal!
serviceguy
Well-Known Member
A lathe is nice, but a milling machine would be really sweet!
jklett
Well-Known Member
With those two tools there's not too much that can't be made(or at least mostly shaped). I just missed out on the mill(could've gotten it for real cheap but I found out a day late), that's way up there on my list of needed things.
Technically a mill is more versatile than a Lathe since you can get a rotary table for it and have a 4axis that still does nice concentric rounds. Not for production but for a hobbyist.....
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
Checking their site now. They have a bunch of stuff that will work, though probably not in stock. May order from them instead, thanks for the recommendation.
I've always heard that too, though I can't decide if that's an old wives tale or not. Then again, all of my valves in my "newer" bathroom (everything less than 6 years old) are leaking, including kohler toilet shutoff and moen shower valve (from depot and amazon respectively) . So maybe it's true?
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
So I've always wondered why the shower valve was off center, now I know why. It needs to move 2 1/2" to the right, which puts the orifice for the cold line in the stud. This has annoyed me for 6 years, so there's no way it's not getting fixed now.
Would it be a bad idea to bore out the stud, sweat in a new nipple, and slide it all over? That would put the joint into the valve inside the stud. I would pex it back to the supply lines. I just don't like the idea of the joint being inside the stud, that would require way too much work if I ever needed to get to it in the future.
Option 2 is to box it out with a header and remove the studs that are in the way. But that's way more work, and I would need to bore through the header to get the supplies through (not sure if that's structurally sound?). This technically isn't a bearing wall, but there is a cut joist that sits right above the stud that's in the way, and the toilet is right there, so I don't just want to cut it and forget it.
Anything else I'm not thinking of?
Would it be a bad idea to bore out the stud, sweat in a new nipple, and slide it all over? That would put the joint into the valve inside the stud. I would pex it back to the supply lines. I just don't like the idea of the joint being inside the stud, that would require way too much work if I ever needed to get to it in the future.
Option 2 is to box it out with a header and remove the studs that are in the way. But that's way more work, and I would need to bore through the header to get the supplies through (not sure if that's structurally sound?). This technically isn't a bearing wall, but there is a cut joist that sits right above the stud that's in the way, and the toilet is right there, so I don't just want to cut it and forget it.
Anything else I'm not thinking of?
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
Thinking this might be the way to go. I don't care about the built-in shut offs, so it should give me a little more room for option 1
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serviceguy
Well-Known Member
I would go this route 100%Thinking this might be the way to go. I don't care about the built-in shut offs, so it should give me a little more room for option 1
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A Potted Plant
Honorary Sod
I had this stupid humidifier thing on the wall that wasn't active pulled the wire from through the basement pulled the box and patched it.
I was going to screw a strip in the back but I dropped it so fuck it. Pealed a few layers of paint so the patch would transition easier.
The patch is a piece of dry wall I cut from the inside of the closet, jk. Its self explanatory, felt like shit today and I wanted to get one thing done so that's it.
I was going to screw a strip in the back but I dropped it so fuck it. Pealed a few layers of paint so the patch would transition easier.
The patch is a piece of dry wall I cut from the inside of the closet, jk. Its self explanatory, felt like shit today and I wanted to get one thing done so that's it.
Thinking this might be the way to go. I don't care about the built-in shut offs, so it should give me a little more room for option 1
Moen FP62325PF M-Pact 3 Port Posi PEX | Build.com
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the shut-offs are required - although the inspector usually lets it go.
you can't move the stud - it is supporting the joist above it. heading it off creates the same problem with
a header in the way!
bore the 3/4" hole in the stud and move the whole thing over to where it needs to be to center.
then just come back through above the showerhead. copper, pex, whatevs.
don't overthink it.
I have my shower valve on the back wall across from the door, and the showerhead in the end wall.
be creative! it is only copper (or pex) - just pressure test before buttoning it up.
Red Mosquito
Formerly RLB the Scrapple Boy
With a gauge? Is there a specific way to do this for the newly installed parts? Or is bleeding the air out, then capping the shower arm and letting it all sit at pressure for a while good enough?
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