The DIY thread - DIYourself

I needed clean 12v with enough amps to light the glow plug. It's a combustion chamber for oil. It's pretty much a hollowed out heatsink for combustion then the fan pushes air past it.
Electrically speaking the efficiency of the battery charger permanently connected to 2 batteries in parallel must be through the roof...
 
I feel like this is a @Patrick question but if anyone else has input...

When the Radon guy put in the system before we moved in he drilled a few test holes about 3/4" wide. They got filled in with silicone but I think they barely filled 1/2" deep and with yesterday's storm we had water coming up through the holes, really one of them mostly.

I want to patch them, anyone have best suggestions? I was thinking best bet was a type of Hydraulic Cement. Specifically: https://www.lowes.com/pd/UGL-Fast-Plug-Hydraulic-Cement-4-lbs/3033246

Figured I'd throw in some foam/backer deep in the hole and trowel this in.
 
I feel like this is a @Patrick question but if anyone else has input...

When the Radon guy put in the system before we moved in he drilled a few test holes about 3/4" wide. They got filled in with silicone but I think they barely filled 1/2" deep and with yesterday's storm we had water coming up through the holes, really one of them mostly.

I want to patch them, anyone have best suggestions? I was thinking best bet was a type of Hydraulic Cement. Specifically: https://www.lowes.com/pd/UGL-Fast-Plug-Hydraulic-Cement-4-lbs/3033246

Figured I'd throw in some foam/backer deep in the hole and trowel this in.

Use anchoring epoxy. Two stage expanding epoxy with syringe applicator.

Do you have a sump pump? Water may just find the next easiest way in
 
Use anchoring epoxy. Two stage expanding epoxy with syringe applicator.

Do you have a sump pump? Water may just find the next easiest way in
No sump pump. House is on a hill so i think the situation is really rectified by making sure the water moves around the house. 7" of rain yesterday so it was a little abnormal.

If I fill that hole then the only other water coming in would be through the cove joint in one spot. And not the craziest amount either.

I thought about a sump pump but that has it's own issues besides cost. If the water can be re-routed even better.
 
I got tired of replacing the crap Flo-Tecs o so often and bought a proper sump pump bout 5yrs ago. Probly time to put its replacement on the shelf, JIC.

But I won’t replace my water heaters til they STB…. go figure.
 
I feel like this is a @Patrick question but if anyone else has input...

When the Radon guy put in the system before we moved in he drilled a few test holes about 3/4" wide. They got filled in with silicone but I think they barely filled 1/2" deep and with yesterday's storm we had water coming up through the holes, really one of them mostly.

I want to patch them, anyone have best suggestions? I was thinking best bet was a type of Hydraulic Cement. Specifically: https://www.lowes.com/pd/UGL-Fast-Plug-Hydraulic-Cement-4-lbs/3033246

Figured I'd throw in some foam/backer deep in the hole and trowel this in.
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Pretty much the same thing.
 
Probly time to put its replacement on the shelf, JIC.
After nervously checking the sump pump multiple times the other night since it was cycling every 5-8 minutes or so during the peak of the rain storm I said the same thing to my wife.

I know I replaced the sump pump myself but it has to be over 5 years or maybe closer to 10.

Added this to the priority list of to dos sooner than later. I figure I’ll keep the old one around as a standby because I’m always a JIC scenario person.
 
No sump pump. House is on a hill so i think the situation is really rectified by making sure the water moves around the house. 7" of rain yesterday so it was a little abnormal.

If I fill that hole then the only other water coming in would be through the cove joint in one spot. And not the craziest amount either.

I thought about a sump pump but that has it's own issues besides cost. If the water can be re-routed even better.
I have no reason to suggest you should deviate from @Patrick suggestion. I'll only chime in that when I put in my radon system I put hydraulic cement around my 4" PVC suction pipe and remain impressed at how tight that is against the pipe to this day 5 or 6 years later.
 
I have no reason to suggest you should deviate from @Patrick suggestion. I'll only chime in that when I put in my radon system I put hydraulic cement around my 4" PVC suction pipe and remain impressed at how tight that is against the pipe to this day 5 or 6 years later.

It would be cheaper, esp if you can grab a cup from someone.

The problem with the epoxy is the tip is done after first day, need to mix buy hand afterwards
 
I bought hydraulic cement actually after doing research. Seems like it may be the way to go. Plus it doesn't go bad so cost wise and environmentally it's better than using 1/20 of an epoxy and then tossing the rest.

I pulled the plug of silicone out of the floor and it popped out with a layer of concrete grit on the outside of it leaving a clean hole. New Slicone probably would have worked now but cement seems like the way to go.

Now I know if I want to clean a hole in cement, fill it with silicone, let it harden and then pull it out. :)
 
I was going to post this in the frown section, but since I fixed it myself with minimal issues or damage I will put it here.

Went down to basement around 6am to do my morning Zwift session. I was heading back upstairs and I stepped in a puddle as I was passing by the furnace (in my socks of course). Definitely wasn't there 1.5 hours prior to my ride or this would have certainly canceled my morning session and been in the frown section.

After moving some of the usual basement storage bins (plastic for a reason) out of the way, I quickly assessed this was something with the Humidifier drain. This happened once before when the end of the PVC pipe got bumped when I changed the water filter, so I assumed it was the same problem. This leads to the pipe backing up and overflowing where it connects to the whole house humidifier. Checked the end of the pipe and it wasnt touching the french drain so must be clogged pipe.

Since this PVC drain pipe is one piece and glued together for this specific purpose, I decided the fastest way to fix this was to remove it from the side of the furnace. Once I had it off I started by sliding a coat hanger into the first section and then turning it around to tap the end on the floor. Bunch of muck came out but I wasnt satisfied this was all of it. Then had the idea to use my high pressure bike pump to force a burst of air into the pipe and blow out the rest. Did that twice and some more stuff came out. Then another stroke of genius was to carry the whole 7 foot section of pipe up to the kitchen. I opened the sliding door to the deck and stuck one end out. Then ran the kitchen sink and used the spray hose to reach across the counter with just enough room to force the spray head into the pipe and bingo - dumped a whole bunch more muck out onto the deck.

Reinstalled the pipe and tested the humidifier and all working properly with no leaks. Left some towels down on the floor just in case but it should be good to go.

As I noted to the wife, this is probably at least the 3rd or 4th time we had some kind of water leak or issue in the basement overnight or early morning, and if I had not gone down for my workout no one would have seen it until much more water and damage done.

While indifferent about my Zwift workout she was glad/impressed I could fix it myself without calling emergency heating guy.

And only an hour late to work.


72718848624__958D6630-2CA3-41EB-9C5F-169D7555BA82.fullsizerender.jpegIMG_4122.jpeg
 
Hydronic zone valves. I primarily heat my house with a minisplit these days, but I do have a hydronic baseboard system as well that's nice to have the option to use when it's particularly cold out (so...now). One of the zone valves was sticking open when I last used it, which made one room insanely hot and cost a fortune in propane. I wound up just closing the shut off valves on that zone because I could not get it to stop sticking open, but I want to just replace all four zone valve motors.

The motor is labeled as 37421l-6-106, which comes up when googling, but there's no obvious 1:1 replacement and there seem to be dozens of similar looking options online. Anyone familiar with these? I went to the local supply house a couple of years ago with that part number and they gave me something that's completely different than what's installed currently.

PXL_20240112_212919982.jpg
 
I was going to post this in the frown section, but since I fixed it myself with minimal issues or damage I will put it here.

Went down to basement around 6am to do my morning Zwift session. I was heading back upstairs and I stepped in a puddle as I was passing by the furnace (in my socks of course). Definitely wasn't there 1.5 hours prior to my ride or this would have certainly canceled my morning session and been in the frown section.

After moving some of the usual basement storage bins (plastic for a reason) out of the way, I quickly assessed this was something with the Humidifier drain. This happened once before when the end of the PVC pipe got bumped when I changed the water filter, so I assumed it was the same problem. This leads to the pipe backing up and overflowing where it connects to the whole house humidifier. Checked the end of the pipe and it wasnt touching the french drain so must be clogged pipe.

Since this PVC drain pipe is one piece and glued together for this specific purpose, I decided the fastest way to fix this was to remove it from the side of the furnace. Once I had it off I started by sliding a coat hanger into the first section and then turning it around to tap the end on the floor. Bunch of muck came out but I wasnt satisfied this was all of it. Then had the idea to use my high pressure bike pump to force a burst of air into the pipe and blow out the rest. Did that twice and some more stuff came out. Then another stroke of genius was to carry the whole 7 foot section of pipe up to the kitchen. I opened the sliding door to the deck and stuck one end out. Then ran the kitchen sink and used the spray hose to reach across the counter with just enough room to force the spray head into the pipe and bingo - dumped a whole bunch more muck out onto the deck.

Reinstalled the pipe and tested the humidifier and all working properly with no leaks. Left some towels down on the floor just in case but it should be good to go.

As I noted to the wife, this is probably at least the 3rd or 4th time we had some kind of water leak or issue in the basement overnight or early morning, and if I had not gone down for my workout no one would have seen it until much more water and damage done.

While indifferent about my Zwift workout she was glad/impressed I could fix it myself without calling emergency heating guy.

And only an hour late to work.


View attachment 231157View attachment 231158
What's all that black stuff? We don't have a drain for the humidifier but have it instead for the evaporators for each furnace.
 
What's all that black stuff? We don't have a drain for the humidifier but have it instead for the evaporators for each furnace.
Seems to be residue and buildup from the water pad since the water here is a little hard. I’ve never had that get clogged like that before so I don’t know why it happened now.

The evap for the furnace has its own drain line.

Whole house humidifier is like this one it’s the drain line that got clogged.
IMG_4137.png
 
Hydronic zone valves. I primarily heat my house with a minisplit these days, but I do have a hydronic baseboard system as well that's nice to have the option to use when it's particularly cold out (so...now). One of the zone valves was sticking open when I last used it, which made one room insanely hot and cost a fortune in propane. I wound up just closing the shut off valves on that zone because I could not get it to stop sticking open, but I want to just replace all four zone valve motors.

The motor is labeled as 37421l-6-106, which comes up when googling, but there's no obvious 1:1 replacement and there seem to be dozens of similar looking options online. Anyone familiar with these? I went to the local supply house a couple of years ago with that part number and they gave me something that's completely different than what's installed currently.

View attachment 231216

that may be the s/n of the motor?
from the shape it might be a honeywell valve.
should be replaceable


can always just sweat a new one in
 
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