Going Long and Hard.

@woody really is

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Well there ya go. Instead of running 2 awesome brakes that will more than likely fail, I'm going to one shitty brake that barely works from the start. The only good side to this is that my bike is a pound lighter. And I've decreased my drag by 50%
 
Well there ya go. Instead of running 2 awesome brakes that will more than likely fail, I'm going to one shitty brake that barely works from the start. The only good side to this is that my bike is a pound lighter. And I've decreased my drag by 50%

It's counter intuitive, but JP doesn't run a front brake for the ITI Sooo. It's gotta be the way to go. Just don't get any crazy ideas about hucking off stuff till you put real brakes back on..... Hmmm Kay?
 
Most guys don't run a front brake. Some because they run a generator hub and the brake doesn't fit. Most because the brake just doesn't matter in snow, you stop pedaling, you stop moving, there's no coasting in these things.

I am slightly worried about getting used to it though. I use the front brake more than my rear. Might swap the lever to the other side.
 
Most guys don't run a front brake. Some because they run a generator hub and the brake doesn't fit. Most because the brake just doesn't matter in snow, you stop pedaling, you stop moving, there's no coasting in these things.

I am slightly worried about getting used to it though. I use the front brake more than my rear. Might swap the lever to the other side.

brake goes on the right.
I was on to something with this coaster brake thing. you should do it.
 
I rode Saturday and Sunday with only a front brake and was fine. We're only talking the weight of hose so there's really no difference between a front a rear.
 
After a hefty conversation with my Sram buddies, we decided it would be best to run a mechanical over a hydro. My rear brake failure was 100% caused by the seals shrinking from the cold. With windchill on Sandy Hook Saturday where my brake went out, the temps were probably -20/-30, well below operating temp for hydros. Sram already sent me a brakeset for the ITI that I was supposed to be riding this whole time but the Guides are so god damn nice I've been holding off.

I mean in alaska, ok ill buy that it could get that cold...Not in NJ this past weekend to cause o-rings to reach minimum temps. Since srams use DOT 5.1, I would imagine they are using either nitrile, viton, or silicone o-rings....all of which are rated to -20, -35 and -60 F.....only humans feel wind chills.... Ask your sram friends if they would like to revise their bullshit story 😉

My bikes sit in an unheated garage and always have....never had a hydro brake failure due to cold weather.

Woody don't upgrade shit unless it's really broken, and it's raining.
1000% Woody is still using those tires that had a branch go through them...just because they still work I guess.
 
I mean in alaska, ok ill buy that it could get that cold...Not in NJ this past weekend to cause o-rings to reach minimum temps. Since srams use DOT 5.1, I would imagine they are using either nitrile, viton, or silicone o-rings....all of which are rated to -20, -35 and -60 F.....only humans feel wind chills.... Ask your sram friends if they would like to revise their bullshit story 😉

My bikes sit in an unheated garage and always have....never had a hydro brake failure due to cold weather.


1000% Woody is still using those tires that had a branch go through them...just because they still work I guess.

Yeah but.
Viton, 30f

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I got 2 stories from Sram. One was the Company line of 0-100 degrees temperature range for all of their products. After probing him more I got to a guy inside who's their winter racer guy and got a few tricks to make the brake hold. But, that dude runs a BB7 because he's had his brake fail. Cold related or not he stressed the ability to service in the field because it's a long walk to Finger Lake and there are no roads for someone to get you. I ran the Guides at Tuscobia and JayP and had no issues, nor have I ever had any issues. When I started riding for Sram they sent me those BB7SLs specifically for the ITI.
 
I got 2 stories from Sram. One was the Company line of 0-100 degrees temperature range for all of their products. After probing him more I got to a guy inside who's their winter racer guy and got a few tricks to make the brake hold. But, that dude runs a BB7 because he's had his brake fail. Cold related or not he stressed the ability to service in the field because it's a long walk to Finger Lake and there are no roads for someone to get you. I ran the Guides at Tuscobia and JayP and had no issues, nor have I ever had any issues. When I started riding for Sram they sent me those BB7SLs specifically for the ITI.

Agreed I dont imagine you are going to be needed ridiculous amount of braking power? Why even take a chance....I just used to get the wind chill thing often when designing PRV's for use on oil platforms in the North Sea....They would ask me to spec an o-ring for a valve seeing a windchill of -100 🙂

Yeah but.
poorly designed o-ring joint, 30f

Fixed that for you
 
Agreed I dont imagine you are going to be needed ridiculous amount of braking power? Why even take a chance....I just used to get the wind chill thing often when designing PRV's for use on oil platforms in the North Sea....They would ask me to spec an o-ring for a valve seeing a windchill of -100 🙂



Fixed that for you
I bet NASA specs a better oring than sram. They probably use the same assortment box from harbor freight that I do.
 
im willing to bet sram gave you the bb7s because either they know the guides cant hack it in low temps, or they legit dont know/didnt test it enough
 
Agreed I dont imagine you are going to be needed ridiculous amount of braking power? Why even take a chance....I just used to get the wind chill thing often when designing PRV's for use on oil platforms in the North Sea....They would ask me to spec an o-ring for a valve seeing a windchill of -100 🙂



Fixed that for you

i ignored this part of diffeq, and i'm a scientist - and this is engineering, so...

does the wind cause a significant difference in the rate of change? where an outside component may cool so quickly that
internal stress, or differences across boundaries (ie piston/cylinder wall) would be a problem? i guess that is not relevant if the parts
are already stabilized at -40 and the wind blows on them...

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I'm full-in on the mechanical brake - @jimvreeland - looks like internal routing? anything special at the ends to prevent water contamination?
 
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