I fashion my crown from Quetzlcoatl’s quills
- Thread starter gtluke
- Start date
Because zombies?
gtluke
The Moped
gtluke
The Moped
bathroom update!
new vanity has a centered sink, had to move the drain over about a foot. surprisingly got the 1.5" brass T to spin without burning the house down. REALLY don't like using a rubber connector for this, but really there is no choice here. It's sooo tight. I'd use copper if I could find a 1.5" 22.5* bend. But I don't think it exists. I actually had to bend the PVC using a torch and heating it up in a few spots because it's so damn tight in there. Using 1.25" PVC it BARELY fits. Luckily it's so tight that it'll never move. Also had to move the hot and cold valves. What's cool is that since the sink is the only thing on the under floor copper, is I just moved the hot from the left to the right and now it's centered, and I just have to swap my pex to copper connection in the basement from hot to cold and back and it'll be correct again.
Cement board going up around the tub.
Installed some 3/4" plywood between, not behind the 2x6 walls. I can't go behind it because half of the plywood is covering the floor framing of the other side of the house and it wouldn't fit. I have to put plywood in there for the back of the shower niche's i'm going to build. I don't want to use off the shelf niche's this time because I uniquely have this 2x6 interior framing. So I can make the niche much deeper. One niche on the left, one on the right. Actual size will be determined once I get the tile in hand.
see
Shower valves installed and tested. not leaking! woot!
new vanity has a centered sink, had to move the drain over about a foot. surprisingly got the 1.5" brass T to spin without burning the house down. REALLY don't like using a rubber connector for this, but really there is no choice here. It's sooo tight. I'd use copper if I could find a 1.5" 22.5* bend. But I don't think it exists. I actually had to bend the PVC using a torch and heating it up in a few spots because it's so damn tight in there. Using 1.25" PVC it BARELY fits. Luckily it's so tight that it'll never move. Also had to move the hot and cold valves. What's cool is that since the sink is the only thing on the under floor copper, is I just moved the hot from the left to the right and now it's centered, and I just have to swap my pex to copper connection in the basement from hot to cold and back and it'll be correct again.
Cement board going up around the tub.
Installed some 3/4" plywood between, not behind the 2x6 walls. I can't go behind it because half of the plywood is covering the floor framing of the other side of the house and it wouldn't fit. I have to put plywood in there for the back of the shower niche's i'm going to build. I don't want to use off the shelf niche's this time because I uniquely have this 2x6 interior framing. So I can make the niche much deeper. One niche on the left, one on the right. Actual size will be determined once I get the tile in hand.
see
Shower valves installed and tested. not leaking! woot!
gtluke
The Moped
Have a decent size stand-up shower downstairs. Need a tub to wash babies and have a bubble bath.
gtluke
The Moped
2018
impressive maneuver -
that turn in the drain arm calls for a long radius 90, but should be ok, since it is a sink...
anything that isn't buried in the ground needs a shielded coupler.
they make them material specific - so 1.25cu to 1.25pvc (they make 22.5 and 30 deg pvc short bends too)
alternately, sweat a female cu threaded on, and use male pvc.
scavenge more pvc from somewhere, and rip out the copper for $$$. !!! more bike bits.
(ie, tie vents together in wall, sell copper, make less holes in roof)
for bending connections, use heavy duty tigerflex. can internet in short lengths. PVC shell welds to std fittings
see if a J hanger will attach the stub-out to the stud, otherwise a piece of wood coming up under it to maintain slope.
maybe some rigid insulation up in the corner of the tub, against the outside wall (above rafter?? is is outside?)
coming along nicely, niche envy.
that turn in the drain arm calls for a long radius 90, but should be ok, since it is a sink...
anything that isn't buried in the ground needs a shielded coupler.
they make them material specific - so 1.25cu to 1.25pvc (they make 22.5 and 30 deg pvc short bends too)
alternately, sweat a female cu threaded on, and use male pvc.
scavenge more pvc from somewhere, and rip out the copper for $$$. !!! more bike bits.
(ie, tie vents together in wall, sell copper, make less holes in roof)
for bending connections, use heavy duty tigerflex. can internet in short lengths. PVC shell welds to std fittings
see if a J hanger will attach the stub-out to the stud, otherwise a piece of wood coming up under it to maintain slope.
maybe some rigid insulation up in the corner of the tub, against the outside wall (above rafter?? is is outside?)
coming along nicely, niche envy.
You can infinitely customize pvc with a heat gun and not have that burnt marshmallow look............
ktmrider
Well-Known Member
Nice pick up on the 90 Pat , its a vent 90impressive maneuver -
that turn in the drain arm calls for a long radius 90, but should be ok, since it is a sink...
anything that isn't buried in the ground needs a shielded coupler.
they make them material specific - so 1.25cu to 1.25pvc (they make 22.5 and 30 deg pvc short bends too)
alternately, sweat a female cu threaded on, and use male pvc.
scavenge more pvc from somewhere, and rip out the copper for $$$. !!! more bike bits.
(ie, tie vents together in wall, sell copper, make less holes in roof)
for bending connections, use heavy duty tigerflex. can internet in short lengths. PVC shell welds to std fittings
see if a J hanger will attach the stub-out to the stud, otherwise a piece of wood coming up under it to maintain slope.
maybe some rigid insulation up in the corner of the tub, against the outside wall (above rafter?? is is outside?)
coming along nicely, niche envy.
gtluke
The Moped
Celebrating the first outdoor seating at chipotle day with a bike ride. (at Stewart State Forest)
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