Sram XX1 Crankset creaking

Dairyman

Dairyman

Active Member
I am trying to diagnose an issue with my basically new XX1 crankset. It started to creak like crazy from the left side. I swapped the pedals, checked the chain and chainring. I moved on to torque specs and noticed the non drive side nut was loose. I tightened it which in the process made a lot of noise. After taking it for a spin around the block for about 10 min it was creaking and coming loose.

I decided to take the whole crankset apart greased and reassembled it back to recommended torque specs. It came from the shop wtih grease on the nut so i de-greased it and added blue loc tite(torqued to 54nm same as the drive side). Same thing still coming loose. I am looking for any ideas what is causing the nut the to come loose and creak? The non drive side nut says do not remove and the drive side says torque to 54nm. I did remove the do not remove nut since it was already hand tight.

(sorry for any typos grammar mistakes typed this in a rush)

Running on a Pivot LES SS
Sram xx1 eagle 12 spd crankset
kmc 10 spd chain
absolute black chainring
chris king stainless cog
enduro bearings bb92 with a 30mm spindle

the entire setup has less than 300 miles and the new bb bearing are brand new
 
rightside.jpg


left.png
 

Attachments

  • left.png
    left.png
    150 KB · Views: 297
Listen to Jim. Tighten everything up, and then loosen it.... As you're loosening the hex on the crank, does it go easy, then more resistance, then easy till it's off?
I think you need that more resistance part, and if not, then Jim is probably right
 
jimvreeland said:
Quick guess without actually seeing it. Too many spacers on the drive side which isn't allowing the other side to tighten fully and bottom out.
Click to expand...
Don’t remember seeing any spacers. I’ll take it apart again this weekend. Is there a rule of thumb for how many spacers there should be?

Should the non drive side nut be greased or have lock tite (the one that says do not remove)
 
If the creak doesnt go away I am going to upgrade to the new DUB sram crankset. XX1 isnt out yet think it is worth the wait? Or should i go with the x0 version? I do weight 209lbs and it is for a "race" bike
 
Dairyman said:
Don’t remember seeing any spacers. I’ll take it apart again this weekend. Is there a rule of thumb for how many spacers there should be?

Should the non drive side nut be greased or have lock tite (the one that says do not remove)
Click to expand...

Put it together with no spacers and see how much space you have between the spider and bearing. A GXP crank doesn't actually need the drive-side spacers to work because the crank is held in place by the stepped non-drive side bearing.
 
I have the older GxP xx1 crank on my new les and I have the seals and wobble washer only, no spacer. No problems so far but I am at about 100 miles. Als AB oval.
 
I took everything apart this weekend. Cleaned and greased, no spacers torqued both sides to 54nm(drive and non drive side nut). Applied more lock tite to the non drive side nut. Standard grease to the drive side. Creak is still there. Swapped the pedals twice and greased the threads. Checked the chainring tightness. Also had new enduros bearings pressed in.

If I stand on the non drive side crank I hear the creak. When standing and applying force to the drive side it is silent.

I tried to remove the spindle from the non drive crank. It didn’t come off easily and I didn’t want to damage it.

Any other ideas?
 
Check the crank arm at the pedal boss for play. Wiggle the pedal up and down. That’s what happened on my Race Face Next cranks te first time. Basically see if the thread/pedal boss is moving in the carbon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom