Sram Rival 22 Hydraulic Shifter needs to "double tap" to go up or down the cassette.

Pearl

Pearl

THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING
can't figure this out for the life of me. i'm certain i have the limits set up right as it finds both the 10 and 42 tooth cogs fine. I put a new cable in a while ago, and it still does the same thing.

say i'm in the 42 t and shift down to 10, it will shift fine. but in order to go back from 10 to the 42, i will have to hear the shifter click TWICE before it's happy to go up the back of the cassette. if i try to go back down, i need to hear the shifter click twice to start going back down.

i've somewhat gotten used to this, but i know it isn't right, since i have the same shifter on another bike and it doesn't do this. i thought the housing was binding up somewhere inside the frame, but i've checked that it isn't.

short of spending $3,000 for AXS, what else can it be? is the shifter just tired? what else can i do?
 
Sounds like the cable is sticking to me. Replace the housing.

Also doing a WD40 flush and hitting the shifter internals with tri flow probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.
 
Is the cable end fully seated in the shifter? I had trouble shifting my Sram force hydro post a new cable and the culprit was a not-fully-seated cable end.
 
did a WD flush, cleaned up everything so i can see whats going on, the cable does look fully seated after i took the cover off and watched it go through the gears.



if you didnt get motion sickness, you can tell when the bike makes the shift and when it doesnt, once i gve it two clicks in the right direction, it starts going the way i want it to. if mess with the cable tension anymore, it starts mis shifting all over the place.
 
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Pearl said:
did a WD flush, cleaned up everything so i can see whats going on, the cable does look fully seated after i took the cover off and watched it go through the gears.



if you didnt get motion sickness, you can tell when the bike makes the shift and when it doesnt, once i gve it two clicks in the right direction, it starts going the way i want it to. if mess with the cable tension anymore, it starts mis shifting all over the place.
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Drop it off at Halter's and close the thread.
 
Since they updated their OS to Windows you have to double click to operate the shifter. Didn't you know that? But seriously, the problem is the first word of the thread title.
 
so i figured it out, sort of. i replaced the cable and housing, it was sort of better, but still the same. i realized it has to do with the friction/bends with the way it runs in the frame. its a Exploro-type frame where the cable runs into the top tube. So I think I'm boned
 
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heres that extra bendy-ness, is it too bendy?

FW18nmS.jpeg

i know sram loves them long loops in the back
 
Just cable tie it to the downtube or top tube on the outside. Problem solved.
 
I know you said you figured it out, but looking at the video it almost seems like there's just a bit too much slack in the cable. I'd almost say to back that tension adjuster on the derailleur out 1/2 turn at a time as you're trying to downshift until you get to the sweet spot.

But I think that cable loop in the back is much bigger than it needs to be. Extra cable length usually doesn't help shifting performance.
 
i cant imagine the cable being tighter, but its worth a short to play around with. I've shortened the loop in the back as well... internal cables are dumb.

inb4wirelessorSS
 
Pearl said:
i cant imagine the cable being tighter, but its worth a short to play around with. I've shortened the loop in the back as well... internal cables are dumb.

inb4wirelessorSS
Click to expand...

Clearly you messed up but can't pinpoint it take it, all apart clean it and do it over with more care.
 
Man, I haven't used--let alone seen--a mechanical SRAM road group in...6 years? 7?

Honestly can't remember if it's normal, but if it doesn't work right with no cable attached, it's the shifter.

If it stops working properly when you attach the cable, it's either the cable/housing/associated stuff, or the shifter is a few days from crapping the bed.

I watched the video and saw nothing "weird" other than the hesitant shift to the small sprocket. Cut a new length of housing, and replace what you've got on there. Weird shifting problems are solved 95% of the time with a new cable/housing, the remaining 4% with derailleur hanger alignment, and the last bit by changing the shifter or derailleur.
 
im battling this again. going to replace the whole shibang tomorrow, even though this shifter cable is brandy new. hopefully that sram thingamajig holds together
 
Okay, new cable and housing, spring for the BONTRAGER ELITEEEE instead of the spook of the jagwire and some rando cable. Feels amazing. Let’s see how long it takes for it to feel like shit.
 
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