TRP Sprye disc brakes can't stop me.

Pearl

Pearl

THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING
So the new rig has these TRP Sprye SLC brakes, the ones with the two pistons I can adjust. It seemed simple enough to dial in, but I can't get this thing to stop the way they should. It almost feels like the lever is not being pulled hard enough.

These are Sram levers. I've tried to pre-load the lever, double check how tight the cable is, sand the pads/rotors, center the brake/pistons closer... I can't even get these things to lock up on me.

I did notice it has CGX-SL Jagwire cable housing. A lot of research says that I should be using compressionless housing. This is "low compression". Is this my problem?

Am I expecting too much from that disc life, or am I missing something?

Everything I've read said that these are super powerful, blah blah blah. HALP
 
Compressionless housing helps a bit with cantis (both bikes are set up with them). I've heard those spyres are challenging to set up. Do you even youtube, bro?
 
i youtubed hard AF and have not gained any braking performance with my findings. the steps to set up are easy enough, but it feels like im at 65% power. like it needs to be bled...

all i want to do is be able to do an endo/skid around all the turns... is that too much to ask for!?
 
You know, I made a mistake. I thought the spyres were the cable-actuated hydraulic ones, but I see they're not.

I think 65% is probably all you get with cable actuated discs. Cantis ~ 33%, hydraulic discs ~ 90%? Can someone fact-check these alternative facts?
 
Remember that one Ottos CX practice where you tried to go fast without using the brakes? thats kind of how this feels

I also keep seeing that these brakes are designed to only work with shimano levers, but that doesn't make sense.. i've seen good reviews from people that claim to use Sram levers... WTF
 
Exactly what levers are you using? Guessing, of course, but I'm wondering if those brakes require long pull levers.
 
I do remember that, fun tymes (see what I did there). Hm... I dunno man, something doesn't sound right. Might want to seek professional help on this one.
 
My cross bike came with horrible Promax mechanical discs. I swapped those for Shimano calipers and put on Jagwire KEB-SL compressionless housing. Made a huge difference, but I did the changes at the same time so I don't know how much was from compressionless housing and how much from better calipers.
 
BTW do you brake with hands on the hoods? I think my TRP Hyrd powerful from any position but with hands on the drops they are too much
 
@alex_k its easy to squeeze but i can squeeze them to the bar tape. its not so much i cant squeeze, just nothing at all.

@Delish 160f/140r.
they both feel equally shitty
 
I did some bedding in on the hill in front of our driveway and it helped, I can almost lock up the rear wheel and I think for CX racing it should be good enough. Hopefully over time it gets better too!

But what about another wheelset with another set of discs?!

Ill probably grab the housings in a couple of months, thankfully I have 4 months to figure this out lol
 
I heard different cables can make those brakes feel very good or very bad, nokons or yokozuna would probably be best but I think jagwire make something similar. How about different pads like ebc or swissstop.
 
Sram and shimano have different pull Distances or leverage ratios or something smart people know about (or what ever the real term is). The answer is full hydros, right @mattybfat?
 
I just built a Roubaix with TRPs and eTap and the brakes are more powerful than anything else I've ridden.
 
jimvreeland said:
I just built a Roubaix with TRPs and eTap and the brakes are more powerful than anything else I've ridden.
Click to expand...
Interesting, so at least I know it's not crappy equipment. The pads that are currently in them are green, are they the crappy stock pads?
 
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