Lawn Maintenance

@iggy, from my understanding Dimension will also help control Poa annua. Which germinates around this time of the year. I have some of those too in the yard.

if you put dimension, barricade, haltz, or any other pre this time of year you are opting out of your fall seeding. Fall is when it all goes down...this is when you start fresh because you have optimal temps and least competition, so invest in the aeration and slice seeding. Slice seeders boast a 70% germination rate tho it is slow and labor intensive. These machines support Iggy's thoughts on seed soil contact. My recipe for success without herbides this time of year would look like this....1. rotary mower on scalp setting with bagger, mow as as you can go and catch it. 2. power rake to vertically slice all the crab, goose, and sedge, then collect all of those clippings. 3. at this point you should like like you are 80% dirt. Slice seed application 8-10 lbs/1000sq ft of a premium sportsturf blend available at your local irrigation store or national seed, heavy on the rye seed. 4. Starter fertilizer 12-24-14 a 50 lb bag typ covers 10-12000sq ft via rotary spreader. 5. top with straw, salt hay or penn mulch to discourage seed migration and hold down moisture. 6. irrigate.... if you dont keep soil damp during the germination period, you are spinning wheels. 2 waterings a day, just enough not to puddle. 7. When you are confident that you have achieved full germination, hit it again with a 20-0-6 straight fertilizer, 1st week of october would be ideal. Just dont fertilize during dormancy. 8. Mow with sharp blades set no lower than 3.5 inches. This method has been successful for me season after season. If you think about it, there are only 2-3 months out of the year that grass thrives on its own without intensive inputs, and those days are split between spring and fall. If you bang this out in the fall and are happy, you will have to keep the momentum going in the spring incorporating the broadleaf control and crabgrass pre along with 2 fertilizer apps. If there is a drought and you dont have irrigation in the summer, that is another challenge. At the end of the day, a nice lawn is the money pit next to your pool, so have a sense of humor bout it. lmk if I missed anything, good luck
 
I definitely agree with you that Fall is the best time to "feed" the grass. However, I am doing it differently this year (I was not happy with the 4-step program). I am approaching it sorta of a hybrid way: 1/2 organic fertilizer & 1/2 synthetics (pre-M's and herbicides for weeds). Organic fertilizers feeds the soils microheard and in turn makes the soil better. Plus it is safe for kids & pets. Better soil, better chance for grass to grow. Healthy thick grass blocks weeds. That is my main focus this Fall. I am getting my soil tested and apply what's needed to get it to its optimal state. I'll be applying organic fertilizer every 2 weeks (or until my wallets decides enough is enough, LOL). You are definitely right... lawn is another money pit. I do not want the best lawn in the neighborhood, but I do want a lawn that is nice to look at and will be low maintenance. Hopefully, working on the soil first pays off. Again, I'm new to this.. so.. we'll see where it goes.
 
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At the end of the day, a nice lawn is the money pit next to your pool, so have a sense of humor bout it.

Literally true at my house!! Photo from last October.
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Parts of my lawn got annihilated this summer by fungus during the ridiculous rains we had this June. Killed off some sections REAL QUICK. It's always something....

The window is now opening up for repair work. Time to get at it.

Ive been reading some real interesting stuff about spring feeding, and how high N feeding in spring actually hurts the grass by promoting top growth and taking away from root development. So much info out there.

Bill, I'd do a 50lb/1000 sf lime application now, and then aerate and seed with starter fert. a couple weeks later. Ive had great luck with Johnathan Green brand seeds. Do you have a John Deere store near you? They sell Lesco brand fert. Good stuff, if they'll sell to you directly. They can be helpful there, depends on the location. This is the golf course goods.....
 
When i seed I was going to hit up the Belle Mead Coop and grab some of their blends specific to the area. They also have a starter fertilizer with the closest n-p-k ratio to the soil test recommendations i've found. I'm still thinking this year i'm going to focus on getting the soil healthier instead of rushing to do everything at once. Next year i'll focus on weed killing and i'll rent a slice seeder and do it right. By then the soil should be healthier and i'll have more time (and money hopefully) to do it right and not stress. I have enough projects to worry about.
 
Remember that seeding in the spring, and controlling crabgrass doesn't work together.

The crabgrass treatment in the spring is a pre-emergent treatment that doesnt allow seeds to germinate, including grass. If you do some prep, and seed now, you avoid this conflict. Food for thought. Seed grows sooooo much better in the fall when the sun isn't as strong, no competition from weed seeds, and the soil is the right temp.
 
Yeah, i wasn't going to seed until next fall. My plan is:
Apply pelletized lime and some starter fertilizer this fall to bring up the ph and phosphorus levels in the soil. Another lime application in March and maybe a pre-emergent herbicide to keep the weeds at bay( i do have some grass but its sporadic). Then come August have my soil PH tested again, Rutgers said they do it free if you bring it in. If i still need some lime i'll do another application and hit it with herbicides to get all the different weeds knocked down as well as put down some fertilizer then septemberish i'll rent the slice seeder and put down some seeds. Hopefully by summer 2015 i'll have a half decent lawn. I'll just cut the weeds for another year or two...
 
You are making too much of this. Get some seed in the ground this fall, give yourself a base to start with, otherwise you have a full year or no or crappy grass. I've done nothing but the Scott's stuff in the spring and seeding as needing in the fall and it gets the job done.
 
You are making too much of this. Get some seed in the ground this fall, give yourself a base to start with, otherwise you have a full year or no or crappy grass. I've done nothing but the Scott's stuff in the spring and seeding as needing in the fall and it gets the job done.

Must admit, when I saw your's was the newest post I was expecting "this is gay, go ride a bike"
 
Must admit, when I saw your's was the newest post I was expecting "this is gay, go ride a bike"

Haha, of my immediate neighbors I am the only one who gives to chits about my lawn, but that ain't saying much. I like a nice lawn but have found over the last 10 years that doing much more than the basics doesn't net much gain.
 
Remember that seeding in the spring, and controlling crabgrass doesn't work together.

The crabgrass treatment in the spring is a pre-emergent treatment that doesnt allow seeds to germinate, including grass. If you do some prep, and seed now, you avoid this conflict. Food for thought. Seed grows sooooo much better in the fall when the sun isn't as strong, no competition from weed seeds, and the soil is the right temp.

Tenacity will let you spring seed and control crabgrass. 😉 Stuff is not cheap however. An 8oz bottle was like $60 from the JDL. But it allows you to seed/overseed while acting as a pre-emergent during spring/fall time.
 
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My back yard is about 70/30 grass and weeds, so based on what I'm seeing here I should seed this fall then try to cut the weeds next spring?

What's the best approach to kill the weeds that doesn't involve spraying nasty chemicals all over the lawn?
 
You are making too much of this. Get some seed in the ground this fall, give yourself a base to start with, otherwise you have a full year or no or crappy grass. I've done nothing but the Scott's stuff in the spring and seeding as needing in the fall and it gets the job done.

I use Scott's. It works relatively well for me. I prefer the spray version in the spring/summer months.....better control to lay it down a bit thicker in the trouble spots.

I find it amusing that I can be up at the crack of dawn even on super cold days to do TM but will do almost anything to get out of doing the lawn. My has been calling it lawn TM for a couple years now.
 
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Here's some lawn TM I did last year. I bought the tree for Mother's Day......the whole project with the wall took 4 days. Better than paying a landscaper thousands for a project like this.
 
So I got tired of looking at the weeds in my back yard and after few trusted folks told me to just go ahead and seed this year I decided to give it a shot. The last weekend in August I picked up about 800lbs of pelletized lime from lowes and spread it out as per the Rutgers soil test recommendations. I sat on that for a bit then around mid Sept. I had the brilliant idea to dethatch the yard since it probably hadn't been done since the house was built in the 50's. I thought how bad could it be(hint: look at the title), I'd be outside and get a good work out... I picked up this contraption at lowes and got to work.
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Wow, sorry for the huge picture

Lisa had the great idea to cut the lawn on the lowest setting possible and bag everything to make the work a bit easier. I worked in about 4-5' rows across the yard, it only took about a week and half to two weeks of raking whenever i had some spare time to finish the lawn. Wherever we had dense areas of creeping charlie and weeds are now bare soil, which is most of the back half of the yard. This cleared out a lot of plant matter. I can pretty clearly see soil just about everywhere now, even in areas that have decent grass growth.

We had our friends from Green Mountain Tree Service stop by Friday to take care of some limbs hanging over our property line. Larry and BJ did a great job and Larry gave me a few pointers about maintaining our trees. Thanks guys!

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I picked up some starter fertilizer and we broadcast that down saturday morning then I rented a power seeder and seeded the yard in the afternoon. Its more of a tiller w/ a seed dropper in the front really. I seeded vertically then at a 45* angle to keep from having funky patterns. I didn't think to look in the hopper until i was finished and 90% of the seed was still in there. A quick inspection of bottom of the hopper showed most of the holes had the fertilizer and water absorbing dust from the seeds gunking them up so next to nothing came out. After cleaning them out i went over the yard again, in a opposite pattern, and this time the seeds got into the dirt.

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We finished late in the day so i gave the seeds one watering on Saturday and another Sunday morning. I've got a decent sized yard so i had to water in sections to get a good even soak. Each section got 15 minutes of water. It was pretty damp all Sunday and the ground never really dried up. Plus I was hoping it would rain, I probably could have watered it again...

I know the dethatching left all the weed roots and they'll probably grow back in the spring. I'm hoping the exposed soil allows the grass a chance to establish itself before winter so i can hit it with pre-emergent chemicals come march/april. I also should have waited to put down the lime until after dethatching. It sat on the yard for a good 2-3 weeks so hopefully most of it got absorbed. I'll do another application in the spring as well. In a few weeks once I see some grass growing i'll hit it with some 1-1-1 fertilizer per the soil test results and hope it survives the winter.

We're also dedicating a section of the yard to a garden. This is mainly the wifes project but i'm helping out where i can. She marked off the perimeter of the garden and we skimmed off all the grass. We tried using a tarp but it let too much light in and the grass/weeds weren't dying after two weeks of being covered. We did'nt want to use chemicals on this area so we did it the hard way. Once we got the grass removed we spread out some powdered lime and covered the area w/ newspaper, mulched leaves and whatever soil we could find laying around. Then Lisa watered the whole thing to help the lime soak in and hold down the newspapers. Eventually we'll put a tarp over it and add more leaves as they fall.

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Nice job. The key with seeding is seed to soil contact, then water the be-jesus out of it.
No one has a perfect lawn after one overseeding, it takes several years to get the results you want. You are heading in the right direction. Based on results you may want to overseed again next september. Using pre-emerge for crabgrass in the spring followed up with an herbicide for broadleaf weeds in mid may will help you keep weeds out. Fertilize in the fall and consider aerating as well to maintain a healty root system.
 
omg dude, you dethached by hand? you need a tractor! haha. I did my lawn in like 1/2 hour! Nice work, I bet it was one hell of a caveman workout.
 
Nice job. The key with seeding is seed to soil contact, then water the be-jesus out of it.
No one has a perfect lawn after one overseeding, it takes several years to get the results you want. You are heading in the right direction. Based on results you may want to overseed again next september. Using pre-emerge for crabgrass in the spring followed up with an herbicide for broadleaf weeds in mid may will help you keep weeds out. Fertilize in the fall and consider aerating as well to maintain a healty root system.

Iggy can you come back in this thread on the day we are supposed to do this stuff and remind us all to do it? Because I'll never remember.

Would also like a reminder when I'm supposed to start growing my garden seedlings in the house, because I started that way late this year too.
 
I didn't realize the power thatchers could fit in the back of a Subaru. I figured they were bigger so I just did it by hand. It sucked but it wasn't that bad. If I had to do it again I'd rent a power thatcher or buy a tractor attachment. We have an older lawn tractor, next season I want to pick up a core aerator for it. Not in the budget this year.


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