29er 1x9 Chainring

Just get a ring with no ramps on it. I also use an mrp 1.x to keep things moving.


30t? Come on....:D
 
correct me if Im wrong but with a 29er wheel using a 30t is like a 34t middle on a 26 or would a 32t be more like the 34t on a 26. Im trying to get some sort of baseline so I can see where to start.
 
jShort said:
For the record, and to demonstrate what a good friend Jim is... I asked for a 32t.

He gave me a 34 and didnt tell me. I really didnt even know until he told me:D
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It's for your own good. Next time your bike is in the shop I'll put an 11-32t cassette on as well:getsome:

-Jim.
 
I had problems trying to set up a 1x9 with a Surly Steel ring. it was too thick for the 9speed chain. If they corrected it with the new ones, great. Otherwise, a good aluminim singlespeed ring is gonna last a while, and realistically, they're not that expensive. I've run a blackspire, WTB(I think) and Salsa ring on my 1x9 with no problems at all. All three are singlespeed specific rings (i.e. no pins or ramps) aluminum rings. For what its worth, I've also run a Salsa singlspeed ring on my cross bike for a 1x10 setup. That worked great as well.
 
I've had good luck with the E.13 guide rings. They are light, strong, and are now available in different colors. And I'm not trying to offend anyone but if you have to run anything less than a 32 you should just stick with a triple until your ready for the 1x9.
 
So when I went 1x9 from full gears I didn't change the length of my chain. I'm putting new drivetrain parts on my HT now and leaving it 1x9. 32T with 32 cassette (instead of 34 cassette this time). Should I shorten the chain?

What I usually do to determine the length of the chain when I have full gears is wrap it around the smallest ring/cog and then I make the chain just long enough so that it does not rub on the cage of the RD. How should I determine the length of my chain needed for 1x9? Same way as I do when I have full gears but use the middle ring?
 
change cranks?

when you guys go to 1x9,do you just remove parts; gears,front deraileur,shifter? you gain a bit of simplicity and lose a little weight but thta weight is not even really spinning(like wheels), the real advantage to 1x9(10) is supposed to be the narrower cranks(Q factor) that's supposed to make a bigger difference than the little bit of weight.
 
lmckee said:
And I'm not trying to offend anyone but if you have to run anything less than a 32 you should just stick with a triple until your ready for the 1x9.
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Not offened but very typical comment from flatlanders :D I run 30t x 11-32 and yes there are a couple hills around here as most flatlanders usually find out. Hell this is only a play bike anyway with bounce front and rear. My real deal is rigid SS 32x18. :getsome:
 
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