Me and my bike gettin' HITCHED!

JonF

Well-Known Member
NO, not that way. We are getting a lil crazy being cooped up, but it's not that bad yet. However...

It's time to to a little trail maintenance to the deepest depths of the "backyard" loop. Neglect, erosion and rot are amongst the things needing addressing.

Problem 1: its a little too remote to be walking solo and dragging materials.
Problem 2: Does no one make a generic utility trailer hitch for a bike? NOPE. Cargo racks, sure, but no hitches.

Let's fab up a "reverse pintle" hitch to drag the Gorilla cart behind the hardtail.

I want to connect these two bad boys together:

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Need to fab up a hitch that mounts to the seat post, so the cart can pivot and not hit the rear tire.
 
I tossed a couple designs around from mild to wild and decided a simple frame from 3/4" structural box section that attaches to the existing cargo rack frame bosses. The bottom chainstay half is easy and square, but the seatstays have some funky angles.

Cope the ends of the box tube to form a mounting end.

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BEHOLD, the gratuitous TIG bead shot!

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always thought about using a tag-a-long kid trailer type thing, then integrate a cart with "training wheels" to keep it from tipping.

I like your thinking here.
 

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Great project. Love your welding table!

BTW - what machine do you have? I just got an Everlast 255EXT which I've been happy with.
 
always thought about using a tag-a-long kid trailer type thing, then integrate a cart with "training wheels" to keep it from tipping.

I like your thinking here.
I saw an abundance of those, i guess they are as universal as it gets since not every bike has cargo rack bosses. The QR axle attachment also seems popular but this bike has through axles and so thats no good.
 
Great project. Love your welding table!

BTW - what machine do you have? I just got an Everlast 255EXT which I've been happy with.
Hey Don, Most recent machine is the Everlast 210 EXT for TIG and an older Tweco for MIG. I mainly work with ferrous metals so i didnt need the extra amperage of the 255. Though, that blast tack function would have been really handy for tacking up parts during fitment. Jig table is really handy and even fits a modern XL mountain bike!
 
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With some basic parts cut out and cleaned up, time to get the subject on the operating table for the fit-up phase.

Trying to work out the angles for the seat stay braces. Cutting a 20" birdmouth into the tube gets me the bend i need to get the mounting flange flat to the face of threaded boss.

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Plenty of clearance for everything.

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Hey Don, Most recent machine is the Everlast 210 EXT for TIG and an older Tweco for MIG. I mainly work with ferrous metals so i didnt need the extra amperage of the 255. Though, that blast tack function would have been really handy for tacking up parts during fitment. Jig table is really handy and even fits a modern XL mountain bike!

I'm still learning the 255 but so far I really like it. My welding buddy said he was impressed with what he has seen and heard with Everlast and their prices are much more competitive than Miller. I've been thinking of getting a MIG but with the hand control torch that came with the 255EXT and the blast tack I might be fine.

One of these days I'll get myself a proper Acorn style table. My current one I made the top out of 5 sticks of C channel so I can clamp stuff down but it's not nearly as nice as that style you have.

Edit - really clean design. I like that a lot better than a seatpost mount. Seeing your fixtures holding the bike up make me even more jealous of that table!
 
With the basic frame aligned and welded out, we need to add a hitch receiver mechanism. The gorilla cart has a simple pin and clevis meant to be used with a lawn tractor. That means, we need a reverse pintle of sorts so i'll drop a mounting bar from the frame, drill a few attachment holes and stick an eye bolt on as the hitch.


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Coat of paint and she's ready to rock.

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I'm still learning the 255 but so far I really like it. My welding buddy said he was impressed with what he has seen and heard with Everlast and their prices are much more competitive than Miller. I've been thinking of getting a MIG but with the hand control torch that came with the 255EXT and the blast tack I might be fine.

One of these days I'll get myself a proper Acorn style table. My current one I made the top out of 5 sticks of C channel so I can clamp stuff down but it's not nearly as nice as that style you have.
TIG has its advantages, but when doing general fabrication, its hard to beat the ease of a good MIG gun. To be able to walk around the table and workpiece and easily zap tacks with one hand while holding material or whatever in the other is difficult with TIG. Torch in 1 hand, filler in second, pedal under foot or between the knees leaves little else to hold on to. ;) I prefer to tack up larger things with the mig gun, then tig the rest out if its managable. There's always limits though, it its too heavy gauge or not a pretty piece, mig it all the way.

The newest style jig tables are the tab and slot like you see here. Lazer cut from the length, width and thickness of your choice (i went with 3/8) and a grid of 16mm (5/8) holes, you weld it out yourself and priced very reasonably. They guarantee no more than 15 thou variance over 3" if done right. That's a much as you'd want for general fab! The amount of jig table accessories from Stronghand and others is astounding.
 
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Time to put her to use. First order of business, patch up the old log bridge. Quite a few rotten and outright missing planks. Need to do something about the transition to the ground. Maybe a ramp of sorts? :D

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I think its also high time the trails get a little spicier.... ?


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always thought about using a tag-a-long kid trailer type thing, then integrate a cart with "training wheels" to keep it from tipping.
I like your thinking here.
I've been eyeing this baby. Don't really have a use for it but it's cool.

for now I have the Burley I used to haul the kids around in, that can be put to cargo use if need be.
 
do something about the transition

can you bury the ends ? rather than cutting back the rails, extend them and cut in a small trench with a mattock?

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we've also put an "end plank" on, and pushed dirt up against it at 6MR.
Making a natural ramp that won't wash through. (squared off the rails)
These are on posts, so not sitting on the ground.

Before the ramp....
1586792519729.png
 
Great setup and execution! Few years ago I had converted a B.O.B trailer into a fat trailer for my local shop and it came out great! Would love to make another one if someone has one they want to get rid of.
 

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Nice build. Jealous of your tools, skills and ingenuity. Hope you keep updating us with your projects - both trail and garage.
 
can you bury the ends ? rather than cutting back the rails, extend them and cut in a small trench with a mattock?

View attachment 125418

we've also put an "end plank" on, and pushed dirt up against it at 6MR.
Making a natural ramp that won't wash through. (squared off the rails)
These are on posts, so not sitting on the ground.

Before the ramp....
View attachment 125417
That bridge is a very basic makeshift crossing over a small runoff area. It just a couple old black locust trunks with rough sawn planking covering it. Black locust is tough as nails and is holding up fine even where its touching earth, its the planking that rots away mostly. Im leaving the bridge as is, just patching it as needed. Im thinking i'll just make a small downward angled ramp from 2x4 and planking--it only needs to decent 12-18" or so. But maybe off to the right i could build a small kicker ramp or drop but the ground you'd land on is highly irregular with very lumpy roots--not the smoothest landing area, especially if you get it all wrong. Dunno, those are ambitious and its easy enough to ride as-is.
 
Great setup and execution! Few years ago I had converted a B.O.B trailer into a fat trailer for my local shop and it came out great! Would love to make another one if someone has one they want to get rid of.
How does that articulate while underway? I'm not seeing any obvious pivots where it connects to the bike. I like the fat tire rear though, burly indeed!
 
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