Car cover recommendations

icebiker

icebiker

JORBA: Morris Trails
JORBA.ORG
We downsized earlier this year so I lost a garage space in the process. With winter approaching I have the option to keep my non DD at my in-laws parking garage. Looking for a good indoor cover that has decent padding to guard against door dings. Have done research and found a few but pretty $$$. Curious if any of you have had experience with these or others you might recommend.

Coverking Moving Blanket Car Covers

Coverking Car Cover With Padding From CarCoverUSA
www.carcoverusa.com

Indoor Car Covers

To properly store and protect your car inside, order a custom cover. Shop Covercraft's indoor car storage covers here.
www.covercraft.com www.covercraft.com
 
icebiker said:
We downsized earlier this year so I lost a garage space in the process. With winter approaching I have the option to keep my non DD at my in-laws parking garage. Looking for a good indoor cover that has decent padding to guard against door dings. Have done research and found a few but pretty $$$. Curious if any of you have had experience with these or others you might recommend.

Coverking Moving Blanket Car Covers

Coverking Car Cover With Padding From CarCoverUSA
www.carcoverusa.com

Indoor Car Covers

To properly store and protect your car inside, order a custom cover. Shop Covercraft's indoor car storage covers here.
www.covercraft.com www.covercraft.com
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If it's in the garage does it need to be fully padded and on both sides? How about throwing a moving blanket folded 2-3 times under a regular cover on the side with might come into contact with a door. You can also add a layer of bubble wrap as cushion. Besides those in your link just looks like stitched up moving blankets and would do nothing to stop a door opening on it.
 
get on of those bubbles lol

can you scope out an end spot? or live up to the beemer stereotype and take up two spots? haha

For general purposes, I find an OEM one on marketplace. I like them the best.
 
qclabrat said:
If it's in the garage does it need to be fully padded and on both sides? How about throwing a moving blanket folded 2-3 times under a regular cover on the side with might come into contact with a door. You can also add a layer of bubble wrap as cushion. Besides those in your link just looks like stitched up moving blankets and would do nothing to stop a door opening on it.
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Yeah the problem is their building is mainly 70-80 year olds, and the spot available is assigned (no chance to get a corner spot). Some of the parking jobs I’ve seen in the garage are questionable to say the least. It does have a pillar on one side so that’ll help but I want to play it safe. The moving blanket idea under the cover is a good one. I have to figure out how to keep it in place. Also would have to be one of the softer ones so as not to affect the clear coat.
 
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I purchased one through pelican parts. Basically a couple moving blankets stitched together. Not sure where they sourced it.
 
icebiker said:
I decided to winterize it and park it at a friends place in PA. Enclosed garage, on its own, washed it, changed the oil, aired the tires up a bit and put it on a trickle charger. Will take it out in the spring when the roads are clear of salt.
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unless the car was due for is regularly scheduled oil change make sure to change the oil again when you take it out. the theory behind the oil change with storage is to get any contaminants(mostly moisture) out that accumulated while the car was sitting.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
unless the car was due for is regularly scheduled oil change make sure to change the oil again when you take it out. the theory behind the oil change with storage is to get any contaminants(mostly moisture) out that accumulated while the car was sitting.
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What about if the car is started once a monthly? Mine is also winterized but I pull it out in the winter to turn it over from time to time.
 
qclabrat said:
What about if the car is started once a monthly? Mine is also winterized but I pull it out in the winter to turn it over from time to time.
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Depends on how long it runs for and how hot it gets. If it gets hot and cooks out the moisture it's likely not an issue. This takes about 15 to 20 minutes at operating temperature(so at idle that's probably 45min+?) according to most sources. but idling for that long can introduce other issues like fouled spark plugs... It's better for the engine to just drive it instead of idling excessively

it does raise the question tho of why you spend the time winterizing if your just going to pull it out and run it? or why you are running it without driving it. if its the charge the battery spend the $50 on a tender and let it ride.
 
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Yep I plan to just wait until the spring and take it out for a long drive. Starting it and idling does t really get it hot enough to burn off the moisture.
 
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