What have you done to your bike today?

What do you think you need? Those old Schwinn-pattern tandems usually used a timing chain on the same side, so, all you would need in terms of "weird" parts are the cranks. You would want one single-speed crank, and one multi-speed (cheap way of doing it). The old cranks used a chainring that had a set of bolt holes for the rear-drive ring to be bolted to. Clever use of spacers will help line up the inner chainrings (which need to be smaller than the driving chainring). Buy the cups and bearings from the same company as the cranks. Wald is a good source (or Tange).

A set of vernier calipers are a good investment for working on older bikes. You don't even really need particularly high-precision ones... The harbor freight digital one is fine.

You can PM me if you need help sourcing stuff; I'm on bed-rest, more or less, for a few weeks (and like old American stuff)
Thanks for the info. So far I hopefully won't need anything other than tires and new chains. Cranks, headset, fork, bars, brakes, etc are all around. Bike was stashed in somewhat rideable condition in an old outdoor playhouse sometime in the 90's. Working on countering the ravages of time right now. Wheels are in the worst condition at the moment. Tires are dry rotted thru. Bearings in cranks and headset still had semi functional grease (i.e. not dry). Seats/seat pans aren't great either, but working with what I have first and seeing where it gets me.

Stripped part of the frame today, and have a bunch of parts bathing in citrus degreaser.
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Naval jelly (sold by Henkel or Loctite, depending on where you buy it) works great on rust removal, albeit slowly, but follow the instructions exactly. Phosphoric acid solution works too, for anything you can fit into a soaking vessel. There are good instructions for the latter on car forums, but it requires a good amount of precautions.
 
Does anyone have a good tutorial, write up, or advice on how set up road tubeless for an impatient first-timer? After blowing up another expensive latex tube this weekend, I'm thinking about giving it a go.

Installing on Pacenti SL23/Forza rims which I think have tubeless tape installed from the wheelbuilder (how do I know if it is in fact tubeless tape?).
 
@hotsauce first thing you want to do is check that the rim has retention ridges along the bed, where the bead sits. These can be easily felt by running your fingernail from the sidewall corner towards the center channel. If you don't feel a catch/small bump, the rims are a no-go, at least with HP road tubeless. Without that catch, the tire can break a bead under heavy cornering.

Tubeless tape is simply plastic strapping tape; it will be smooth, and go from sidewall to sidewall. Most builders will install the tape on tubeless compatible rims, since it also functions just fine as rim tape.

Mounting the tires can be easy or hard, depending on how well the rim is designed, but the general gist: install one side of the tire, install a tube, install the other bead, and inflate until they pop into place. Break one bead completely after deflating the tire (note: if both beads pop off, don't proceed–burping is super dangerous at high speeds), and remove the tube. Install your tubeless valve, replace the bead over the sidewall, taking care to only use as much of the well as necessary, or inflating may be difficult. Inflate as usual, either with a high-volume pump or CO2.

If you have a compressor, you can usually skip the tube step.

You can add sealant directly to the tire before pushing the last section of bead over, or through the valve, if you prefer.
 
@wschruba, thanks for the primer. Rims are definitely tubeless compatible, just curious if how they're taped. It's the whole adding sealant thing I feel uncomfortable about. I may get one of those booster pumps. No space for a compressor unfortunately.
 
The Bontranger FlashCharger works well, except for the times that it doesn't. I've set up, road, CX, 29er and plus using that pump.
The tubeless valves have removable cores. Buy a Park Tool Valve Core Remover Once you get the tires on, and the beads seated in each side, remove the core, and put in 2oz Stans using the small 2oz bottles they sell with the pointy tip. Keep this bottle, and refill it from a large one each time you need to add Stans. When filling, have the valve at about 8 o'clock so the fluid has room to flow down into the tire without coming back out the valve.

As for the rim tape, if you're unsure, buy some Stan's tape and do two layers. start about 3-4 inches before the valve hole, and finish after. Make a small hole for the valve to ensure a tight fit.

Pro Tip:
Take the valve core out when trying to seat the beads.
 
@MadisonDan, I knew you'd respond to this one. Should I wax my chain too? :)

Now: What tires? Looking at Schwalbe Pro One.
Wax... yes.. another example of @Delish 's free watts, sort of.
If I were to get new road tubeless tires, I'd prolly go with the 25mm Pro One, cause #RideSchwalbe however, I currently have Specialized Roubaix Road Tubeless 23/25 on the front, and some Bontranger 26mm tubeless tire on the rear. I also had years of good experirnces on the Hutchinson Fusion (?) tubeless tires.
 
OK, I ordered the parts. Will set it up when everything arrives. Can't wait to start pulling out big Stanimal boogers. If everything goes well with the road setup, I'll likely do it for cross too.
 
I have about 500-600 miles on some 25mm Pro-One's set up tubeless. They roll quite fast and corner really, really well. I really like how they ride a lot. However I have an issue with a puncture that sealed initially, but decides to open up at times and piss for a couple revolutions. I am certainly questioning their durability right now.
 
Pedaling my cross bike sounds like an orchestra of nails on a chalkboard right now. I have bigger issues to worry about with that bike.

Plus I have brand new Clement MXP tires laying around. Who wants to buy them so I can go tubeless?
 
Pedaling my cross bike sounds like an orchestra of nails on a chalkboard right now. I have bigger issues to worry about with that bike.
Mine makes some weird noises too. Can't tell if it's the BB or SS freewheel. If it still rides, YOLO.
 
View attachment 50879 Some trimming, less sealant, ss and now 21.25lb full suspension XL 29er

The idea of full suspension SS makes me giddy. If Schwinn was still around they'd have something funky to mess with, fer sure. Not as horrific as that super high pivot Klein and good enough for Lenoski - not sure if he ever competed with one but def used it in some of his demos. @David Taylor How does your Trek climb? XL w/100mm stem at 21lbs? Haha, Nuts. Get a dropper, man lol. You can afford the weight.
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