Book of Paul H

So you need 2?

one for speed goes on your hub. one for cadence goes on the NDS crank arm. So yes,
the GPS speed/distance works fine on the road, you might want to look at your cadence -

i don't think cadence is as important in the woods, but the GPS sucks, esp with tight turns - so a distance/speed sensor is more important for accuracy.
 
one for speed goes on your hub. one for cadence goes on the NDS crank arm. So yes,
the GPS speed/distance works fine on the road, you might want to look at your cadence -

i don't think cadence is as important in the woods, but the GPS sucks, esp with tight turns - so a distance/speed sensor is more important for accuracy.
Ok... keep one on the rear hub on the MTB and keep another one on the crank arm of the roadie.... gotcha!
 
Bike stand attachment... when working on dropper. Too flexy... need to find something more rigid. Will work for now.
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one for speed goes on your hub. one for cadence goes on the NDS crank arm. So yes,
the GPS speed/distance works fine on the road, you might want to look at your cadence -

i don't think cadence is as important in the woods, but the GPS sucks, esp with tight turns - so a distance/speed sensor is more important for accuracy.
Yeah, but no one cares about real distance in the woods and really only makes a difference at 6 mile. I do agree that no one cares about cadence in the woods.

Speed sensor on the road so you can be accurate when bragging about dropping a 22. Also, rain affects gps accuracy, so speed sensor is nice on the rain bike so speed stays accurate. Drives me nuts when you riding along it it like 25, then 15, back to 25 and then 12.
 
Yeah, but no one cares about real distance in the woods and really only makes a difference at 6 mile. I do agree that no one cares about cadence in the woods.

Speed sensor on the road so you can be accurate when bragging about dropping a 22. Also, rain affects gps accuracy, so speed sensor is nice on the rain bike so speed stays accurate. Drives me nuts when you riding along it it like 25, then 15, back to 25 and then 12.

road rides are easily corrected post ride (i bet you have the tiger/lines data at work!).

you look at your computer while riding? why, being alerted that you are in a segment? :D
ok, it is christmas......no need for that...? ✌
 
road rides are easily corrected post ride (i bet you have the tiger/lines data at work!).

you look at your computer while riding? why, being alerted that you are in a segment? :D
ok, it is christmas......no need for that...? ✌
Who does correction to their rides? My strava distance is never different, but again, I use a sensor.

I don’t use the live segments. Yes, I look at my cadence and time.
 
Who does correction to their rides? My strava distance is never different, but again, I use a sensor.

I don’t use the live segments. Yes, I look at my cadence and time.

so if you don't do corrections because it is the same, then not having a sensor is easily corrected to accurate....

i look at my cadence on zwift :D

i'm just being a dick at this point - i ride with @shrpshtr325 quite a bit - and since he is an engineer and can't stand when numbers
are wrong, he has a speed/distance sensor for the woods. i'm usually 5-10% less than he is cause i don't have one. (i also have 5% more moving time....)

and since these are now sub $20 - may as well use them on everything.

PS - i'm getting that new bike itch - feeling the 5010 in the near future.....or a 429. gotta stick with b+ tho.
 
So what are we saying? Cadence and speed sensor on roadie and speed sensor only on mtb?
Screw this.... both sensors going on the trainer! :p
 
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