Chain Wax Discussion thread

I just re-waxed mine last night because it was starting to squeak ever so slightly. I used boiling water followed by isopropyl and compressed air to clean. Noticed that the wax was starting to get reasonably dark so I replaced it with some fresh wax. Not sure what the interval on new wax is supposed to be but it seemed better to err on the side of replacing too soon.
 
I just re-waxed mine last night because it was starting to squeak ever so slightly. I used boiling water followed by isopropyl and compressed air to clean. Noticed that the wax was starting to get reasonably dark so I replaced it with some fresh wax. Not sure what the interval on new wax is supposed to be but it seemed better to err on the side of replacing too soon.
I find that wiping with microfiber cloth after treatment with boiling water is enough to get a clean chain. If you then have melted wax ready to go there is no need to use compressed air because any remaining moisture will separate from the chain once dipped in the wax.

I'm also seeing wax accumulation on the cassette. I'd love to treat the cassette with boiling water too, but then I'd need compressed air to dry that out. Wondering if wife's hairdryer might do the trick....
 
I'll give it a try at some point but these 200-300 mile interval things is scaring me. This coming from someone who doesn't do anything until he hears things grinding.
 
I'll give it a try at some point but these 200-300 mile interval things is scaring me. This coming from someone who doesn't do anything until he hears things grinding.
It’s definitely not for everyone
 
I'll give it a try at some point but these 200-300 mile interval things is scaring me. This coming from someone who doesn't do anything until he hears things grinding.
One consideration for you is longer rides on your trips. There is no lube-on-the-fly so if you find yourself with a dry chain in the middle of no where, you might just have to go dry.
 
I have my "gravel" bike pulled apart right now and I'm considering this pretty hard. The drivetrain was a total disaster from the dumonde I had been using, definitely not looking to go back to that. Even with T-9 my chains were always a total mess.

Just having a hard time wrapping my head around dropping $65 on chain lube! How many dips are you getting out of the bag of silca hot dip wax?
 
I have my "gravel" bike pulled apart right now and I'm considering this pretty hard. The drivetrain was a total disaster from the dumonde I had been using, definitely not looking to go back to that. Even with T-9 my chains were always a total mess.

Just having a hard time wrapping my head around dropping $65 on chain lube! How many dips are you getting out of the bag of silca hot dip wax?
2 years and counting on one bag sitting in a 1.5 L crock pot. Dont think I need to top up anytime soon. I wax all chains (including extras) 1-2X a year.
 
2 years and counting on one bag sitting in a 1.5 L crock pot. Dont think I need to top up anytime soon. I wax all chains (including extras) 1-2X a year.
As noted, you are only doing a few dips a year and I have already drip refreshed both chains. Just noting that a mileage or hours based consumption rate is needed.

Anyways @rlb its a long time, and after doing two chains, it amounts to such a small amount of wax used I would imagine it is many many many dips.
 
As noted, you are only doing a few dips a year and I have already drip refreshed both chains. Just noting that a mileage or hours based consumption rate is needed.

Anyways @rlb its a long time, and after doing two chains, it amounts to such a small amount of wax used I would imagine it is many many many dips.
I went through a bag of wax last season. 3 different bikes.
Damn, I must be under-waxing my chains. Im not using nearly that much.
 
Yup. Haven’t confirmed that it’s wrong.

read the instructions on silicas website



3. Allow all the air bubbles to escape the chain and swish the chain around the pot to get the last bit of air out.

4. Aim to pull the chain out of the wax via the bent spoke as close to its hardening point as possible. This keeps as much of the wax in the chain rather than dripping out as possible.

5. Hang the chain and allow it to cool
 
read the instructions on silicas website


Yup and this site doesn’t say let cool before. I get it, there are variable guides out there out there. And thanks for the info, more is better.
 
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i mean if yours using silicas product shouldnt their website be the one you follow? they know their product best (if your using some other product disregard this detail and check with your products website)


p.s. i dont use wax on my chains so this is my contribution.
 
I have my "gravel" bike pulled apart right now and I'm considering this pretty hard. The drivetrain was a total disaster from the dumonde I had been using, definitely not looking to go back to that. Even with T-9 my chains were always a total mess.
I'm going through mental gymnastics on this wax thing. I really do like T-9. It never seems to gum up or accumulate a lot of crap. It also lubes better than the dry-wax lube I used for 10-years prior. I like to let it sit after application and give it a clean rag wipe-down before use, but this is still less work overall.
 
read the instructions on silicas website


Everything I read same the same. I let my wax overcool, so I had too much residual wax clinging to the exterior of the chain as I pulled it out. It all worked itself out in the end, but it was a little wasteful and I had to clean out the cogs. So, lesson learned for me (and hopefully you) but very very happy with the performance. I wasn't going to do the SS, which is my only trail bike, but I'm just gonna grab an extra chain and go for it.
 
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