Sprinkler shut off valve

Not the way this was installed. When the sprinkler was added I believe the just went off the pipe that was originally just feeding that spigot.
Now we need more info

It get it when I fix the fridge box......
 
Close the valves on the backflow preventer, open the sillcock. Cycle the ball valve a few times. Maybe it will seal

If worried about water getting into the system, disconnect the backflow preventer.
 
So, 2 score and 7 years ago, I assembled my first Dyanaco amp, preamp and tuner. Required weeks of soldering to assemble the circuit boards and build these.

Just watched some "how to sweat a pipe" videos. I think I got this. Would just be a bit easier without the Type A, Senior Construction Project Manager standing behind me, looking over my shoulder. Might need to send her to go get her nails done.
 
When it rains it really pours. Turned off main, which might be a 65 year old valve and now it won’t stop dripping.

As the youts would say: FML.
 
So, 2 score and 7 years ago, I assembled my first Dyanaco amp, preamp and tuner. Required weeks of soldering to assemble the circuit boards and build these.
Would be interested in hearing more about this.
Getting my feet wet servicing vintage receivers.
 
When it rains it really pours. Turned off main, which might be a 65 year old valve and now it won’t stop dripping.

As the youts would say: FML.

Sounds like you should order 1 of every valve you need, and 1 spare just-in-case of each of those sizes and swap them all.

Yes you'll need to shut the water in the street for the main one. But when that valve doesn't work it's someone else's problem. :)
 
$125 seems pretty GD reasonable at this stage.
That was to look at it.

It's a rip off, I messaged him privately that if I was in NJ I'd look at it for $100 as that's my normal look-at-things fee. But only for normal things.
 
Back to the sharkbite cap....
Actually a push in sharkbite valve for $40ish would do it. Since it can be dripping when connected.

Grab a 5' section of pex, and use a sharkbite coupler for the outlet side since the pipe may not move to make the slipjoint.

Add a second valve to the main - they should be threaded on with a union?
Just put in a second (ball) valve downstream and leave the main open.
 
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Back to the sharkbite cap....
Actually a push in sharkbite valve for $40ish would do it. Since it can be dripping when connected.

Grab a 5' section of pex, and use a sharkbite coupler for the outlet side since the pipe may not move to make the slipjoint.

Add a second valve to the main - they should be threaded on with a union?
Just put in a second (ball) valve downstream and leave the main open.
Problem is that the existing valve leaks whether opened or closed. So I'd still need to remove that even if there was a working valve next to it. Can any plumber shut off the water at the street or do we contact the water co?
 
Problem is that the existing valve leaks whether opened or closed. So I'd still need to remove that even if there was a working valve next to it. Can any plumber shut off the water at the street or do we contact the water co?
Call water company and schedule a shutdown. If something goes wrong with the curb stop, its the water companies problem, not yours or your plumbers.
 
Would be interested in hearing more about this.
Getting my feet wet servicing vintage receivers.
Servicing what/how? I've got a Yamaha receiver from the around '81 that could use some work. Have a Hafler amp and preamp that could could use a couple of pot's replaced and maybe an led or two. In my mom's basement we have all of mine and my father's old Dynaco amps and pre-amps. His are tubed ST70's which the Audiophiles still seem to love. Maybe one day I'll deal with all of these. Still need to clean up my Thorens turntable since all the cool kid's are playing vinyl again.

I was sorta forced into building my first Dynaco when I was 13. I wanted a new "real" stereo and my audiophile dad, said all my friend's equipment was crap. Told me I could get much better sound if I built it myself. So after school I'd sit and follow the directions and then when he came home from work he'd go thru, step by step, and check every connection to make sure it was clean and proper. Took a while, which is tough for an impatient kid who just wanted a new toy.
 
Problem is that the existing valve leaks whether opened or closed.

doesn't matter if you are threading (or using a compression fitting) a new valve on. Just let it leak.

If it is a gate valve, there is probably a rebuild kit for when they shut the water off.
You can get the shut-off wrench at home depot.
 
Servicing what/how? I've got a Yamaha receiver from the around '81 that could use some work. Have a Hafler amp and preamp that could could use a couple of pot's replaced and maybe an led or two. In my mom's basement we have all of mine and my father's old Dynaco amps and pre-amps. His are tubed ST70's which the Audiophiles still seem to love. Maybe one day I'll deal with all of these. Still need to clean up my Thorens turntable since all the cool kid's are playing vinyl again.

I was sorta forced into building my first Dynaco when I was 13. I wanted a new "real" stereo and my audiophile dad, said all my friend's equipment was crap. Told me I could get much better sound if I built it myself. So after school I'd sit and follow the directions and then when he came home from work he'd go thru, step by step, and check every connection to make sure it was clean and proper. Took a while, which is tough for an impatient kid who just wanted a new toy.
That’s awesome, I get it was hard to do as a kid, but great experience to have.
Guessing a lot of your old pieces will respond well to De-Oxit and lube.

So I’m just getting my feet wet here.
Playing with some BIC 980 turntables that I thought were daunting until I opened up a receiver chassis. TTs are just mechanical (mostly), receivers have all that electronic voodoo going on.

Main project right now is finding a gremlin in a Sansui 4000 receiver- crazy pulsing in the woofer in the left speaker channel-
I suspect some bad components are sending DC to the speaker.
I’ve done some basic stuff so far, but likely next steps will be tracing and testing caps/resistors in the power supply.
Or just go brute force and rebuild all the boards.
Also upgrading lights to leds, and building a replacement wooden cabinet with @SmooveP

And on deck are some cheap Advent speakers that I’m going to use to learn to refoam surrounds.

I need a bigger workbench.
 
doesn't matter if you are threading (or using a compression fitting) a new valve on. Just let it leak.

If it is a gate valve, there is probably a rebuild kit for when they shut the water off.
You can get the shut-off wrench at Home Depot.
doesn't matter if you are threading (or using a compression fitting) a new valve on. Just let it leak.

If it is a gate valve, there is probably a rebuild kit for when they shut the water off.
You can get the shut-off wrench at home depot.
Not following. Where do yo suggest inserting a new valve that wouldn’t require shutting the water outside? No idea where the outside valve is.

IMG_2842.jpeg
 
That’s awesome, I get it was hard to do as a kid, but great experience to have.
Guessing a lot of your old pieces will respond well to De-Oxit and lube.

So I’m just getting my feet wet here.
Playing with some BIC 980 turntables that I thought were daunting until I opened up a receiver chassis. TTs are just mechanical (mostly), receivers have all that electronic voodoo going on.

Main project right now is finding a gremlin in a Sansui 4000 receiver- crazy pulsing in the woofer in the left speaker channel-
I suspect some bad components are sending DC to the speaker.
I’ve done some basic stuff so far, but likely next steps will be tracing and testing caps/resistors in the power supply.
Or just go brute force and rebuild all the boards.
Also upgrading lights to leds, and building a replacement wooden cabinet with @SmooveP

And on deck are some cheap Advent speakers that I’m going to use to learn to refoam surrounds.

I need a bigger workbench.
Forgot I also have an old Nakamichi tape deck and some D
That’s awesome, I get it was hard to do as a kid, but great experience to have.
Guessing a lot of your old pieces will respond well to De-Oxit and lube.

So I’m just getting my feet wet here.
Playing with some BIC 980 turntables that I thought were daunting until I opened up a receiver chassis. TTs are just mechanical (mostly), receivers have all that electronic voodoo going on.

Main project right now is finding a gremlin in a Sansui 4000 receiver- crazy pulsing in the woofer in the left speaker channel-
I suspect some bad components are sending DC to the speaker.
I’ve done some basic stuff so far, but likely next steps will be tracing and testing caps/resistors in the power supply.
Or just go brute force and rebuild all the boards.
Also upgrading lights to leds, and building a replacement wooden cabinet with @SmooveP

And on deck are some cheap Advent speakers that I’m going to use to learn to refoam surrounds.

I need a bigger workbench.

I forgot, i also have a Nakamichi tape deck and my old Dynaco speakers and dad's Frazier black box speakers. I just did a two second google search to check the name of my father's speakers. This old post on a vintage audio forum was the first thing I popped up.

Let me guess........you purchased them from Sid Zimet (Audio by Zimet) in Roslyn. The speakers you are referring to would be Frazier Black Box IIs (I have a pair myself that I purchased "many moons ago" as well.)
There is quite a Frazier following over at Audiokarma.org.
I still listen to mine on a regular basis.
:D
joelongwood, Jul 18, 2007
#4
Poster mentions Sid Zimet who sold us all of our equipment back then. Lived about 2 miles from his shop.
 
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