Ask an automobile mechanic.

Bike N Gear said:
BMW recommends a brake fluid flush at 30k miles. My neighbor who owns a repair shop said don't bother. What say you?
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Don't bother unless you're tracking the car...

Flush when you do a major repair on the brakes or when doing the pads/rotors.

Don't you have a shop? When you crack open a jar of DOT 4 to work on a customer's bike or your own, pull what you can out of the master cylinder with a syringe and fill it back up.
 
Santapez said:
Don't bother unless you're tracking the car...

Flush when you do a major repair on the brakes or when doing the pads/rotors.

Don't you have a shop? When you crack open a jar of DOT 4 to work on a customer's bike or your own, pull what you can out of the master cylinder with a syringe and fill it back up.
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After applying vacuum to the can to boil off any moisture contamination
 
Patrick said:
After applying vacuum to the can to boil off any moisture contamination
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I meant crack it open as a fresh can...

I actually do this as I hardly do DOT brakes on the bikes. So instead of putting away a half empty jar of fluid for a year ingesting moisture I'll empty the master cylinder on a car and use up the new fluid.

And now I'm wondering if the company that makes all the vacuum bleeding stuff for suspensions make a brake fluid vacuum machine...
 
Santapez said:
I meant crack it open as a fresh can...

I actually do this as I hardly do DOT brakes on the bikes. So instead of putting away a half empty jar of fluid for a year ingesting moisture I'll empty the master cylinder on a car and use up the new fluid.

And now I'm wondering if the company that makes all the vacuum bleeding stuff for suspensions make a brake fluid vacuum machine...
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i mean any can that holds a vacuum and has a port to hook up to should work fine for storage, but that may not be worth the cost. and the moisture absorbtion is such a minor issue for bikes (maybe an issue for dh guys, but trail riding doesnt generate that much heat)
 
shrpshtr325 said:
i mean any can that holds a vacuum and has a port to hook up to should work fine for storage, but that may not be worth the cost. and the moisture absorbtion is such a minor issue for bikes (maybe an issue for dh guys, but trail riding doesnt generate that much heat)
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Well, I grabbed a can with fittings/valves awhile back from work for pulling a vacuum on brake fluid.

Was just wondering if there's an actual setup for professional use. Not that I'm buying one. But if you're working on some cup car or something it makes sense to do.
 
Santapez said:
Well, I grabbed a can with fittings/valves awhile back from work for pulling a vacuum on brake fluid.

Was just wondering if there's an actual setup for professional use. Not that I'm buying one. But if you're working on some cup car or something it makes sense to do.
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i mean in all honesty we are nit picking here, if it was a big deal then brake fluid reservoirs on your car would have a vacuum hook up to keep air/moisture out or a bladder so that the fluid is not in contact with the air.
 
shrpshtr325 said:
i mean in all honesty we are nit picking here, if it was a big deal then brake fluid reservoirs on your car would have a vacuum hook up to keep air/moisture out or a bladder so that the fluid is not in contact with the air.
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they used to be sealed systems - wtf happened?
 
Patrick said:
they used to be sealed systems - wtf happened?
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brake fluid evolved/improved to the point that the moisture is not the issue it used to be? (i dont remember the systems being sealed but then im not as old as you so . . . )

honestly unless you have a vacuum pump to evacuate the air or a bladder in which one side is ONLY brake fluid and no air, its moot and moisture will get in there. If you notice a decrease in stopping performance then change it, if you open the system, change it. The fluid in the lines is going to be dryer than the fluid in the reservoir just based on the physics of the hydraulic system, it doesn't circulate the fluid so the moisture takes much longer to get into the lines as it has to migrate through osmosis.
 
Santapez said:
Well, I grabbed a can with fittings/valves awhile back from work for pulling a vacuum on brake fluid.

Was just wondering if there's an actual setup for professional use. Not that I'm buying one. But if you're working on some cup car or something it makes sense to do.
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Brakes are bled and flushed so often on the Cup cars that brake fluid bottles typically aren't sitting around open for too long. We used to do a "quickie bleed" between sessions
 
a bleed isn’t that costly. Just do it and keep her happy 🙂 then when you resell it to get your cayman the new owner will pay a premium 🙂
 
So there WAS this crack in the top dash of 20yr old truck. It was vibing so I put my finger on it to make it stop. Maybe a little too hard. Old and Brittle and perforated. So what is the best plastic (or other) I can cut and glue on top. I don’t want to go through the trouble of disassembling my trim and slapping on a beat eBay part. This tweeter is a game changer…
E6DD20AF-DB34-4CA8-A601-A4C76A604062.jpeg
 
I just added 14oz. of refrigerant to the ac in my Suburban. It barely moved the gauge, but it's putting out cold air again. The reading is just at the bottom of the "good" zone on the gauge. Not sure if I should buy another can to get it higher or just be satisfied that it's cold again. This stuff is expensive.
 
THATmanMANNY said:
So there WAS this crack in the top dash of 20yr old truck. It was vibing so I put my finger on it to make it stop. Maybe a little too hard. Old and Brittle and perforated. So what is the best plastic (or other) I can cut and glue on top. I don’t want to go through the trouble of disassembling my trim and slapping on a beat eBay part. This tweeter is a game changer…
View attachment 215266
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26CCAA1B-296A-40BD-8A24-33E05A0FC043.png
 
Bike N Gear said:
I just added 14oz. of refrigerant to the ac in my Suburban. It barely moved the gauge, but it's putting out cold air again. The reading is just at the bottom of the "good" zone on the gauge. Not sure if I should buy another can to get it higher or just be satisfied that it's cold again. This stuff is expensive.
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14oz is a lot , so I would definitely say you have a leak somewhere in the system.....but if your just trying to get through the summer, you could get a "meat" style thermometer and put it in the center dash duct , add freon , a little bit at a time and check the thermometer. When the temp on the thermometer starts to dip into the 40's .....you should be good
 
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, just over 100K miles on the odometer, threw a ‘cyl 6 misfire’ code twice, months in between. Performances do not seem to be affected, nor is the mileage. I guess I need a tune up. My question is, since this is a coil on plug setup with individual coils for each spark, should I change the coils as well? Or just change #6? They seem inexpensive, I guess if that’s the case do it all at once and deal with the additional PIA or removing the intake that sits conveniently over the heads…
 
which engine is it? the hemis are a piece of cake to cake to change the plugs/coils so i would only change the one in question.

if you have to remove the intake to get to the plugs/coils i would then just change them all to prevent needing to take the intake off again.
 
serviceguy said:
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee, just over 100K miles on the odometer, threw a ‘cyl 6 misfire’ code twice, months in between. Performances do not seem to be affected, nor is the mileage. I guess I need a tune up. My question is, since this is a coil on plug setup with individual coils for each spark, should I change the coils as well? Or just change #6? They seem inexpensive, I guess if that’s the case do it all at once and deal with the additional PIA or removing the intake that sits conveniently over the heads…
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Swap coils with another cylinder and see if the error follows the coil. Unless they are so inexpensive it doesn't matter.
No need to replace them all, but if you do, keep a couple of working ones, jic.

Being #6 might exposed it to more heat??
 
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