Fork Rebuild Question

[onetracker]

In 2018, I had a Fox F29 rebuilt with a new steerer by Fox. I thought I was going to use the fork right away but turned out that the fork was an extra. It has been stored dropouts facing the floor in a box ever since. Now I would like to use the fork for the 2021 season. I would like your opinion: does the fork need to be rebuilt before riding it once it gets warmer or should I use it even though the rebuild was performed several years ago? @jimvreeland @jdog anyone else?

 

[Karate Monkey]

Flip it over on the steerer and key the oil run to the seals over night.

Flip it over and dyno it on the floor (don't lean it on the rebound adjuster, so at a slight angle). If it doesn't stick after the initial breakaway, you're fine.

 

[stb222]

If you want to be safe, you can just change the bath oil. It takes like 20 min. But really, nothing would happen to the oil unless it was in an attic or something.

 

[Dingo]

Flip it over on the steerer and key the oil run to the seals over night.

Flip it over and dyno it on the floor (don't lean it on the rebound adjuster, so at a slight angle). If it doesn't stick after the initial breakaway, you're fine.

I am curious why do they have that initial sticksion? does not seem to effect it one bit. New seals and fluid make no difference

 

[onetracker]

If you want to be safe, you can just change the bath oil. It takes like 20 min. But really, nothing would happen to the oil unless it was in an attic or something.

Stored in my basement where the furnace is located. No extreme hot or cold but it is the warmest room in the house.

 

[Karate Monkey]

I am curious why do they have that initial sticksion? does not seem to effect it one bit. New seals and fluid make no difference

Bushings in the fork leg, stanchion seals, damper seals, and spring seals. They're all holding on to their respective parts to seal, and initial friction must be surpassed before they start moving. Bushings might not be 100% round/clearance might be tight, so that is more friction to overcome. Unlubricated stanchions (like if it has been resting on the axle for a couple of years) are going to have more trouble passing through the bushings.

 

[onetracker]

Bushings in the fork leg, stanchion seals, damper seals, and spring seals. They're all holding on to their respective parts to seal, and initial friction must be surpassed before they start moving. Bushings might not be 100% round/clearance might be tight, so that is more friction to overcome. Unlubricated stanchions (like if it has been resting on the axle for a couple of years) are going to have more trouble passing through the bushings.

So I it were your fork, would you follow your recommendations above or do a rebuild?

 

[sundaydoug]

So I it were your fork, would you follow your recommendations above or do a rebuild?

If Fox did a full rebuild when they did the work in 2018 it should be fine. There are plenty of freshly built brand new suspension products that sit on shelves in warehouses or bolted to a bike in a box for a year or two before they get used. Like Karate Monkey said, I'd flip it upside down to get the oil up near the seals for lubrication, then flip it right-side-up and cycle it a few times. See how it feels.

 

[Karate Monkey]

If Fox did a full rebuild when they did the work in 2018 it should be fine. There are plenty of freshly built brand new suspension products that sit on shelves in warehouses or bolted to a bike in a box for a year or two before they get used. Like Karate Monkey said, I'd flip it upside down to get the oil up near the seals for lubrication, then flip it right-side-up and cycle it a few times. See how it feels.

Yeah, what he said.

 

[xc62701]

So I it were your fork, would you follow your recommendations above or do a rebuild?

If it were mine I'd be riding it right now and not give it a second thought. If an issue arises, address it then.

 

[JonF]

I am curious why do they have that initial sticksion? does not seem to effect it one bit. New seals and fluid make no difference

I was listening to an interview with the founder of Push Industries and he offered a tip regarding easing fork stiction. Most air forks have very little oil in the legs and so its easy for the oil to migrate down and away from the various moving bits. If your bike has been sitting a bit (And stored upright), turn it upside down (or rotate up on the rear wheel) enough to get the fork inverted for about 30-45 secs. The oil will flow back up and lube the various parts and stiction will be greatly reduced for that initial part of the ride/lap.