The DIY thread - DIYourself

jmanic said:
@MaxiBSplat
Hope things are squared away and the house is warm soon.
A couple things to consider going forward:
Get a service contract with your oil provider. I think we pay about 1/3 fork per year. Usually includes annual cleaning, and can also expedite/take some of the sting out of emergency service calls.
And schedule the cleaning early.
I usually schedule for August and missed that- I’m now waiting until Feb for this.

NJ Citizen Action Oil Group
https://www.njcaoilgroup.com
Annual membership runs about 1 quart of Stans/year. They work out price caps with oil providers, so you get reduced prices on deliveries throughout the year.
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I signed up for a service contract yesterday to bring down the price paid more than what the contract was worth. He did a shit ton of stuff today I'm very happy and don't mind paying for things I can't do.

It runs and he evaluated my whole system for unrelated issues which I appreciated
 
Mr.Moto said:
Interesting. I think I remember no plug on my dw when I replaced it many years ago. Wire nutted in a box in the floor.
So are the manufacturers on board and putting plugs on the end of the cord? Would I need to rewire and put an outlet in if I replace my dw now?
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Hardwire is fine.. they sell cord kits at HD

The idea is the outlet is accessible, so not behind or below the dw.

No requirement on replacement, if you do a major remodel, yes.
 
Patrick said:
Either, not both. Cheaper to use receptacle but might be harder to reset
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When they wired my kitchen, they wired the over the range microwave splitting a double regular, non GFCI receptacle, and sharpied in black the one that wasn't live. When I asked the GC why the blackened outlet, I was told that because the receptacle was closer than 6' to the sink, a single receptacle should either be dedicated to the microwave or a GFCI should be used if I wanted to have the spare live. He hadn't finished the sentence and I had already replaced the wonky receptacle with a GFCI (who doesn't have 1 or 5 laying around the house anyway), just never verified if I was being made a fool of myself.
 
serviceguy said:
When they wired my kitchen, they wired the over the range microwave splitting a double regular, non GFCI receptacle, and sharpied in black the one that wasn't live. When I asked the GC why the blackened outlet, I was told that because the receptacle was closer than 6' to the sink, a single receptacle should either be dedicated to the microwave or a GFCI should be used if I wanted to have the spare live. He hadn't finished the sentence and I had already replaced the wonky receptacle with a GFCI (who doesn't have 1 or 5 laying around the house anyway), just never verified if I was being made a fool of myself.
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That works. It supposed to be a dedicated Branch to the mw and the disabled receptacle was a good idea but you're solution works.

Either - you can use a GFI breaker or receptacle. Both not needed.
 
Patrick said:
That works. It supposed to be a dedicated Branch to the mw and the disabled receptacle was a good idea but you're solution works.

Either - you can use a GFI breaker or receptacle. Both not needed.
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It did pass inspection, I couldn’t bear the thought of having that disabled receptacle sharpies in black, even though it’s hidden in the cabinet on top of the mw...
 
New DW. Older DW didnt even have upper rack lower jets! I had to do some minor plumbing work. Copper supply line that needed union reduction and add flex supply. Between pickup and understadning what i need, couple lowes trips, and completion... 1/2 day
DAFA01BC-D858-4E6E-966B-8FF2A0BB0245.jpeg
 
Start out with this.

1574355205123.png

and get it way over there

1574355235435.png

Then wire it up for inspection

1574355276200.png

Somewhere in the middle doing this, i realized the conduit was installed in the other direction when it got hung-up on the joints twice.
Ran the wire the other way, no issues. Receptacles, switches, and ceiling boxes all roughed in.

Still need to run the wire from the panel to the pull box. Maybe later. Time to ride.
 
Patrick said:
Start out with this.

View attachment 111355

and get it way over there

View attachment 111356

Then wire it up for inspection

View attachment 111357

Somewhere in the middle doing this, i realized the conduit was installed in the other direction when it got hung-up on the joints twice.
Ran the wire the other way, no issues. Receptacles, switches, and ceiling boxes all roughed in.

Still need to run the wire from the panel to the pull box. Maybe later. Time to ride.
Click to expand...

How deep did you have to dig and how much did it cost you for each feet ? I believe nonmetallic is 18". What if you want to also carry a cat 6 cable, does it need a separate conduit? So many questions!
 
serviceguy said:
How deep did you have to dig and how much did it cost you for each feet ? I believe nonmetallic is 18". What if you want to also carry a cat 6 cable, does it need a separate conduit? So many questions!
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24" to the top of the conduit here (ymmv - call inspector). The guy that dug the foundation did it with a 12" shovel on his excavator, otherwise, rent a ditcher from the local shop for $150 and have at it.
I'm not sure they allow UF here, because it doesn't have a shielded ground.

conduit is cheap - wire is expensive - $2.50/ft for the 4 wire set (8AWG)
can not run low voltage and high voltage in the same conduit, so yes, i put a second conduit in.
 
Patrick said:
24" to the top of the conduit here (ymmv - call inspector). The guy that dug the foundation did it with a 12" shovel on his excavator, otherwise, rent a ditcher from the local shop for $150 and have at it.
I'm not sure they allow UF here, because it doesn't have a shielded ground.

conduit is cheap - wire is expensive - $2.50/ft for the 4 wire set (8AWG)
can not run low voltage and high voltage in the same conduit, so yes, i put a second conduit in.
Click to expand...

Sounds doable, I'm just concerned about rocks and tree roots. I may have to shovel.
 
one piece crank said:
I want a tire mounting machine and balancing machine. I hate taking my vehicles in for tires, when I do everything else.
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100% this.^ Tires are such a simple thing that I hate having someone else do on my car.

Speaking of which, anyone have a tire balancer I can use? I need to static balance my winter wheels or throw on some low profile weights. Front calipers are like 1/8th of an inch from my wheels weights, lol.
 
one piece crank said:
I want a tire mounting machine and balancing machine. I hate taking my vehicles in for tires, when I do everything else.
Click to expand...

they are a little expensive - make that alot expensive.
I always thought of fitting out a trailer and doing it mobile, but surprise, a balancing machine is sensitive to being out of balance.
I bet you'd get a premium for doing tires on-site.

i was planning a brake lathe too, but we've already covered that !
 
one piece crank said:
Expensive, yes. I really want to build a space for 4-6 vehicles, get a 4-post lift, and the above mentioned tire equipment. The closer my kids get to graduating college the closer I get to pulling the trigger.

Maybe start an MTBNJ tire co-op?
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pole barns are cheap -
add a radiant floor for winter

you want to have space to sub-out to a detailer. bonus if you upsell work to them
always thought a self service space might bring in $$ - pay for the block of time - 1 per night, fixed price.
tool rental
appointments with speed (hacker) specialists
probably lots more to leverage.
 
Patrick said:
Start out with this.

View attachment 111355

and get it way over there

View attachment 111356

Then wire it up for inspection

View attachment 111357

Somewhere in the middle doing this, i realized the conduit was installed in the other direction when it got hung-up on the joints twice.
Ran the wire the other way, no issues. Receptacles, switches, and ceiling boxes all roughed in.

Still need to run the wire from the panel to the pull box. Maybe later. Time to ride.
Click to expand...
Nice work
 
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