Ask an automobile mechanic.

[Danimal]

lol

which vac do you have? the whole no or minimal burping required is enticing to me. but $100 for a tool i use once every 5-10 years is . . .. yea

I dont recall which brand I have, will have to check when I get home. Mine is just the basic one with none of those extra adaptors and just the rubber cone style. The only issue I can see with that is that if you use it on a regular radiator the cone could be too long and not sit down enough to seal, not an issue typically on a expansion tank

 

[Santapez]

anyone have one of the guys? the time to do a coolant change on the truck is coming up and wondering if this would be money well spent or if i should just use a funnel.

Amazon.com

You have a Dodge truck right? I'm making the assumption it's a really easy drain & fill. I'm sure there's forums where you'd see people bitching they needed a vacuum kit, but in reality you likely have one of the most simple setups. Heck even your petcock is probably easy to get to.

Buy the coolant at the dealership if you haven't already. I'm willing to bet it's not that expensive and you'll not have to worry about mixing incompatible fluids.

 

[shrpshtr325]

You have a Dodge truck right? I'm making the assumption it's a really easy drain & fill. I'm sure there's forums where you'd see people bitching they needed a vacuum kit, but in reality you likely have one of the most simple setups. Heck even your petcock is probably easy to get to.

Buy the coolant at the dealership if you haven't already. I'm willing to bet it's not that expensive and you'll not have to worry about mixing incompatible fluids.

im sure it is simple, but im always looking for something better/easier so thought id ask if anyone has used one of these guys when i found it (i was actually just shopping for the funnel that fits on the radiator cap when i stumbled across this), the dealer wants $20/gallon (system holds 4.5 gallons iirc) for the premix last time i checked, but again its a 10yr/150k fluid so

 

[skully]

Depending on. The engine , 3.6 or a hemi .....either motor can get "air bound" easily....the "air lift " tools are good ...but I always just use a good "spill free" funnel that clips onto the radiator opening . .....the main thing is to run the engine and watch the temp gauge. Make sure that the upper hose is in" agreement " with it ..( warn engine =warm hose ) .....if not ....then u have an air pocket..........and ALWAYS use dealer coolant ......I don't care if the jug says "universal " at the parts store ....its not ...I have seen way to many problems/ blown motors due to this ...sorry ...but that's what I have seen over the last 28 years at a jeep / chry / dodge dealer

 

[shrpshtr325]

Depending on. The engine , 3.6 or a hemi .....either motor can get "air bound" easily....the "air lift " tools are good ...but I always just use a good "spill free" funnel that clips onto the radiator opening . .....the main thing is to run the engine and watch the temp gauge. Make sure that the upper hose is in" agreement " with it ..( warn engine =warm hose ) .....if not ....then u have an air pocket..........and ALWAYS use dealer coolant ......I don't care if the jug says "universal " at the parts store ....its not ...I have seen way to many problems/ blown motors due to this ...sorry ...but that's what I have seen over the last 28 years at a jeep / chry / dodge dealer

its a hemi (not sure why they sell these trucks with the pentastar, thing is a safety hazard to itself and others with that thing under the hood).

I was actually planning to use the prestone mopar specific coolant (af6900) since its half the cost of the mopar branded coolant.

 

[skully]

its a hemi (not sure why they sell these trucks with the pentastar, thing is a safety hazard to itself and others with that thing under the hood).

I was actually planning to use the prestone mopar specific coolant (af6900) since its half the cost of the mopar branded coolant.

Ok ......so the hemi had a bleed plug ( looks like I pipe plug ) on the top of the water pump .remove the plug when you refill the system. When coolant starts to flow out , put the plug back in .....dont know anything good or bad about that coolant ....u should probably be fine with it

 

[shrpshtr325]

Ok ......so the hemi had a bleed plug ( looks like I pipe plug ) on the top of the water pump .remove the plug when you refill the system. When coolant starts to flow out , put the plug back in .....dont know anything good or bad about that coolant ....u should probably be fine with it

i knew about the drain plugs on the left and right sides, havent heard of the bleed plug above the water pump, will take a look for it when i get around to this job.

since you seem to have experience with Chrysler motors how long did the plastic end caps on the their radiators last? worth replacing the radiator while the system is empty?
(this is far from my first rodeo, just the first time iv had to open the system on this vehicle)

 

[skully]

i knew about the drain plugs on the left and right sides, havent heard of the bleed plug above the water pump, will take a look for it when i get around to this job.

since you seem to have experience with Chrysler motors how long did the plastic end caps on the their radiators last? worth replacing the radiator while the system is empty?
(this is far from my first rodeo, just the first time iv had to open the system on this vehicle)

So , it's hard to say how long the rad will go , I will say that the o.e. rad will generally out last an aftermarket replacement. So with that said, I would say , insp the end seams..if you don't see and signs of leaking or pink "crusting" . I would leave it . But don't drain the system from the drain cock as it will probably leak ,due to the o rings not resealing once you put it back in. Just drop the lower hose off instead . I will also say that I have seen aftermarket coolant do noticeable damage to the plastic components of the cooling system. . Best practice would be to use Mopar coolant that's already cut 50/50 ...if you do use the concentrated then cut it with only distilled water ..tap water will introduce minerals that will cause damage as well

 

[shrpshtr325]

Thanks. That's the fence I've been sitting on with this since I don't have any signs of leaks anywhere. I've never had any luck with the drains built into radiators iv always ended up taking the hoses off.

 

[don]

Decided to redo the engine mounts for my Cummins R2.8 install. I bought these (https://www.farmstronginc.com/product-page/cummins-r2-8-repower-complete-universal-conversion-mounts) for the first install and first they were a pain to line up and secondly I felt they transmitted a little harshness (I know it's still a 4 cyl turbo diesel but want to smooth out any chance I can).

A member on the NAS-ROW board did the same thing. Had the Farmstrong mounts and after reading on the 4BTSwaps that the Anchor 2698 mounts worked well in that application. He made the change and reported very good results. I used hit engine side mount but made my own frame side mounts.



Welds were getting a little sloppy. Ran out of argon and was running my small torch.


Clamped into the RH side.



Looks cool but burned thru a section of the frame and had a big pop. Hard to TIG in a weird and tight spot and running the bead vertically. Cleaned up the pop and made a couple more passed to fill in.



LH side mount getting welded yesterday. Happier with the pass - bigger torch and argon.


Going in between the frame mount and a Jack Kit I got from Brennan's Off Road that will replace my Hi-Lift. (https://brennans-garage.com/products/tauler-jack-kit)

 

[don]

I don't know if I posted up the frame side mount work but I had 1/4" plate that I used my press to bend into a 90 degree. In the first picture in the previous post I added side gussets and cut to fit for the frame. The R2.8 is about 500 lbs so it should hold very well considering it is 1 of 2 mounting locations for the engine and 1 of 4 for the whole drivetrain.

 

[JDurk]

I don't know if I posted up the frame side mount work but I had 1/4" plate that I used my press to bend into a 90 degree. In the first picture in the previous post I added side gussets and cut to fit for the frame. The R2.8 is about 500 lbs so it should hold very well considering it is 1 of 2 mounting locations for the engine and 1 of 4 for the whole drivetrain.

View attachment 261638

View attachment 261639

View attachment 261640View attachment 261641

Excellent use of that press to do your bending.

 

[qclabrat]

Decided to redo the engine mounts for my Cummins R2.8 install. I bought these (https://www.farmstronginc.com/product-page/cummins-r2-8-repower-complete-universal-conversion-mounts) for the first install and first they were a pain to line up and secondly I felt they transmitted a little harshness (I know it's still a 4 cyl turbo diesel but want to smooth out any chance I can).

A member on the NAS-ROW board did the same thing. Had the Farmstrong mounts and after reading on the 4BTSwaps that the Anchor 2698 mounts worked well in that application. He made the change and reported very good results. I used hit engine side mount but made my own frame side mounts.

View attachment 261632

Welds were getting a little sloppy. Ran out of argon and was running my small torch.

View attachment 261633View attachment 261634
Clamped into the RH side.


View attachment 261635
Looks cool but burned thru a section of the frame and had a big pop. Hard to TIG in a weird and tight spot and running the bead vertically. Cleaned up the pop and made a couple more passed to fill in.


View attachment 261636
LH side mount getting welded yesterday. Happier with the pass - bigger torch and argon.

View attachment 261637
Going in between the frame mount and a Jack Kit I got from Brennan's Off Road that will replace my Hi-Lift. (https://brennans-garage.com/products/tauler-jack-kit)

Your torch work is looking pro

 

[shrpshtr325]

So , it's hard to say how long the rad will go , I will say that the o.e. rad will generally out last an aftermarket replacement. So with that said, I would say , insp the end seams..if you don't see and signs of leaking or pink "crusting" . I would leave it . But don't drain the system from the drain cock as it will probably leak ,due to the o rings not resealing once you put it back in. Just drop the lower hose off instead . I will also say that I have seen aftermarket coolant do noticeable damage to the plastic components of the cooling system. . Best practice would be to use Mopar coolant that's already cut 50/50 ...if you do use the concentrated then cut it with only distilled water ..tap water will introduce minerals that will cause damage as well

@skully any thoughts on replacing thermostat or radiator and heater hoses while the system is open? Only 8 years old

 

[Rusty]

are plugged tires safe for long distance highway driving?

 

[shrpshtr325]

are plugged tires safe for long distance highway driving?

yes, they wont cause a blowout or anything dangerous like that, but plugs (IME) have a habit of working loose and causing a slow leak so i would just take the tire in and have it properly patched instead of plugging. That said if you already plugged it your likely SOL as i haven't seen a tire shop redo someone elses repair.

 

[extremedave]

are plugged tires safe for long distance highway driving?

Can we have some context here? Like, did you just jam eight plugs in a quarter sized hole or was it repaired three years ago without further issue and you're just checking?

A plug is (by the rubber manufacturers guild or whatever...not those rubbers, you creeps) deemed a temporary repair. That said, people have been plugging tires forever. A patch is better as you can see and cover the damage vs poking and hoping with a plug.

Bill is sort of correct. A "blowout" can be caused either by a sudden large impact and loss of pressure, but more commonly is a gradual loss then the tire overheats and fails. So if your plug works loose you get the same end result as a puncture. Modern cars with tire pressure monitoring mitigate this by giving you some warning poop has hit the fan.

Short answer, a plug repair that has been fine for some time is probably still fine. If it was an emergency repair done to get you home or close to the sidewall, maybe have it looked at before going much further. We had no major issue patching over an existing plug (if feasible) as current repair standards recommend you fill the injury channel anyway.

 

[Patrick]

Can we have some context here? Like, did you just jam eight plugs in a quarter sized hole or was it repaired three years ago without further issue and you're just checking?

A plug is (by the rubber manufacturers guild or whatever...not those rubbers, you creeps) deemed a temporary repair. That said, people have been plugging tires forever. A patch is better as you can see and cover the damage vs poking and hoping with a plug.

Bill is sort of correct. A "blowout" can be caused either by a sudden large impact and loss of pressure, but more commonly is a gradual loss then the tire overheats and fails. So if your plug works loose you get the same end result as a puncture. Modern cars with tire pressure monitoring mitigate this by giving you some warning poop has hit the fan.

Short answer, a plug repair that has been fine for some time is probably still fine. If it was an emergency repair done to get you home or close to the sidewall, maybe have it looked at before going much further. We had no major issue patching over an existing plug (if feasible) as current repair standards recommend you fill the injury channel anyway.

do you use those combo plug/patch thingies (and not those thingies)

 

[skully]

@skully any thoughts on replacing thermostat or radiator and heater hoses while the system is open? Only 8 years old

Meh ......I would say it's a judgment call based on your budget and expectations for how long you plan on keeping it ..... our rubber hoses are significantly better then 25 -30 years ago , as long as your using o.e. coolant .I would not be to worried about then ....the thermostat is not a bad idea ....but again ...not necessary......the rad ...I would only do if I saw any leaks from it ...... so to recap ...hoses ...if you want to ,fine ...but not necessary.... thermostat...same ...if you want to fine ...but not necessary..... rad ...only if you see a problem....otherwise I wouldn't worry about it ..

 

[shrpshtr325]

Meh ......I would say it's a judgment call based on your budget and expectations for how long you plan on keeping it ..... our rubber hoses are significantly better then 25 -30 years ago , as long as your using o.e. coolant .I would not be to worried about then ....the thermostat is not a bad idea ....but again ...not necessary......the rad ...I would only do if I saw any leaks from it ...... so to recap ...hoses ...if you want to ,fine ...but not necessary.... thermostat...same ...if you want to fine ...but not necessary..... rad ...only if you see a problem....otherwise I wouldn't worry about it ..

thanks for sharing the insight, it sounds like my money is better spent at the dealer buying coolant instead of replacing parts as long as a visual inspection doesnt show any dry rot/damage/leaks. I can totally get on board with doing less physical work (specifically trying to dig heater core hoses out) on this job