DIY wheel building
- Thread starter qclabrat
- Start date
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
I suppose not, but lasers cut short on the butt (which they will do) are pretty damn light.
Plus, 1.8mm elbows in 2.5/6 some holes pretty much necessitates spoke washers... Negating the already minimal weight savings. You pretty much need hubs drilled for 1.8mm spokes.
shit does this mean my wheel is gonna implode
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
Maybe?
Spokes that can move significantly in the spoke holes is not good, but with modern metallurgy being what it is, and spokes being consistently good within a batch, you may never have a problem. The issue that may arise is the bend in the spoke–which is already a weak point–can now move quite a bit more, leading to earlier failure.
That's one of the reasons that DT/SAPIM make triple/double butted spokes with a larger 2.3mm bend–it fills more of the spoke hole, creating a more stable interface. Spoke washers can help, but they are really meant for taking up space on thin (steel) hub flanges, to better support the bend in modern spokes.
Spokes that can move significantly in the spoke holes is not good, but with modern metallurgy being what it is, and spokes being consistently good within a batch, you may never have a problem. The issue that may arise is the bend in the spoke–which is already a weak point–can now move quite a bit more, leading to earlier failure.
That's one of the reasons that DT/SAPIM make triple/double butted spokes with a larger 2.3mm bend–it fills more of the spoke hole, creating a more stable interface. Spoke washers can help, but they are really meant for taking up space on thin (steel) hub flanges, to better support the bend in modern spokes.
bumblebeetuna
Member
not to hijack the thread. I'm using online calculators to order spokes for my first homebuilt wheelset. What do you do as far as rounding the lengths... up or down and by how much?
depends what brand spokes your are using. Wheelsmith tends to be the truest to size. Dt Swiss notoriously measures up a half millimeter short. The real test is in the final tensioning. I can tend to have ocd when building wheels and have torn a whole wheel apart over a millimeter. To avoid this, get good measurements and run it on another calculator as well. Most discrepencies come from what manufacturer publishes as erd(effective rim diameter) and what the actual erd is. Ultimately, you want the spoke threaded all the way into the nipple and protruding no more than flush with the top of the nipple. Typically, there is a mil or two fudge factor on most wheels. Like I said, my ocd kicks in. However, the closer you are to the proper length, the easier the wheel is going to build up. Too short, and the original lacing up is tougher. Proper length also requires minimal dishing during the build process(you still want to check it every time you start increasing tension). Hope that helps
bumblebeetuna
Member
Not sure if it matters but Sheldon and the guy in the video start on opposite sides of the valve hole. Does it make a difference in your opinion ?
Xler8
Well-Known Member
Where do I sign up?
didn't watch the video, but assuming the guy in the video is using a rim that is drilled differently. Hold a rim on it side and find the valve hole, then find the closest hole facing up(holes are drilled specific for left and right). Nine times out of ten, that spoke hole is to the left of valve hole. A couple manufacturers do it the other way, and is very important information if relacing an old hub because you will overstress the flanges as the lacing pattern won't line up.
bumblebeetuna
Member
Gotcha. That's how the video showed it. Just to be sure. Hole closest to the valve is typically at the 11 o clock position when viewing it from the decal or drive side?
Karate Monkey
Well-Known Member
It is subtle as hell with some rims (and some are drilled along the centerline, though rare)... Measure from a flat surface with a ruler/vernier.
Mr.Moto
Well-Known Member
Yes, so typically when you have the valve hole at 12:00, the spoke hole to the left of the valve hole will be offset closer to you and the spoke hole to the right of the valve will be offset away from you. No matter which side you turn the rim, this will always be the case. When you follow the video the drive side is laced first with hole to the left being the key spoke hole.
The Sheldon Brown instructions are somewhat backwards to this and a bit confusing to follow which is why I find the video much easier to follow.
one piece crank
Well-Known Member
The Jobst Brandt book is Bible - great theory and technique. I've built every wheel I've ridden, since my 1985 Redline RL-20II...
I think I will take my chances with implosion.
Paul H
Fearless OOS Poser
Other than Stans, I cant seem to find the max or recommended tension
How much tension do you use?
Done about to 2 sets and went with feel and they all held up fine but after seeing others popping spokes here and there, I am a bit concerned about getting the correct tension.
Mr.Moto
Well-Known Member
What rim are you working with? I've found recommended tension for most of the rims I've used. Most have been between 100 and 125 kgf.