Hitch-Bike Rack Suggestions for Toyota Highlander

Any reason to get a particular size? On the website, it looks like 1-1/4 or 2" . I have to get the hitch installed, just wondering if there is any benefit to either one?
I got the 1-1/4" version which comes with a 2" adapter. If you know you'll never carry more than 2 bikes then that's all you need. I carried 2 bikes on it up to Canada and down to Florida with no issues at all. I'm not saying it won't be safe carrying more than 2 (3 bikes is a max per 1UP's recommendation for 1-1/4"), I'm just saying I haven't had any issues with carrying 2 bikes, 1 being an ebike. My car has a 1-1/4" receiver and my RAV4 has a 2" receiver.
 
Same here.l. I just had a guy roll up to the shop with a bike hanging on by a thread on a one up. He had a slow leak in hit front tire. Basically over the hr drive to come see me, his tire went flat. Let’s just say that if he had lost any more air in that tire, he would have also lost that bike.
I totally understand this and I was made aware of this possibility very early on of my 1UP ownership. I was riding and at the end of my ride I got a flat by the time I got to the car. Without a filled tire the bike will be loose on the rack. Luckly there was a bike shop nearby so I drove over there to get a tube for my fat bike. Immediately after that I started thinking about solutions for this if it ever happened again. If you use the 1UP USA wheel lock that goes through the wheel between spokes then the wheel will never separate from the arm of the rack far enough to come out. It will be loose but won't come out so you won't lose the bike. If you know you're putting the bike on the rack with a flat you can cinch up the arm further along so it clears more the wheel. If the bike goes flat while you're driving the lock I mentioned will keep it from falling out. By keep a couple of rags in the vehicle as I do you can drape over the top of each wheel with a rag where it meets the arm and that will reduce if not eliminate the movement. The arm against the wheel with the rag in between will keep it in place and won't blow away. Of course now with all this prep I haven't had to transport a bike with a flat since. Now that I said that, I'll get a flat today. LOL.
 
The only hitch available for my car is a 1-1/4”, sure not gonna tow anything with a Mustang but it’s great for the rack. I grabbed two of the wheel locks when I bought it, they’ll key them all the same as the hitch lock for you. Even still, I keep an eye on any bikes I’m carrying no matter where they are or which rack. Weight is a factor for me too, I avoid lifting stuff over 40lbs.
 
Any reason to get a particular size? On the website, it looks like 1-1/4 or 2" . I have to get the hitch installed, just wondering if there is any benefit to either one?
One other big reason to get the 2" is it has a lock through the hitch/rack. The 1-1/4" does not have this and to me is a poor design. It relies purely on the tension and that security bolt on the front that tightens it in. Well that and a piece of velcro if that fails.

@jdog What your describing is exactly why I got rid of my aging Kuat and went with a 1-UP. I legit couldn't deal with @MissJR freaking out looking out the back window to see if the bikes were there. Too many times I had a bike wobble off the Kuat and only held in by the rear strap because of an air leak in the front tire or just enough movement for the wheel to pop out, mostly on gravel roads. Over time the arms would have play in them and loosen. The worst was the early style Lefty where I couldn't get lots of tension on the tire because the fork leg was slightly forward. If I'm traveling for any real distance with my 1-UP I use a velcro strap on each wheel to provide extra security.

If anyone buys a 1up, BUY THE LOCKS WHEN YOU BUY THE RACK. They don't sell the locks keyed to whatever locks you have existing. If you buy them with the rack the accessory locks will match the hitch lock. Plus they'll ship free with the rack.

Also, if someone is looking at taking the rack on/off often, look at weight! Some of the steel racks are crazy heavy. Others like the Kuat/1-Up are pretty manageable.
 
i currently have an old saris rack that's similar to the one posted for sale... one thing i really like about it is it clamps down on both tires and has straps for both wheels. there needs to be multiple points of failure for the bike to actually fall off.

i almost lost my bike on 287 with Steve's old Kuat because the wheel just wobbled enough to come lose... F-- that Shite. I will never recommend a bike rack like that.

and even if i buy a one up, i'm buying additional straps and the locks for it.
 
As mentioned, if you decide to get the 1UP rack (single) and an add-on you should get the locks also. I would recommend at least 2 wheel locks and a lock for the add-on which locks it to the main rack. This way all locks will be keyed the same. I have more hacks and suggestions if you get it.
 
One other thing to consider about the hitch itself is where you get it from. A hitch from Toyota will certainly be more expensive, but it will probably integrate with the vehicle much better. A lot of aftermarket ones are mounted lower than the OEM units, so you'll lose ground clearance in the back. Also, with modern unibody vehicles, the OEM hitches integrate better with the body rails. I know this is 100% true for my Subaru, only the OEM hitch integrates into the body rails, all the aftermarket ones bolt on below and have caused serious problems with the unibodies

I recommend taking some time to search Highlander specific forums to see what the hitch recommendations are.

Seems pretty split here:
 
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The 1-1/4" will come with an adapter to 2" and limited to a total of 3 bike trays. So the single and 2 add-on trays. This is what I have. Gives me the option to use it on the Honda CRV with 1-1/4" or the truck/van with 2".
This is the same setup I have. There were no 2" receiver hitches available for my car (a new generation model of my car at the time), so I was forced to install a 1-1/4". I typically only need the single tray when using my car anyway. I use the 2" adapter when attaching to my wife's Forester when we travel together and use the 2nd tray.
 
Same here.l. I just had a guy roll up to the shop with a bike hanging on by a thread on a one up. He had a slow leak in hit front tire. Basically over the hr drive to come see me, his tire went flat. Let’s just say that if he had lost any more air in that tire, he would have also lost that bike.
For this reason, on longer drives I'll wrap Voile straps to cinch the tires to the top tire spools to minimize the amount of bike flop should the tires lose air.
 
hmmm all the discussion here about the 1Up and possible flat tire makes me even think about my Thule rack.

Maybe adding something additional for the front tire as extra insurance since if the front tire lost air, the bike would only be secure by the ratchet device as part of the rear wheel holder.

Then again I am usually too lazy to break out the bike rack and end up just putting the bike inside the SUV regardless of road, Gravel or MTB.
 
hmmm all the discussion here about the 1Up and possible flat tire makes me even think about my Thule rack.

Maybe adding something additional for the front tire as extra insurance since if the front tire lost air, the bike would only be secure by the ratchet device as part of the rear wheel holder.

Then again I am usually too lazy to break out the bike rack and end up just putting the bike inside the SUV regardless of road, Gravel or MTB.
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These also come to mind, I have a few and they are pretty handy. 32 seems a bit long, they come in different lengths

 
These also come to mind, I have a few and they are pretty handy. 32 seems a bit long, they come in different lengths

Tractor Supply near my work has several lengths of these in stock to chose from.
 
I love the Kuat racks I have. Great looking and so easy to use. They have very reasonable pricing on replacement parts also. The two that I have were bought used from folks on here and live on my cars all year round with no issues.
 
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