iman29
Well-Known Member
good point!
The DIY thread - DIYourself
- Thread starter Red Mosquito
- Start date
Not the best idea to build up more next to the house, holding the water there. Putting in some drainage underneath wood help, but that's gonna $$$. We have a guy we like, but he's based in Chatham, and will not be cheap. Simonfay Landscaping, for shits and giggles, just to see how prices compare.
qclabrat
Well-Known Member
I was just about to say the same. Fix the drainage and ponding before any landscape work. Especially if you get water in the basement and using the French drains regularly. https://www.hightechlandscapes.com/about/
I'm building up very little nothing crazy - and yes, drainage will be in the works too. (I guess I should've noted that, ha)
good Q - my gut would be to go a size larger with the foam tube.
put the split facing down. Tape the joints.
what are the other options?
Foam vs fiberglass unless there was something else
ekuhn
Well-Known Member
Heat cable I am assuming.
Armaflex Foam from the depot is your friend. Joint down. Use lots of tape at the joints and several mid span as the peel off glue isn't the best in changing temperature environments.
Armaflex Foam from the depot is your friend. Joint down. Use lots of tape at the joints and several mid span as the peel off glue isn't the best in changing temperature environments.
Armaflex 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation Accessory HST05812 - The Home Depot
The Armacell 1/2 in. x 6 ft. Armaflex Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation helps protect your pipes from freezing, mold and condensation. This rubber insulation can fit your copper and iron pipes. Using
www.homedepot.com
Anyone have experience with metal roofing?
I have a couple of sheds with asphalt shingles that really need replacement before this winter. I was considering using the exposed fastener metal panel type products to replace the shingles, but I do have some concerns based on what I've read about the screws backing out over time, process for cutting panels to length, etc. There also appear to be some snap lock type products that seem to fall somewhere in between the through fastened panels and an actual standing seam roof. I'm not opposed to spending a bit more on a nicer solution because the square footage is relatively small (one shed is just over one square, the other a bit bigger).
I have a couple of sheds with asphalt shingles that really need replacement before this winter. I was considering using the exposed fastener metal panel type products to replace the shingles, but I do have some concerns based on what I've read about the screws backing out over time, process for cutting panels to length, etc. There also appear to be some snap lock type products that seem to fall somewhere in between the through fastened panels and an actual standing seam roof. I'm not opposed to spending a bit more on a nicer solution because the square footage is relatively small (one shed is just over one square, the other a bit bigger).
ekuhn
Well-Known Member
These are the install details from Metal Sales typical of a Pole Barn. You can buy sheets to length or best to be cut with a nibbler. Screw types are in the install guide. Home depot has sheets, but not sure of all the other aluminum pieces.
The details are simple, just need to know all the trim pieces you need. Unsure of your location, but typicall Lumber Yards all have connections to get similar products, or even J Fazzio in Howell/Gloucester
Classic Rib® - Metal Sales
www.metalsales.us.com
These are the install details from Metal Sales typical of a Pole Barn. You can buy sheets to length or best to be cut with a nibbler. Screw types are in the install guide. Home depot has sheets, but not sure of all the other aluminum pieces.
The details are simple, just need to know all the trim pieces you need. Unsure of your location, but typicall Lumber Yards all have connections to get similar products, or even J Fazzio in Howell/Gloucester
Classic Rib® - Metal Sales
Thanks, that's what my default plan has been and agree that sorting out the various trim pieces is the largest complication.
I'm up in the Morristown area and the local Lowes carries this stuff. There's also an ABC Building Supply which looks to distribute a lot of different metal roofing options, but I wanted to do a bit of homework before wasting their time with dumb questions. I do have a friend with a metal shop so access to a nibbler etc isn't an issue.
ekuhn
Well-Known Member
I see Randolph now in your sig. Its been proven in the past that with ABC you just need to find the right salesman, who's knowledgeable on the product(s). The last metal roof we did, we were able to get the panels cut direct to length which was a huge time savings, all were within 1/4" which is absorbed in the trim pcs anyway.
That would definitely save time and complication. The local place seems pretty well reviewed so I'll try to hit them up on Friday. I may only do one of the sheds this season, but I'd just order everything at once to simplify things.
JDurk
Well-Known Member
I need to paint risers, posts and wall trim. Stain my treads and handrail. In what order should I follow? How long before cats and humans are permitted to walk on the stained treads?
iman29
Well-Known Member
while my car hasnt been inside on my side of the garage for like a year thanks to previous Rower purchase, the opener on my side often flakes out and I decided I dont want to risk losing any fingers. I called a local guy and he is fine with whatever I buy myself (recommended belt drive Craftsman to match my other one) and he will install it for $200 cash.
treads first - it isn't the stain that is the problem, it is the polyurethane.
water based will be dry to the touch at 6-8 hours, but a shoe may leave a mark. 24 hours to hard
24 hours with oil based. 70 degrees, 70% humidity.
now the tricky part - you got stain on the risers and stringers - that will bleed through a latex paint,
so it needs to be sealed with an oil based primer - Zinsser Cover Stain will do. 24 hours then coat with your favorite latex.
The poly on the treads will make clean-up of any drips easy. mineral spirits while priming. water on a towel when painting.
i followed this guy.
So i was visiting a relatives house and the kids were messing around in the basement and they noticed a puddle of water on the ground. It was steaming hot and everything was soaked in the corner.
I pulled out the floor foam and insulation and discovered it to be their radiant floor line had a pin hole leak in it. At the time i didn't think hard enough but now i remember they had the floors done an could have put a staple through it but not sure the type of floor they put down.
Anyway the furnace is running, zone 1 is calling for heat which is able to close off zone 2 3 and 4 because the zone 1 valve is first before them and the circulator pump is running. There are 3 thermostats upstairs, none go to the valves for the radiant floor.
Hot water is pissing out, cold water is dropping the temperature of the holding tank, gas furnace turns on, the holding tank temperature sensor calls for zone 1 to open....why?
My point is why is there no thermostat for the floor and why does the holding tank ask to open the first zone valve and operate the circulator pump
I pulled out the floor foam and insulation and discovered it to be their radiant floor line had a pin hole leak in it. At the time i didn't think hard enough but now i remember they had the floors done an could have put a staple through it but not sure the type of floor they put down.
Anyway the furnace is running, zone 1 is calling for heat which is able to close off zone 2 3 and 4 because the zone 1 valve is first before them and the circulator pump is running. There are 3 thermostats upstairs, none go to the valves for the radiant floor.
Hot water is pissing out, cold water is dropping the temperature of the holding tank, gas furnace turns on, the holding tank temperature sensor calls for zone 1 to open....why?
My point is why is there no thermostat for the floor and why does the holding tank ask to open the first zone valve and operate the circulator pump
there may be an embedded sensor for the floor with minimum temps set?
I don't think the aquastat would open a zone valve.