Sprinkler shut off valve

Bike N Gear said:
Not following. Where do yo suggest inserting a new valve that wouldn’t require shutting the water outside? No idea where the outside valve is.

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beween the main ant the meter - or after the meter if you need to.

if the water co needs to replace the meter, they'll take care of the leaky main issue.
(or just let it leak while they do it)

in the mean time, you are just looking to isolate the house.
is it iron pipe or copper? If it is copper after the meter, you can slide a
sharkbite valve in there. Or a compression fitted valve ($15 at HD.)
(there is a kit for doing a sweat valve on a leaky pipe - it is a plug that slides through the valve, but $$$)

If it is iron, that is a bit tougher, cause you'd need to fit pipe to the next joint (i have an iron pipe threading kit, but it is probably near an elbow so pieces are available.)
Would also require a pipe union, cause nobody got time for a reverse thread nipple.
 
Patrick said:
beween the main ant the meter - or after the meter if you need to.

if the water co needs to replace the meter, they'll take care of the leaky main issue.
(or just let it leak while they do it)

in the mean time, you are just looking to isolate the house.
is it iron pipe or copper? If it is copper after the meter, you can slide a
sharkbite valve in there. Or a compression fitted valve ($15 at HD.)
(there is a kit for doing a sweat valve on a leaky pipe - it is a plug that slides through the valve, but $$$)

If it is iron, that is a bit tougher, cause you'd need to fit pipe to the next joint (i have an iron pipe threading kit, but it is probably near an elbow so pieces are available.)
Would also require a pipe union, cause nobody got time for a reverse thread nipple.
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Maybe I'm dense. But if I put a new valve before or after, yes I can now isolate the house, but I still have an existing valve that's sitting and leaking away into the basement. To make things even more complicated, my wife just mentioned that the water co was supposed to install a shut off box out by the curb pre-covid , but still hasn't got to our street. Meter has been replaced already.

I did just hear that the Fridge is in, so I can go on to the next fiasco.
 
Bike N Gear said:
Maybe I'm dense. But if I put a new valve before or after, yes I can now isolate the house, but I still have an existing valve that's sitting and leaking away into the basement. To make things even more complicated, my wife just mentioned that the water co was supposed to install a shut off box out by the curb pre-covid , but still hasn't got to our street. Meter has been replaced already.

I did just hear that the Fridge is in, so I can go on to the next fiasco.
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wait - what is leaking? the stem of the valve from trying to shut it off?
I thought you meant it wasn't closing all the way and wouldn't isolate the house to work downstream (which it probably doesn't)

Assuming this is a gate valve,
put a crescent wrench on the stem nut and tighten it down snug - should stop.
there is some packing (made of whatever) that needs to be compressed.
 
Patrick said:
wait - what is leaking? the stem of the valve from trying to shut it off?
I thought you meant it wasn't closing all the way and wouldn't isolate the house to work downstream (which it probably doesn't)

Assuming this is a gate valve,
put a crescent wrench on the stem nut and tighten it down snug - should stop.
there is some packing (made of whatever) that needs to be compressed.
Click to expand...
Si. Leaking from stem. This thing is old and corroded. I put a wrench on it and it wouldn't budge. I was fearful to try too hard on a Sunday afternoon. Figured that could be a quick way to ruin my afternoon (and basement.)
 
Bike N Gear said:
Si. Leaking from stem. This thing is old and corroded. I put a wrench on it and it wouldn't budge. I was fearful to try too hard on a Sunday afternoon. Figured that could be a quick way to ruin my afternoon (and basement.)
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Good call indeed.

This whole thing made me think about the dishwasher replacement we had to do and in the process the under sink valves were stuck. Went to the basement to shut off the main valve between the street supply and meter and the handle broke off with the water halfway off.

I only got lucky because it was mid week and somehow the town DPW was around the block working on a water main break.
 
Beurocracy at it's finest.

Middlesex Water send out a guy to find the valve out by the curb yesterday. We already had a painted blue line from a previous project. Took him a while but he finds it. Partially under the sidewalk. Flags it and paints big blue X. But this is not the official X.

We need to schedule another team that will come and "officially mark the location." This Official mark is only valid for 3 days. Within that 3 day period another team will come out to actually access the valve. Possibly install a box. If they don't make it within 3 days due to staffing, we need team number 2 to come back and officially mark it again. 3 day timer starts again. Rinse, repeat.

Plumber says "basically you're F'd." We won't schedule an appointment to do your repair until water co. is finished screwing around.

Glad this is only a drip at the moment.
 
Bike N Gear said:
Beurocracy at it's finest.

Middlesex Water send out a guy to find the valve out by the curb yesterday. We already had a painted blue line from a previous project. Took him a while but he finds it. Partially under the sidewalk. Flags it and paints big blue X. But this is not the official X.

We need to schedule another team that will come and "officially mark the location." This Official mark is only valid for 3 days. Within that 3 day period another team will come out to actually access the valve. Possibly install a box. If they don't make it within 3 days due to staffing, we need team number 2 to come back and officially mark it again. 3 day timer starts again. Rinse, repeat.

Plumber says "basically you're F'd." We won't schedule an appointment to do your repair until water co. is finished screwing around.

Glad this is only a drip at the moment.
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Jeez. I hope they don’t have to break out team 4 with the jackhammer to access it !
 
I have a corroded union that's dripping and knew it would probably be the same gong show from the start so i just put a bucket down. I have been dripping silicone oil on the stem and twisting it so maybe it'll lubricate and revitalize the rubber. I use silicone grease or oil on every o ring or rubber seal, shark bites and all. All this stuff dries out so i think it's good practice.
 
jmanic said:
That’s awesome, I get it was hard to do as a kid, but great experience to have.
Guessing a lot of your old pieces will respond well to De-Oxit and lube.

The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)

I received a message recently from a fellow AKer, asking me to re-post this semi-ancient post that has been long buried in the archives. While reluctant to re-post anything already in the archives (and thus risk wasting AK's precious memory space), I decided that with just a bit of...
audiokarma.org

So I’m just getting my feet wet here.
Playing with some BIC 980 turntables that I thought were daunting until I opened up a receiver chassis. TTs are just mechanical (mostly), receivers have all that electronic voodoo going on.

Main project right now is finding a gremlin in a Sansui 4000 receiver- crazy pulsing in the woofer in the left speaker channel-
I suspect some bad components are sending DC to the speaker.
I’ve done some basic stuff so far, but likely next steps will be tracing and testing caps/resistors in the power supply.
Or just go brute force and rebuild all the boards.
Also upgrading lights to leds, and building a replacement wooden cabinet with @SmooveP

And on deck are some cheap Advent speakers that I’m going to use to learn to refoam surrounds.

I need a bigger workbench.
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How are you are rewiring TT arms?
 
Ironjunk said:
I have a corroded union that's dripping and knew it would probably be the same gong show from the start so i just put a bucket down. I have been dripping silicone oil on the stem and twisting it so maybe it'll lubricate and revitalize the rubber. I use silicone grease or oil on every o ring or rubber seal, shark bites and all. All this stuff dries out so i think it's good practice.
Click to expand...
Your dripping silicone will probably work faster than my water company.
 
I had the same problem a few years back. The shutoff was really close to the wall. First plumber said it was a 3k job to dig out the front then extend the pipe for the new valve. Second one was $500 for the shark bite option but they had to call to have the water shutoff which was on the same day. I didn't even question the cost after the first quote. I've since done shark bites on my own and their actually quite easy. Though I'd still be reluctant on touching the main. I too have a PM who asks too many questions once I pickup a tool...
PXL_20231111_124242869.jpg
 
Sounds like you were going to have to deal with this eventually, especially if your main is a gate valve.

If I had this issue, once they got the water off, I’d rent a propress and go through and swap out every gate valve you have on your system, including heat and hot water system.

Or at least shark bite a ball valve on for the main, so they can turn the water back on.
 
Jmann said:
Sounds like you were going to have to deal with this eventually, especially if your main is a gate valve.

If I had this issue, once they got the water off, I’d rent a propress and go through and swap out every gate valve you have on your system, including heat and hot water system.

Or at least shark bite a ball valve on for the main, so they can turn the water back on.
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Thankfully for me, most of the plumbing is a lot newer than the main valve. House was essentially rebuilt, but that valve looks like it was from the original structure.
 
Jmann said:
Or at least shark bite a ball valve on for the main, so they can turn the water back on.
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Actually, after having my coffee this morning, I’d not recommend a shark bite for the main. They are great in emergencies, but that’s the one spot you really don’t want to fail again. Might as well get the added insurance of a sweated joint or at least propress.
 
Jmann said:
Actually, after having my coffee this morning, I’d not recommend a shark bite for the main. They are great in emergencies, but that’s the one spot you really don’t want to fail again. Might as well get the added insurance of a sweated joint or at least propress.
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Our plumber recommended us installing two interior main shutoff valves. One on either side of the meter, just in case.
 
qclabrat said:
How are you are rewiring TT arms?
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Haven’t gotten there yet.
I’m going all in on one model- BIC 980, so I occasionally pick up parts lots here and there, including harnesses and replacement tonearms.

Cool thing is I connected with a great source for NOS parts- one of the designers of the TT has a shop out in long island- he took all the inventory when BIC closed up shop. Pretty cool chatting with him and telling him I dig the TTs.
 
jmanic said:
Haven’t gotten there yet.
I’m going all in on one model- BIC 980, so I occasionally pick up parts lots here and there, including harnesses and replacement tonearms.

Cool thing is I connected with a great source for NOS parts- one of the designers of the TT has a shop out in long island- he took all the inventory when BIC closed up shop. Pretty cool chatting with him and telling him I dig the TTs.
Click to expand...
My first pair of speakers was almost a pair of BIC's. Ended up with some Dynaco A25xl's. These things survived 4 years of college blasting at 11 and numerous moves through the years. Sill have these too. Only ever had to replace one tweeter.
 
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